Steel Tanks and Liners? Here We go Again....

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My tank had a failed liner and had a bad case of rust (powder rust not scale) where the liner had completely failed. I was able to dissolve the liner with aircraft paint stripper (very bad stuff). I then cleaned it with some simple green and drywall screws to get powder rust out, then hit it wit a heat gun (paint sucked and still does! - so no problem with that) and followed up with acetone to try to get the water out. I used Caswells tank liner to line the inside and after two years I have not had a problem with the liner failing. I do not do anything as far as the tank and what is in it over the winter - so the fuel has time to sit in there.

If I had to do it over again I would have tried using phosphoric acid to remove the rust and lay down a beneficial corrosion layer to protect the steel. It seems to be the least invasive if there is still tank integrity, its a proven method in various industries, and you can always go for the liner down the road if that didn't work as I am not sure how much tank capacity I lost with sealer (more than a pint...)

Hope that helps,
Geoff
 
Mark said:
To clean rust out of the inside of the tank - Electrolysis works.

I would love to see the photos of this tank but none of them will open. I also can't get the photos in the link to come up.

I have seen it work on small parts in other videos. From my limited understanding of the process the interior of a tank is more difficult to pull off. Apparently the process is more effective the closer the electrode is to the area being descaled. It can't make contact with the tank so each side of the tank would need to be done and the electrode would need to be shape to get around the baffles in the tank. Surface area of the electrode and current both affect the length of the process.

I beleive scaling the tank first is recomended. I know the process will remove the rust but does it leave any beneficial corrosion layer?
Click to expand...
 
I didn’t want to make this a post on liners. I am always amazed by the results reported. From what Ive read here the Caswells and Hirsh liners get the most praise.
The Krem and PQR-15 seem to have more negative posts than Caswells and Hirsch. I have never heard about Red Coat. From the marketing claims this looks like everything one would need as it’s flexible and methanol resistant. Its still available although not for our California market. I found a couple posts on its use dating back to the mid 2000 but nothing really recent.

I am hoping to avoid using one of these liners. I would think the success or failure of these products comes down to proper preparation. I would also guess that everyone who had a failure believed they did everything necessary in preping their tank. The bottom line is the interior of a tank is a tough area to analyze and regardless of the products there will always be success and failures associated with these products.

I have also been looking through a couple of the Hot-Rodder’s forums for guidance on rust removal. I figured these guys should know how to deal with rusty metal. Once again lots of products and many approaches to using them. I got to say that one of the well-respected metal men suggests using phosphoric acid, either Navel Jelly or Osprey, exclusively. The process is simple; apply and scrub with an abrasive pad until the metal is bright. Be warned this could take a long time as the process needs to be repeated as many times as it takes. Scale needs to be removed and if the metal is not bright the rust is not gone. It was a twelve page post and I can supply a link if interested.

So, I'll ask again is your unlined tank holding up?
 
I don't have any experience with slosh tank liners. From what I've read on this forum, I believe it's a hit or miss proposition. I think there are other factors affecting the outcome besides preparation. No doubt temperature and humidity play a role, as well. There has to some reason(s) for the mixed results, I don't believe Norton owners are sloppy tank preparers.

I had to replace the in-tank fuel pump on my 1991 BMW K75. This gave me a good chance to inspect the inside of the tank. No rust, as it is aluminum. No corrosion either. This is why I chose to replace my glass tank on my 1972 Combat with an aluminum tank. Only downside I can see for aluminum tanks is they will not hold a magnetic tank bag. Of course, neither will a glass tank.
 
JimC said:
I I don't believe Norton owners are sloppy tank preparers.
I agree! Certainly didn't what to suggest anyone would intentially cut corners. The point I was attempting to make was with all the nooks and crannies in a tank it’s difficult to be thorough when you can't see what you’re doing. I had to replace the in-tank fuel pump on my 1991 BMW K75. This gave me a good chance to inspect the inside of the tank. No rust, as it is aluminum. No corrosion either. This is why I chose to replace my glass tank on my 1972 Combat with an aluminum tank. Only downside I can see for aluminum tanks is they will not hold a magnetic tank bag. Of course, neither will a glass tank.
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I would love to have an alloy tank one day. Currently the only issue I have with an aluminum tank is they are a major investment.
 
DogT said:
Several old husband's tails out there. Latest one I heard to get rid of rust was molasses.
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Molasses and water, diluted 1:5 or 1:10 works extremely well at derusting parts - slow though, takes a while, not instant like phosphoric or HCL. Need to coat the cleaned steel with something extremely quickly though, or it will start to rust again.

P.S. Redcote is extremely popular hereabouts as a fuel tank sealer - all the vintage tin (car) guys use it. Haven't tried it, yet. but looks promising. They do say the red color leaches out with ethanol, but doesn't affect the seal (how can that be ?).

HTH
 
I used the POR15 kit on my Triumph tank six years ago. Used the cleaner, dryed the tank thoroughly with a hair dryer and let it cure for about a month afterwards. It has had E-10 gas in it continously ever since with no indication of any deterioration.
 
Rohan said:
DogT said:
Several old husband's tails out there. Latest one I heard to get rid of rust was molasses.
Click to expand...

Molasses and water, diluted 1:5 or 1:10 works extremely well at derusting parts - slow though, takes a while, not instant like phosphoric or HCL. Neet to coat the cleaned steel with something extremely quickly though, or it will start to rust again.

HTH
Click to expand...

Marvel mystery oil works very well for the coating - i add a 1/2 bottle immediately after rinsing the tank to remove the cleaning agent, then shake it real well, then drain that and add the rest and repeat. I have stored a few tanks with some residual Marvel oil in them for long spells (with petcocks stopped up and saran wrap over gas opening w/ cap down afterwards) - have an original norton tank that i looked at a few months ago in a box in the garage w/ MMO - a year later no rust

plus MMO smells good!
 
I would love to have an alloy tank one day. Currently the only issue I have with an aluminum tank is they are a major investment.
Click to expand...

A few years ago Walridge Motors had some aluminum tanks for $395 CDN. They are a little rough, but with some patience and filler they make a real nice tank. They definitely are NOT suitable for polishing.
 
I have Bill Hirsch's coating in my steel tank for about 10 years now and it's still perfect.
 
First time I have taken a look at the Hirsch line of miracle products. The rust inhibitor looks like a good way to buy some time in between stripping /prep and paint.

When you sealed your tank how did you deal with the petcocks and how far up the filler spout did you go?.
 
T95 said:
First time I have taken a look at the Hirsch line of miracle products. The rust inhibitor looks like a good way to buy some time in between stripping /prep and paint.

When you sealed your tank how did you deal with the petcocks and how far up the filler spout did you go?.
Click to expand...

I just seal them off with tape along with the filler neck. With the filler neck you can mask off as much or as little as you want.

1. After wrapping the tank in plastic wrap to protect the paint, I flushed the inside with an industrial liquid drain cleaner. This removes any surface rust and etches the rest. After a minute, flush the ba-jesus out of it and dry COMPLETELY with hot air.

2. Pour a pint of acetone in and swish it all about to condition. Again, drain it out the petcocks and dry it COMPLETELY.

3. After re-sealing the petcocks, pour in the Hirsch, about half the can, through the filler neck. Seal the filler neck and tumble the tank with your arm to completely coat inside.

4. Remove residual out the petcocks. Be thorough and take your time with this step. If your just haphazardly drained it, the product will continue to shed off the sides and leave a thicker pool on the bottom of the tank.

This coating is thin yet impenetrable. For the glass tank, I omitted step 1.
 
I used two wood dowel-pegs I slowly worked into taps to cut nice sealing wooden threads, then light greased-oiled the pegs and screwed em in far enough to assure they protruded beyond the end of tap threads. Pourws in the sealer and made good and sure a bunch of it got left around the under sides of cap filler neck. Pegs just screwed out and taps back in. Used same pegs on two tanks, one fiber another steel and so far so goodie. I waited till sealer like cold honey to ever so slowly pour out excess then back to turning tank so settle best even layer on till gelled stiff enough to stay put. Most of an hour to be sure and done with it.
Acetone is the safest best solvent to get best surface cleanse, but must thoroughly heat dry out of fiber resin tank first.
 
Johnnymac said:
Whatever you do avoid KREEM. The previous owner coated my tank with that crap and the fuel broke it down and turned it to glue...... nasty stuff. Here's a pic of my tank after I had the Kreem removed......
Steel Tanks and Liners? Here We go Again....
Click to expand...

That's awesome. Can you get the side covers to match?
 
Johnnymac said:
Whatever you do avoid KREEM. The previous owner coated my tank with that crap and the fuel broke it down and turned it to glue...... nasty stuff. Here's a pic of my tank after I had the Kreem removed......
Steel Tanks and Liners? Here We go Again....
Click to expand...


I have Kreem that has failed in my tank. How did you remove it?

Thanks
 
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