The P11 thread

[p400]

I was able to obtain an 1967 RGO45E photo, and a close up of the steering damper ......kinda confirms the chrome plated cup 010808 is facing down.
Also interesting is the black oxide finish on the allen bolts, brake cable rout, cable clip position, and the white spot next the rev counter.
Also note how close the damper knob is to the handlebar cross bar........you cant take the knob on/off unless you loosen/rotate the handle bar out of the way!
This keeps you from loosing the knob, should the knob thread off due to vibration.

 

[elefantrider]

Interesting info on the damper. Will check if mine is all there.

While in this area, I am looking to remove my gauges (one is broken) and relocate the headlamp switch somewhere else.
Simliar to the bike pictured below. Looks like it has the switch mounted on the bucket? Anyone who is running without gauges, how and where did you put the switch?

 

[p400]

found a nice photo from 2003 calendar.

 

[elefantrider]

What type of tach drive cover is on the above bike I posted? Is that cover necessary if the bike is run without gauges?

 

[BillT]

What type of tach drive cover is on the above bike I posted? Is that cover necessary if the bike is run without gauges?

That cover is just a blanking plate, which can be made out of sheet stock. Yes, the cover needs to be on, and with a gasket, as the tach drive on the end of the camshaft pokes into the timing cover through a seal. That seal might leak, and you want to keep dust, dirt and water away from the seal.

 

[p400]

what is the recorded weight of original pistons in a P11 engine ?
Who, what, where would we find this?

 

[Rohan]

A search of this forum will find some discussions of piston weights.
Can't recall offhand if P11 was specifically mentioned.

Note that (some, all ?) Atlas engines originally came with pistons with a dished top,
for low comp 7.5:1, and other versions came too.
So there won't just be one weight of pistons.

There is also discussion of the (poor ?) method that AMC used to balance cranks,
so the crank balance may be all over the shop.

A pair of Atlas replacement pistons here, (JCC Taiwan ?) are approx 340 gms each.

 

[DoubleTrouble]

Hello,
I'm new in the forum. Just bought myself a P11A and somehow the frame number disapeared und all the paint.
Can anybody help me and tell where to look and scratch ?

Many thanks

Pete

 

[p400]

Hello, I'm new in the forum. Just bought myself a P11A and somehow the frame number disapeared und all the paint. Can anybody help me and tell where to look and scratch ? Many thanks Pete

Hi Pete, Welcome to the P11 thread. Here is a pic of a P11A frame number from Ebay listing.

 

[BillT]

P11 and P11A frame numbers will match the sequential number stamped on the crankcase, i.e., 124385 on the frame would match up with P11/124385 on the case. Gearboxes had a separate number, 5 digits and a prefix, such as P11 16022.

When the Ranger 750 came out, it had matching numbers on the frame, case, and gearbox. So a Ranger, such as the last in the series, would be stamped 129145 on the frame, P11/129145 on the crank case, and 129145 S on the gearbox

Frame number is stamped on the left side of the headstock, reading down vertically
Engine number is stamped on the left front corner of the crank case, all P11s starting P11/12xxxx (between 121007 and 129145)
Gearbox number is stamped on the top of the case on P11 and P11A near the edge of the case under the top lug (probably hidden by the oil lines), and on the top rear of the inner cover on Rangers.

 

[DoubleTrouble]

Thank you Guys,
that was quick help. Will have a look if I own a matching numbers model and keep you informed. I was already concerned because gearbox and engine numbers are different but it seems to be normal on a P11A. It shows P11/ and a 5digit number.
Does there exsist a list with which gearbox number was put with which engine/frame ?

Pete

 

[p400]

Ebay posted engine number

 

[BillT]

Thank you Guys,
that was quick help. Will have a look if I own a matching numbers model and keep you informed. I was already concerned because gearbox and engine numbers are different but it seems to be normal on a P11A. It shows P11/ and a 5digit number.
Does there exsist a list with which gearbox number was put with which engine/frame ?

Pete

The NOC has a machine dating service in which they will send you a certificate with the factory records for a small fee. If the gearbox number was recorded in the dispatch log, it will be on that certificate, along with the dispatch date, and possibly who the bike was shipped to. There is no guarantee the gearbox number was recorded in the dispatch records, however. Norton-Matchless were scrambling to push bikes out the door, and paperwork in this period is sometimes sketchy.

My record shows the gearbox, frame, and engine number, that it was dispatched on 15 October, 1968 to Berliner New York, and that the bike is Apple Red.

It also shows the shop engine number for my bike is 2324. Could this mean its the 2324th P11 engine? I don't know, but my bike is among the last 200 P11s, and they built about 2500 total.

 

[DoubleTrouble]

So, here is the result of grinding the paint off the frame: Frame number 1261xx and engine number 1261xx are matching.
Must be one of the 10 last P11A's.
I will contact the NOC to find out more about my new old bike.
What I'm looking for now is an airfilter housing and one side reflector incl. bracket under the fuel tank to make it a complete bike.
Would like to load up some pictures, do I have to be a VIP member then ?

Pete

 

[p400]

Would like to load up some pictures, do I have to be a VIP member then ? Pete

VIP is the best method of communicating graphics, other methods can be very ineffective.
75 mile road test, all well except
1) clear oil vent tubing spitting out Mayo on rear fender tire. probably 50mph avg speed.
2) advance seems to be stuck full adv, kick back at start up, fast idle when warmed up.
3) new or old seat does not have enough/correct padding for my skinny tail.

 

[BillT]

So, here is the result of grinding the paint off the frame: Frame number 1261xx and engine number 1261xx are matching.
Must be one of the 10 last P11A's.
I will contact the NOC to find out more about my new old bike.
What I'm looking for now is an airfilter housing and one side reflector incl. bracket under the fuel tank to make it a complete bike.
Would like to load up some pictures, do I have to be a VIP member then ?

Pete

Last P11A was 126123, then the run of about 2500 regular production 1968 Commandos. Depending on when your bike was sold, it may have had 'Ranger' decals on the oil tank and battery cover. Leftover P11As were labelled as Rangers, applied at the dealer. A dozen or so minor details between late P11As (sometimes referred to as P11A Rangers) and Ranger 750s, such as the seat, skimmed v unskimmed hubs, brake switch in front brake cable, badge on tank v 'Norton' decal, etc.

 

[p400]

I cant seem to find the hardware to fasten a timing disc to a P11 engine drive side. I am not looking at the P11 drive side, but it would seem there are available threads on the end of the rotor to allow a 7-8" disc to be attached? a pointer would be simple. A disc system that could be used with engine running?

 

[BillT]

I cant seem to find the hardware to fasten a timing disc to a P11 engine drive side. I am not looking at the P11 drive side, but it would seem there are available threads on the end of the rotor to allow a 7-8" disc to be attached? a pointer would be simple. A disc system that could be used with engine running?

The rotor has a mark. You could mount a pointer to the inner primary if you wanted to try dynamic timing.

 

[p400]

A timing disc something like this....aren't there enough internal threads useable on the end of the rotor nut?

 

[p400]

Looking into a timing wheel for P11. The P11 engine primary side looks to be the most usable ......and attaching the timing disc to the alt rotor the best. I id not want to undo the alt rotor nut if possible, and there appears to be plenty of thread in the rotor nut to use for a timing wheel.
The threads are 5/8 x 20tpi......not common, but taps and dies (for UNS threads) can be found on EBay.
Here my current thought for adapting wheel to the rotor....with no threads in the timing wheel area, for a tight, concentric, balanced fit.