Fast Eddie
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- Joined
- Oct 4, 2013
- Messages
- 21,621
You’d be changing the gearing a LOT by doing that.Hi, just going to hijack this post as it seems most relevant to my current issue, hope that's OK.
I have had pretty much the exact same failure after a full rebuild. I suspect an adjustment/alignment issue was the problem. However, I also damaged my drive pulley with the wires. As far as I can tell my kit is an early RGM one.
My drive pulley is 28T and clutch pulley is 55T, both 10mm pitch. The drive pulley is 32mm width. The only RGM one that lines up is shown as for racing singles. The new version from RGM that I can see best matches is the "alternator twin" being 27T and 30mm.
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Question is, have I assumed correctly and provided I adjust and shim properly. Will this new 30mm pulley work OK with the original clutch pulley (undamaged) I assume this is 32mm also (I will measure later to confirm).
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And how do you know for sure that the clutch drum will be a compatible tooth profile?
Given the relative low cost of a new belt kit vs what you’re gonna spend anyway, I’d strongly suggest buying a new belt kit.
That opens up your choices RGM, Norvil, Steve Maney, cNw all do kits.
A common failure mode with belts is running them too tight. As things heat up they get even tighter till they fail. You really do have to believe and follow the instructions !
When fitting, always turn the engine over a lot to see what the belt is doing. And check it frequently in the first few rides (take the cover off and have a look see).
The debate about double adjusters is inconclusive. I use ‘em, but many run very successfully with a stock single adjuster. So that’s most likely not your root cause here.