One Roller One Basket Here We Go Again!

staticmoves said:

L.A.B. said:

staticmoves said:

Inlets are 32mm

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That doesn't narrow it down by much, as it could still be one of a number of heads unfortunately you haven't answered the question about the combustion chamber size and cylinder barrels? :?

I believe the short stroke head had bigger (41mm) inlet valves with thinner stems.

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I will jump on that this evening. 8)

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Barrels are 73.342mm looks like roughly +.020 from standard

I measured this time
Barrels are 73.3mm
Head inlets are 28.128mm
Head is polished with no stamp markings

Any guesses? Would 28mm inlets put the head at 1969?

staticmoves said:

Would 28mm inlets put the head at 1969?

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The '30'mm (28 inlet) RH1 head continued to be used until 1973.

L.A.B. said:

staticmoves said:

No markings, and it looks like a factory done polish job,

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As the 750 'short-stroke' engine was the 77mm bore 850 engine with a shorter 80mm (80.6mm?) stroke then the short-stroke combustion chambers should be 77mm diameter? The short-stroke engine barrels should also be '850' through-bolt type.

Bernhard said:

all 750 Norton pusrods were hollow

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I'm not sure I agree with that.

Bernhard said:

what is the dia of the inlet port
30 or 32mm

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Or 28.5mm?

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I said 28.128 but likely miss measured and most likely 28.5

staticmoves said:

I said 28.128 but likely miss measured and most likely 28.5

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Close enough (28.5mm is actually 1.122") in which case, it would appear to be a reasonably ordinary RH1 spec. head that's been polished at some time.

http://atlanticgreen.com/nhth.htm

Sorry Ladies and gents that I have not updated this thread lately, but I have been using the valuable time working on the bikes.
So here is an update, and I have gone back and edited some of this thread to correct information posted on my behalf.

Both bikes (a 71 and a 73 ) are completely stripped, and the fasteners are sent out for new cadmium coating.
Here is some of the fasteners after re- plating, and some fresh hand polished aluminum.



So the bike I am rebuilding first is the 73 with the RH6 head. When I stripped this engine it had domed pistons, were domed pistons standard on this engine?



Anyone notice that the PO installed the pistons backwards. Luckily he never started it, the tappits were also installed backwards.

So the 73 now came with painted clock pods. And a shoty paint job at that, so I figure due to the financial mess norton was in at this time, they were trying to save money where possible. And painting is cheaper and quicker than polishing.
So I did what I believe norton would have done if they had the money at the time.





The pod on the left is just stripped and the one on the right is now polished. ( yes my elbows are sore ).

The aluminum was quite rough on the bike, so it all got a comprehensive polishing after a good stripping.
The Primary.





When stripping the bike down the primary looked nearly brand new inside.



Any way I am stoked and moving forward with the project nicely.
I am still on the fence as to weather the project will end up a vintage or cafe racer, or a longish distance tourer.

Not sure if someone else answered you question about frame straightening, but I'll offer my thoughts. As long as the tubing is not kinked, it should be fine to bend it back into position. When custom frames are built there is often a bit of tweaking that is done after weld distortion takes place, so there is no reason that you cannot tweak your frame back into place, provided the bend is not extreme.

Glen

staticmoves said:

Any way I am stoked and moving forward with the project nicely.
I am still on the fence as to weather the project will end up a vintage or cafe racer, or a longish distance tourer.

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I remain amazed on a daily basis at the quality and pride of workmanship displayed on this site.

Personally, I think a nice roadster covers all the bases.

Well done

" am still on the fence as to weather the project will end up a vintage or cafe racer, or a longish distance tourer. " = BOTH ACTUALLY .

indeed ,aiming for perfectionis the way to achieve excellence . :wink:

Nortiboy said:

staticmoves said:

Any way I am stoked and moving forward with the project nicely.
I am still on the fence as to weather the project will end up a vintage or cafe racer, or a longish distance tourer.

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I remain amazed on a daily basis at the quality and pride of workmanship displayed on this site.

Personally, I think a nice roadster covers all the bases.

Well done

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I agree with the roadster. Thing is I already built this roadster last summer.

worntorn said:

Not sure if someone else answered you question about frame straightening, but I'll offer my thoughts. As long as the tubing is not kinked, it should be fine to bend it back into position. When custom frames are built there is often a bit of tweaking that is done after weld distortion takes place, so there is no reason that you cannot tweak your frame back into place, provided the bend is not extreme.

Glen

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Thanks for the reply Glen, I looked into straightening on a jig built for frame straightening and I am looking at around $1,200..... Ouch! I would be better off just buying another frame, or I may look at building a jig and doing it my self.
The warps are not to bad. One of the bikes had been in a accident, so I got the two of them for a good price as the owner did not want to sell the bike separately. So purchasing another frame would be well with in reason.

So what does everyone think of there front drums on there Nortons?
I have not rode a norton front drum, as I have a Lockheed disc on my roadster.
What have you done to make them function better? ( as I imagine the drum is not the greatest )
Or should I lose it, change the slider and install a Brembo.
Or is the function of the drum satisfactory.

Oh, and if you look at the rear frame loop, can anyone shed some light on the apparent support spanning the rear loop under what would be the location for the seat. As my 72 does not have this.

it would seem to me that a previous owner has welded on that support on the rear frame loop, I@m not the expert here but I`ve not seen that before either. As for the front drum, my brother replaced the original cable that had the brake light switch in it, with a straight through cable and it helped him back in the day. There is a site,,,,,,,vintage brakes, I believe,,,,,, that has parts that can help that TLS brake to work pretty darn well. They sure look the part though don`t they.....

cjandme said:

it would seem to me that a previous owner has welded on that support on the rear frame loop, I@m not the expert here but I`ve not seen that before either. As for the front drum, my brother replaced the original cable that had the brake light switch in it, with a straight through cable and it helped him back in the day. There is a site,,,,,,,vintage brakes, I believe,,,,,, that has parts that can help that TLS brake to work pretty darn well. They sure look the part though don`t they.....

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Thanks for the tip, do you by chance have a web address for vintage brakes?

Unless you REALLY like the look of the front drum brake (and some do) ... I recommend a switch to a front disc. Of the eight Nortons I've had, four of them had drum front brakes. And ... they were ALL; VERY inferior to the other four with disc front brakes. Just my 2 cents ...

nortriubuell said:

Unless you REALLY like the look of the front drum brake (and some do) ... I recommend a switch to a front disc. Of the eight Nortons I've had, four of them had drum front brakes. And ... they were ALL; VERY inferior to the other four with disc front brakes. Just my 2 cents ...

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Well thats the kind of 2 cents I am looking for..... keep the change coming.

So I have gotten the 73 RH6 750 project to the point that all of the aluminum that gets polished, is polished.......

I have cleaned and polished one of the carbs last night, and will complete the other tomorrow.........


the engine and gearbox, have been inspected and sorted and I will be ordering the parts for the rebuild of these shortly. The motor looks to be in fine shape internally and externally, and the gearbox does not look as though it has seen much action, though I will be changing all bearings, bushing and seals. The motors cam bushings appear to be a good clearance fit still so I may leave those.

So before rebuilding the engine and gearbox, what is everyones two cents on easily overlooked items of consideration or must do modifications.
( Again the motor is a 73 750 with RH6 head )
Oh and the cam has no oil scribe lines in it and there appears to be a T or maybe an r its hard to tell stamped in-between the lobes. is this a standard cam?

Valves cleaned up well and seats look good, I think I will reuse them.

Cheers.......... 8)

you polish them DOWN the stem . got to look as shiney INSIDE as OUT . Rods , chambers , piston crowns . You polish ALONG the rods too , not across .

Hi,
Congratulations for the work, but could you please tell me how did you Polish the Carburetors??? did you use the same method of aluminum parts??
Ciao.
Piero

pierodn said:

Hi,
Congratulations for the work, but could you please tell me how did you Polish the Carburetors??? did you use the same method of aluminum parts??
Ciao.
Piero

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For carb polishing I just used 0000 steel wool and her Majesty's polish ( Peek polish )