The P11 thread

[hrwat1]

"That spacer looks far too long. The equence of parts for the rear wheel going from inside the rear brake plate, is as follows.

033031 cover plate spacer inner, 033081 brake plate, 028071 cover plate outer spacer, swinging arm fork lugs. Out side swingarm spacer 033090, Nut 014869. The nut 014869 is 5/8 x 20, spacer 033090 is 5/8 x 1 3/16 x 9/16, 028071 is 5/16 x 1 1/4 x 1 3/4. The speedo drive is a BG5330/267 with a ration of 2/1 before you ask. For the correct cover plate spacer inner ask Walridge Motors for 033031. This is how detailed my P11 book will be. Simple really."

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-cha ... /298180009

Although, it is addressed, at least initially, to the P11A

 

[p400]

I do not have other P11 to compare on this subject.
Here is my spacer set for the brake side.

the flare flanged spacer is on axle, next goes two piece brake plate (not shown), then the 940id grooved spacer.
the other spacer 629id and nut are outside the swing arm.
there are flats on the flare flanged spacer that engage the swing arm slot
Hope this helps

 

[hrwat1]

Thanks - that is exactly what I needed.

Now to be greedy - does anyone have any information on the headlight bracket collars? (top and bottom - although the top looks more like a washer)

Thanks
Huw

 

[p400]

Thanks - that is exactly what I needed.Now to be greedy - does anyone have any information on the headlight bracket collars? (top and bottom - although the top looks more like a washer)Thanks Huw

03-1555 - SPACER - 5/16" x 11/16" x 7/16" H/LAMP
Is what the written records show, typically this is IDxODxT but who knows.
for some reason I did not record dimensions of what HL spacers I had, but I added a thick washer to each side. My existing Lucas HL bolts were larger than 5/16.
Please post some photos of this project

 

[hrwat1]

Thanks - the bit that I am looking for sits above and below the actual brackets themselves (sandwiched between the bracket and the triple clamp) and not a spacer between the headlight and the bracket. Shall have another hunt through the parts book as well.

The advice on the spacers for the rear wheel worked perfectly - all back together and much happier now. I had just got the grooved spacer wrong.

Anyway - pictures of the project below. Tank is painted wrong (that's what happens when you ask for 'as original' without actually giving a photo of a p11!) but I am more focused on getting it going and riding as it is easy enough to repaint.

Huw

As bought

Current

 

[p400]

Wow, looking good ! Lots of work to get this far. Dependable and riding is the goal you are correct.
I love the old seat......might be telling a story of comfortable riding

 

[p400]

I am trying to understand the mounting of the alloy oil tank. 2 Bolts, 2 studs, 4 thin rubber bushings, 4 thick rubber bushings, 8 large diameter steel flat washers, nuts......it appears that some have chosen to safety wire the top bolts, maybe even the lower nuts (cant see).
5/16 mounting bolts/studs.........So here are the 3/8 bore rubber bushings.

I am trying to understand, when the tank is full of oil and subject to several G's when hitting bumps, how this system of mount is going to maintain the oil tanks position.
The frame mount holes are 5/8 , the bolt or stud is 5/16, the bushing bore is 3/8...... it seems something has changed from 1967 thru till today on some of these parts. It would be most suitable if one of the rubber bushings had a step face and provided for aligment.
I believe the steel oil tank mounts suffer the same lack of indexing as it is the same 5/16 studs in 5/8 mount holes. Any one research this?

 

[p400]

here is my crude drawing of these 4 alloy tank mounts

 

[hrwat1]

That looks much more pleasant to mount than the rubber & bracket layout!

Anyway - just in follow up from my queries about headlight bracket spigot ring and bottom spacer/collar. I have sourced them from the UK.
Part numbers 02-1742 and 02-1912.

Huw

 

[bmwtodd]

Folks, I am putting together a P11 for a customer. It was disassembled, so I powdercoated, painted and rebuilt everything for assembly, however, the mounting bolts for the trans, engine and primary cover are confusing for assembly. I do have it for the most part figured out, but need assistance on what goes where. I have parts manuals, but they don't really help a whole lot. If anyone has picture of their bikes during assembly, or any diagrams, that would be helpful....Thanks...Todd Millican, Britts and Beemers BIkewerks, Idaho

 

[hrwat1]

Hi - I used the following post as a guide - seemed to make sense (no picture though)
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthrea ... mber=62780

Quoted below:
"Al;
Concerning spacers on P11;
1)Top rear engine plates to frame-spacer located between timing side plate and frame (2 mounting bolts-2spacers)-width-.150
2)Bottom rr. eng. plate to frame-spacer located between timing side plate and frame (2mounting bolts-2 spacers)-width-.150
3)Top trans. bolt-located between trans. case and timing side plate-width.145
4)Bottom trans. bolt-located between trans. case and timing side plate-width-.15
5)Top front engine plate to frame/crankcase bolt-betweenframe lug and front engine plate timing side-width .150
6)As above,but between plate on drive side and frame lug. width .400
7)Bottom front engine plate-located between frame and drive side engine plate-width-.175
8)Top rear crankcase-located between driveside rear plate and crankcase-width-.350
9)Mid rear crankcase-located between drive side rear plate and crankcase-width-.150
10)Bottom rear crankcase-located between drive side plate and crankcase-width-.160
Hope I didn't miss any! Have 3 of them here and wisely left one assembled for referance.The widths are approximate-from what I can gather they may have varied from bike to bike anyway-at any rate they are within 10 thou. +or-. Hope this helps.-Glenn"

 

[p400]

Folks, I am putting together a P11 for a customer. It was disassembled, so I powdercoated, painted and rebuilt everything for assembly, however, the mounting bolts for the trans, engine and primary cover are confusing for assembly. I do have it for the most part figured out, but need assistance on what goes where. I have parts manuals, but they don't really help a whole lot. If anyone has picture of their bikes during assembly, or any diagrams, that would be helpful....Thanks...Todd Millican, Britts and Beemers BIkewerks, Idaho

Hi Todd, It would be great if you would post your collection of P11 before pictures in a format large enough to view , right here on this forum.
Kind of a "participate in advance" good will gesture for tech advice.
Cheers
Craig
I am requesting a large format on this photo please

 

[p400]

Mocked up and made decision on my positioning of this new, reproduction, $160, P11, alloy rear fender from Baxter Cycle.
I decided I did not want road water being splashed up between the rear fender and seat, so this meant I had to roll it forward about an inch.
I ordered grommets off Ebay to use for rear fender mounting -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130941091241?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I sliced one flange off the grommet, with a new single edge razor blade, to leave a perfect "stepped grommet" aka Norton # 01-1094.
I drilled a couple 1/4 holes at the front mounts of the fender, then redrilled at just under 7/16, to create large grommet holes and bolted the front of the fender in place.
Holding the fender in place, checking position, and marking for the three remaining 7/16 holes.
I used larger than spec inner steel washers.
Came out very nice

New Ohlins, Old Cheng Shin tire.

I need to bend up my own tail/license bracket .....patterns requested

 

[hrwat1]

Good weekend of cursing at the clutch - finally got it right (still a tad heavy but at least it is working).

Next issue, my kickstand - mine isn't right. Installed in FRONT of the footmounts....spring is wrong too. Tried to do original but not 100% as my bracket was sheared off and I had cast by part number.

Thoughts/comments/tips/photos much appreciated.

Huw

 

[grandpaul]

If somebody put a Commando clutch lifter arm inside your inner tranny cover socket, THAT is your problem. the geometry is different. Caused me a lot of gray hair in my beard to figure that one out till somebody in this forum talked about it.

Then, (or otherwise), really careful cable and actuator adjustment from bottom to top will get the best out of it.

 

[BillT]

Next issue, my kickstand - mine isn't right. Installed in FRONT of the footmounts....spring is wrong too. Tried to do original but not 100% as my bracket was sheared off and I had cast by part number.

Thoughts/comments/tips/photos much appreciated.

Huw

The side stand does mount in front of the footrest on the primary side, almost directly below the primary drain screw. The stand is Atlas, but Norton beefed up this stand several times, so if using the late replacement (06-7719), the strengthening ribs on the outer portion of the clamp need to be ground almost completely off to clear the inner primary. The inner side of the stand clamp wedges against the engine plate at just the right angle.

Featherbed stand as sold by Norvil

 

[BillT]

Here's a pic of my Ranger, posted earlier in this thread, which pretty clearly shows the side stand location. The nut visible between the exhaust pipe and the primary, just below the drain plug, is the special shouldered nut on the stand clamp

 

[CanukNortonNut]

Ok I’m taking the engine apart for my 69 ranger and split the cases. What is holding the timing side main bearing from separating from the case? I am not trying to use brute force and ignorance. :? Do you need to preheat the timing side case so the bearing comes out with the outer race? Thanks in advance.
Edit: Ok when all else fails, read the norton Hybird work shop manual. I have to heat the timing side. A little different than the commando. Never mind.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

 

[hrwat1]

Darn - that the last one I wanted to hear! (I had it there originally but the remanufactured bracket seemed just a bit too big for the indent....may have to have another look.
Next important question - which will greatly affect the quality of my next weekend - can it be retrofitted without taking the whole engine etc out again?

Huw

 

[Paul W]

Hi Huw,
Yes you can retrofit the side stand clamp by only removing the outer and inner chain cases so you can slide it around the bottom frame tube and as Bill has stated you will have to fettle the clamp and maybe re-angle the face of the clamp which buts up against the engine plate so that you obtain the right lean on the bike when utilised.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Paul.