Result of Tri Spark

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My bored & stroked 973cc "Norman Hyde" engined T160 Trident "points" cavity (which I'm certain gets a lot hotter than my Commando' s case in that area) has only got to a touch less than 219°F, 104°C with the thermal indicator applied directly onto the casing at what I consider to be the hottest point.

Result of Tri Spark
 
The triple ignition isn't the all in one component either. That triple unit is far superior to any other EI on the market and I was more than happy to pay the 300+ dollars for it.
 
britbike220 said:
The triple doesn't have the all in one component either.
Click to expand...

I've no argument with that, as the Tri-Spark triple cylinder ignition was designed to be a sequential firing ignition-unlike the wasted spark Classic Twin ignition which replaced the original twin cylinder sequential version Tri-Spark. No doubt Steve Kelly could make an "all-in-one" triple cylinder ignition if he chose to do so, after all, Boyer Bransden did it 30 years ago.
 
L.A.B. said:
I then tried a lower "B" range (160- 230°F) strip which so far, has shown the temperature has not exceeded 171°F. I accept the temperature could go higher than 171°F, but 180-230°F higher seems a lot?
Click to expand...

This isn't very useful unless we know the external air temperature and how much you rode and how fast.
 
Well I am not sure where the discrepancy lies - or if there is one. But I will get the dyno cleared here in the next 2 or 3 weeks and recheck the calibration of my pyrometer and see. I am afraid a nice ride down the road is out of the question after the blizzard the last couple days. Jim
 
swooshdave said:
This isn't very useful unless we know the external air temperature and how much you rode and how fast.
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So where was Jim's ambient temperature and speed data?

However the thermal reading does indicate the MAXIMUM temperature the points cavity reached under a range of what I would describe as normal operating conditions.

I doubt that ultimate speed would be as much of a factor as riding slowly when caught up in traffic-as that's when the engine would be at its hottest.
 
comnoz said:
Well I am not sure where the discrepancy lies - or if there is one.
Click to expand...

Did you attempt to record the air temperature inside the points housing?
 
L.A.B. said:
swooshdave said:
This isn't very useful unless we know the external air temperature and how much you rode and how fast.
Click to expand...

So where was Jim's ambient temperature and speed data?

However the thermal reading does indicate the MAXIMUM temperature the points cavity reached under a range of what I would describe as normal operating conditions.

I doubt that ultimate speed would be as much of a factor as riding slowly when caught up in traffic-as that's when the engine would be at its hottest.
Click to expand...

Normal for you.

Ambient temp in the UK in the summer is going to be significantly different from that of Colorado. Also the altitude difference is also massively different.

Cooling issues were a historically a problem for English vehicles when they encountered the wide variety of environments in the US. I'm sure Frank Damp never took some Nortons to Algeria in the summer to test the bikes. :mrgreen:

I didn't your top speed, rather how fast you were riding. As you said a lower speed would result in higher engine temps.
 
swooshdave said:
Normal for you.
Click to expand...

Yes "normal" for me, obviously, as I have no way of ascertaining whether normal for me is normal for anyone else, however that doesn't stop others from conducting their own temperature checks.
 
No I have not tried to see the air temp. On my bike I have a 4 inch long 3/16 diameter stainless thermocouple in the hole where the wiring would go to the points cavity if I had a pickup in there. It is pushed in to where it is flush with the outer surface of the timing cover and siliconed in place. On my wifes bike I used a tab style thermocouple [looked like a wire terminal] under one of the breaker plate mounting screws.
There is no question I am referring to maximum temps on a hot day. I could see where a lot of the heat came from the proximity of the exhaust.
And I am still running a Hall effect crank sensor on my fuelie bike. I did end up ventilating the primary chaincase as I could get it hot enough to make it quit working when it was sealed. It is a automotive spec hall sensor as used by VW Audi Volvo and many other auto and military uses. It is as high a temp as a Hall sensor gets.
All of my present injection units use a VR sensor. Jim
 
[quote="swooshdave
Cooling issues were a historically a problem for English vehicles when they encountered the wide variety of environments in the US.


It wasn't just the US, it was the whole world, including the UK :idea:
 
Jim,

I would not consider my temperature "testing" to be particularly exhaustive or rigourous. As I did not push my Commando or my T160 to extreme limits in order to get results, I merely used the bikes as I would do normally, so did not purposely try to overheat them, or engineer any "overheat" condition, even so, there does seem to be a large discrepancy between my findings and yours.
 
I have a vented points cover on my 750 that also has the fins on it, The only other thing I was thinking of is some sort of insulating material behind the unit? What would work here guys? Also where could I get the strips to check temp? I have used the Tri-Spark on my 850 for a few years now with no venting and have not had any problems, And this is riding 2 up in some hot places and also Southern Ca traffic that is stop and go as bad as it gets. On the 750 I decided to do the vented deal cause some of you have me losing sleep at night. LOL. But I would like to do some tests on the vented and un vented bikes to see how much of a difference it makes. Thanks guys and ride safe, Chuck.
 
Lab, I haven't really watched the minimum temps on the case to see what the range is but I have on the cylinder head. On a 50 degree day with fog at low elevation I have had trouble getting the cylinder head temp high enough to shut down the cold enrichment system. That was 150 degrees measured at the front center cylinder head bolt. But on a 100 degree day at 6000 feet and 80 mph it was common to see 450 degrees in the same spot. I ended up moving the sensor to a spot at the top rear of the barrels because the temp there stays a lot more consistent with 350 to 450 degrees maximums. And rain won't cool it below 150 degrees.
So maybe with that wide a range in the cylinder head the temp differences in the case may be possible. Jim
 
I'm not sure what is fueling this debate but I have a pretty good idea. New products almost always show some faults in the beggining and require a change here and a change there. The best ideas are ones that evolve through testing in the real world. Usually the people who have their blood sweat tears and money invested in a new product WELCOME data from the real world. In my humble opinion we have some egos at work here that don't want to hear the real world data on the Trispark. Who cares if the unit needs some airflow to prevent a possible failure? So many people are running updated brakes, belt drive primaries, modified isolastics, on and on. Many of these upgrades require modification of the original systems to work and nobody makes a big deal out of it. But for some reason the stock points cover has become the line in the sand for originality. I think enough of the Trispark's performance to retain it even after the headaches it has caused me. I think the people responsible for making the Trispark should be the ones riding around with thermometers hanging out of their bikes. Actions speak louder than words and I am so glad that Matt and crew decided to produce a vented points cover. That really should be that.
 
Commando75 said:
I'm not sure what is fueling this debate but I have a pretty good idea. New products almost always show some faults in the beggining and require a change here and a change there. The best ideas are ones that evolve through testing in the real world. Usually the people who have their blood sweat tears and money invested in a new product WELCOME data from the real world. In my humble opinion we have some egos at work here that don't want to hear the real world data on the Trispark. Who cares if the unit needs some airflow to prevent a possible failure? So many people are running updated brakes, belt drive primaries, modified isolastics, on and on. Many of these upgrades require modification of the original systems to work and nobody makes a big deal out of it. But for some reason the stock points cover has become the line in the sand for originality. I think enough of the Trispark's performance to retain it even after the headaches it has caused me. I think the people responsible for making the Trispark should be the ones riding around with thermometers hanging out of their bikes. Actions speak louder than words and I am so glad that Matt and crew decided to produce a vented points cover. That really should be that.
Click to expand...


Yes that is right, and IMHO the trispark is the best ignition available for a "normal" Commando at this time. If your riding conditions find a problem with temperature then go with a vented cover or raise the stock cover 1/16 inch with some spacers and enjoy the benefits of a nice stable and usable ignition curve. Jim
 
If ignition needs extra cooling or cushioning then its really not up to snuff to sell.
Any and everything made by nature or man can have faults for early failure but don't mean the basic product is defective. I've had the trigger connection go sour, heck everyone will with stock Boyer kit, so after upgrade leads from Greg Fualh I also put in a foam pad. Prior points had an oil soaked rag under cover, which I first took to be a cleaver Brit innovation to keep moisture out, then soon after realized it was to slow the oil seeking its home in the ground.
 
Hobot, I don't think anyone here has said that the Trispark "needs" either additional cooling or cushioning. It is you who have apparently arrived at that conclusion, based upon your above comment.

Some people have "suggested" it.

Just like some people suggest venting a belt drive primary. Others run it totally closed with no issues. I do with mine, in very hot weather.

I have had my Trispark for eight months now. I live in New Mexico and rode almost every day all summer in temps in the upper 90s with no vented points cover.

No issues. None. BIG improvement over any prior ignition I have had. And I know that in the very small chance of a problem, that Matt at CNM would replace it. No worries.
 
pelican said:
How many of you put a piece of foam in like the directions said to do?
Click to expand...

Yes, a 1 inch square piece of foam which is supposed to prevent the wires from vibrating and fracturing.
 
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