Heavy Vibration Issue

My clutch hub center is all used up.
Not the splines, but the shoulder that accepts the bearing. BIG wobble.
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I’ll have a look but it’s not that sort of vibration, more like the feeling you get if you have a tight spot on a chain if you follow what I mean.

Dave
If the problem is with the rear chain the vibrations will follow road speed, if its the gearbox/primary drive the vibes will follow engine revs, I would have thought.
 
If the problem is with the rear chain the vibrations will follow road speed, if its the gearbox/primary drive the vibes will follow engine revs, I would have thought.
Sorry I was trying to describe the type of vibration as in how it felt rather than the frequency.

Dave
 
Are they known to crack?
It's not uncommon for them to break at the thin area just above the right side lower engine mount bolt, particularly on race bikes. The usual cure is to weld it and add a reinforcing piece of some sort. In this picture of my cradle "collection" you can see three cradles that broke there and were reinforced by their owners. I've only had one break there, but I repaired it and it is still good after many years of racing. I don't know if they also break in other areas, but I haven't seen it happen.

Heavy Vibration Issue


Ken
 
It's not uncommon for them to break at the thin area just above the right side lower engine mount bolt, particularly on race bikes. The usual cure is to weld it and add a reinforcing piece of some sort. In this picture of my cradle "collection" you can see three cradles that broke there and were reinforced by their owners. I've only had one break there, but I repaired it and it is still good after many years of racing. I don't know if they also break in other areas, but I haven't seen it happen.

View attachment 110316

Ken
Wow
Thanks for sharing
 
It's not uncommon for them to break at the thin area just above the right side lower engine mount bolt, particularly on race bikes. The usual cure is to weld it and add a reinforcing piece of some sort. In this picture of my cradle "collection" you can see three cradles that broke there and were reinforced by their owners. I've only had one break there, but I repaired it and it is still good after many years of racing. I don't know if they also break in other areas, but I haven't seen it happen.

View attachment 110316

Ken
You’re quite the collector Ken !

Very interesting picture, personally I don’t quite see how those strengthening mods actually strengthen the weak point ?

My hypothesis is that the cradles only break when another factor is added, ie loose engine to cradle fasteners.
 
Sorry I was trying to describe the type of vibration as in how it felt rather than the frequency.

Dave
cash is right, probing for more detailed description.

" I was getting a really heavy vibration through the foot pegs this was present in all gears"

Primary cover hitting the frame would be very low frequency.

Final drive chain lower but not as solid, nor a consistant.

Clutch basket is higher, but, in my experience, can come & go, dependant on how the clutch plates are randomly off center when the stack is clamped. (Clutch engaged)
 
You’re quite the collector Ken !

Very interesting picture, personally I don’t quite see how those strengthening mods actually strengthen the weak point ?

My hypothesis is that the cradles only break when another factor is added, ie loose engine to cradle fasteners.
They support the area of weakness by reducing the amplitude of the bending, this helps reduce risk of a fatigue crack despite not being directly at the thinnest point
 
They support the area of weakness by reducing the amplitude of the bending, this helps reduce risk of a fatigue crack despite not being directly at the thinnest point
Roger that.

But doesn’t it also create a potential weak spot between the stiffener and adjacent thin area ?
 
Roger that.

But doesn’t it also create a potential weak spot between the stiffener and adjacent thin area ?
As you suggest just welding a gusset where something has broken can just move the weak point to the edge of the gusset for a new cracking point. But in this case the extra metal is full height and supporting not just the top thin section but also the middle and bottom slightly stronger bolting points. By shortening the sections subject to bending it will probably be changing the resonance frequency out of a critical range as well.
 
Belt drive...a solution for which there is no problem. ;)


Yeah, even though CNW, which I have a huge respect for and have purchased many parts from, includes it as part of their E-start kit.
I agree
But I went to belt purely because of the difference in weight
There's nothing wrong with the standard setup
 
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