Is this the guy that 'sang' over the end credits of 'Gran Torino?'"A man's gotta know his limitations" --- Clint Eastwood.
Well the shop kind of agreed with my best guess, that it appeared to be a segment of rocker spindle washer (thackery?). Nothing was missing from the rockers when they tore it down. And since no path down to sump for such a part from rocker boxes, best guess is it was dropped in when the block was off at some point in the past, maybe even at the factory floor.Yes, smoke is likely just oil in the honing and should reduce when needed in. Could of course be something else though!
The BIG question is: was the mysterious shrapnel, and it’s source, identified ??
Bad news - may be best if you fix it yourself as I imagine your confidence in them is waning…First test ride: didn't go well!
Heard a rattle from engine after ten minutes of riding three blocks from home. This got louder within a few minutes so I got off and tried to locate the noise, seemed to be from primary case. Stopped engine and push her home (up hill most of the way). Thinking an inner casing bolt had come loose, removed the primary to discover rotor nut freely turning and rotor/sprocket able to move along the crankshaft. The rotor has eaten into the timing scale and basically shredded it in half. Some notching on the rotor face. Alu filings in bottom of chaincase from th scale and rotor face. Serated washer under rotor nut appears to be missing.
Striping clutch apart to redo torque etc.
Im in contact with the workshop and they want to make it right. Likely will just bill them for fresh parts as needed.
Also found a number of fastners around bike not torqued to specs. Engine plates, iso main bolts, fork top nuts. Glad I checked.
I agree. Go through EVERYTHING. Sadly there’s some fasteners you can’t check, but aside from tearing down again, best you can do is check what you can.Bad news - may be best if you fix it yourself as I imagine your confidence in them is waning…
Hopefully a lesson well learned .... Test rides should be conducted " uphill " ... away from home . Much easier return to home .First test ride: didn't go well!
Heard a rattle from engine after ten minutes of riding three blocks from home. This got louder within a few minutes so I got off and tried to locate the noise, seemed to be from primary case. Stopped engine and push her home (up hill most of the way). Thinking an inner casing bolt had come loose, removed the primary to discover rotor nut freely turning and rotor/sprocket able to move along the crankshaft. The rotor has eaten into the timing scale and basically shredded it in half. Some notching on the rotor face. Alu filings in bottom of chaincase from th scale and rotor face. Serated washer under rotor nut appears to be missing.
Striping clutch apart to redo torque etc.
Im in contact with the workshop and they want to make it right. Likely will just bill them for fresh parts as needed.
Also found a number of fastners around bike not torqued to specs. Engine plates, iso main bolts, fork top nuts. Glad I checked.
To clarify, I went through the engine plates, fork fittings, iso's , shock and wheel axle fastners prior to my test ride. The shop had done a test ride before I got it back. Surprised more issues were not picked up then.I agree. Go through EVERYTHING. Sadly there’s some fasteners you can’t check, but aside from tearing down again, best you can do is check what you can.
This is exactly the reason I do not let anyone work on my bikesFirst test ride: didn't go well!
Heard a rattle from engine after ten minutes of riding three blocks from home. This got louder within a few minutes so I got off and tried to locate the noise, seemed to be from primary case. Stopped engine and push her home (up hill most of the way). Thinking an inner casing bolt had come loose, removed the primary to discover rotor nut freely turning and rotor/sprocket able to move along the crankshaft. The rotor has eaten into the timing scale and basically shredded it in half. Some notching on the rotor face. Alu filings in bottom of chaincase from th scale and rotor face. Serated washer under rotor nut appears to be missing.
Striping clutch apart to redo torque etc.
Im in contact with the workshop and they want to make it right. Likely will just bill them for fresh parts as needed.
Also found a number of fastners around bike not torqued to specs. Engine plates, iso main bolts, fork top nuts. Glad I checked.
And that way you can check that the primary case was shimmed correctly and put some Permatex on the mounting bolts.To clarify, I went through the engine plates, fork fittings, iso's , shock and wheel axle fastners prior to my test ride. The shop had done a test ride before I got it back. Surprised more issues were not picked up then.
I've confirmed no serated washer on the rotor nut. I'm planning to remove inner case to check the final drive sprocket nut as they would have removed it to replace the Gearbox mainshaft seal.
Reminds of the time I test rode a Harley up a steep hill; steep enough that throttling down slowed me enough to turn around, only to find I had no brakes.Hopefully a lesson well learned .... Test rides should be conducted " uphill " ... away from home . Much easier return to home .
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When in stock, I sell the AN clutch lock tool (06.1015) for $23.00 plus shipping to forum members. I'm out right now but placing an AN order this week. If you want one email me at marshg@gregmarsh.com. Most AN tools are inexpensive as long as someone is not ripping you off.Not fancy like the ones you can buy for $75 but it did the trick with very little effort. No more standing on the rear brake , gearbox in 4th and tongue hanging out opposite the side of the torque wrench
I agree also replace the mainshaft clutch circlipAnd that way you can check that the primary case was shimmed correctly and put some Permatex on the mounting bolts.
Yes I took the inner fixing bolts off lastnight and they had been locktited (blue) as I had requested that during the work (I've had one come loose in hte past despite new tab washers). I've used loctite on the clutch nut in the past withtabbed washer still in place for good measure. Will do this again.I agree also replace the mainshaft clutch circlip
And if fitted throw the clutch center nut tab washer away and use loctite
And add loctite to the chain case to crankcase bolts
I do have the clutch locking tool (from OldBritts) and know how to use it . I've done the primary case strip down at least 4 or 5 times in the 4 yrs I've had this bike.Hopefully a lesson well learned .... Test rides should be conducted " uphill " ... away from home . Much easier return to home .
That being said , Getting the 70 ft lb torque on the rotor nut can be a PITA without the proper tools .. I just reassembled my primary yesterday and for the first time in 23 years i decided that enough was enough . I bolted 6 old clutch plates together and attached them to a piece of steel flat plate 24" long .. Instant tool.. Not fancy like the ones you can buy for $75 but it did the trick with very little effort. No more standing on the rear brake , gearbox in 4th and tongue hanging out opposite the side of the torque wrench ...... and as glen says Blue Loctite
Good luck with your endeavor .
Which shims? Are you referring to the chaincase stud 06-0376 ?And that way you can check that the primary case was shimmed correctly and put some Permatex on the mounting bolts.