Primary Belt Drive Pros and Cons?

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comnoz said:
Cons with the RGM drive are the clutch drum usually needs to have 20 or 30 thousanths removed from the outboard end of the splines so there is enough room between the circlip and the splines to allow the diaphram spring to go slightly concave and apply correct pressure to the pressure plate. If you make the clutch stack thicker so the diaphram spring does not need to go concave you will be rewarded with a heavier than necessary clutch pull and more clutch drag.
Click to expand...

My RGM belt drive has an very light pull on the clutch lever but I have slip in the top gears when you really whack it. I was going to take a look at the stack height again, but would it be better just to skim the drum?
 
Swoosh once ya do get the clutch to hold at hi speed whack ons, ya got to ask yourself, do I really want to accelerate that hard even faster? A good 750 is one of the few factory craft I'd used that gets more powerful pulling the faster ya go. For my own lession Swooh, how was the fit of the round spring in its slot, that is, did it have sloppy easy fitting in slot or had to press it in a bit. I've found when stack height just allows the spring to fit in slot w/o any effort or left over slack its as good as it gets in lever effort and holding full power in any gear. Maybe RGM key ingredient is their pressure plate too?
 
swooshdave said:
comnoz said:
Cons with the RGM drive are the clutch drum usually needs to have 20 or 30 thousanths removed from the outboard end of the splines so there is enough room between the circlip and the splines to allow the diaphram spring to go slightly concave and apply correct pressure to the pressure plate. If you make the clutch stack thicker so the diaphram spring does not need to go concave you will be rewarded with a heavier than necessary clutch pull and more clutch drag.
Click to expand...

My RGM belt drive has an very light pull on the clutch lever but I have slip in the top gears when you really whack it. I was going to take a look at the stack height again, but would it be better just to skim the drum?
Click to expand...

Yes, you are likely suffering from the diaphram not being able to go concave. Remove the .020 from the splines and I bet it will not slip again. Jim
 
I reckon I must have been lucky, I think it was in 1994 I fitted an RGM belt on my Mk3 and it's never needed adjusting, never slips or drags and has a very light action :D

Cash
 
cash said:
I reckon I must have been lucky, I think it was in 1994 I fitted an RGM belt on my Mk3 and it's never needed adjusting, never slips or drags and has a very light action :D

Cash
Click to expand...

Maybe you should have bought a couple lottery tickets at the same time.

Actually some of them seem to work just fine. I have also seen some diaphram springs that were thinner than others which would solve the problem also. Jim
 
comnoz said:
swooshdave said:
comnoz said:
Cons with the RGM drive are the clutch drum usually needs to have 20 or 30 thousanths removed from the outboard end of the splines so there is enough room between the circlip and the splines to allow the diaphram spring to go slightly concave and apply correct pressure to the pressure plate. If you make the clutch stack thicker so the diaphram spring does not need to go concave you will be rewarded with a heavier than necessary clutch pull and more clutch drag.
Click to expand...

My RGM belt drive has an very light pull on the clutch lever but I have slip in the top gears when you really whack it. I was going to take a look at the stack height again, but would it be better just to skim the drum?
Click to expand...

Yes, you are likely suffering from the diaphram not being able to go concave. Remove the .020 from the splines and I bet it will not slip again. Jim
Click to expand...

I'll take a look at it this winter. Thanks!
 
I have really enjoyed this thread, thanks everyone.

Dave
69S
 
I have also enjoyed this, as I wrote he intial post, looks like a RGM it is for me, hand carried from the UK to China, then on from there with me as none available in NZ (at this stage) unless you other Kiwi's on the forum know any different.
Thanks to all Mike
 
Brooking 850 said:
I have also enjoyed this, as I wrote he intial post, looks like a RGM it is for me, hand carried from the UK to China, then on from there with me as none available in NZ (at this stage) unless you other Kiwi's on the forum know any different.
Thanks to all Mike
Click to expand...
FWIW. This is the time to make sure the clutch center is up to snuff (not grooved) and to validate the clutch pack height. All will run well if these are given attention.
 
Ok thanks for the FWIW, will check all when I fit the RGM and keep you all posted, it might not be for a few months. Original clutch is behaving well at present.
Regards Mike
 
hi Mike.
Bob Newby is the man on belt drives for Nortons. Have yet to fit one om my 850 Commando, but fitted one of his to my '500 Inter'' Norton, and its fantastic. No oil leaks,and is smooth as silk. Dead easy to fit, so should be the same on the Commando.
Regards
pipknight
 
So I have a new RGM kit already for the conversion this approaching winter. Sounds like I must change the gearbox sprocket as well to obtain the same gearing as present with my 21 tooth. So what should I change to , a 19 or say 20 to obtain similar gearing ratio ? Thanks ,Peter.
 
Torontonian said:
So I have a new RGM kit already for the conversion this approaching winter. Sounds like I must change the gearbox sprocket as well to obtain the same gearing as present with my 21 tooth. So what should I change to , a 19 or say 20 to obtain similar gearing ratio ? Thanks ,Peter.
Click to expand...

20T.
If you liked the 21T with the stock setup, You will love the 20t on the RGM.
72 mph at 4000 rpm. A very smooth cruise at 80. Nice pull down below. Very comfy 3rd round the town. Trust me.
Peter
 
I can not recommend spending much time in lower gears as the sleeve bushes don't get lubes when spinning. A geared up C'do is a more pleasant useful C'do to me too. It allow using up 2nd gear bushes in hi rpm torque leaps to piss off the hot sports bikers.
 
Torontonian said:
20 tooth it shall be with no venting to outside ,enclosed.
Click to expand...
Good luck with that "no Venting" thing. I won't say it's not possible, just uncommon. You may want to keep an eye out for a donor cover.
 
should NOT be an issue. I have 30,000 miles on mine, Florida summers, 650 mile days in summer heat, and a lot of just riding with NO troubles what so ever.

pvisseriii said:
Good luck with that "no Venting" thing. I won't say it's not possible, just uncommon. You may want to keep an eye out for a donor cover.
Click to expand...
 
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