OEM Front Brake Upgrades For Best Performance

Status
Not open for further replies.

Dan1950

1974 MK II Roadster
VIP MEMBER
Joined
Aug 19, 2021
Messages
1,451
Country flag
I want to keep my nearly pristine MK II survivor as close to stock appearance as possible yet get maximum performance from the from the OEM front brake. I know it's not going to be up to modern standards but neither am I.

I just ordered a braided SS front brake hose from Walbridge.

I have the following parts in my shopping carts awaiting the final list once I break down my gearbox.





Any more input would be appreciated.
 
Not much scope within the parameters you set yourself. The only downside is the small size of the caliper so a series of corners down a hill could get you running out of brakes at the bottom of a hill from heat build up, but that means fitting a non original caliper.
 
You are on the right track with the stock-looking setup.

Like Kommando said, the next step is changing the caliper to something with better piston area / higher friction code linings. After that is a larger diameter rotor.

FYI - brakes are a bit of a passion for me - I spent 15 years as a brake engineer on military combat vehicles.
 
Not much scope within the parameters you set yourself. The only downside is the small size of the caliper so a series of corners down a hill could get you running out of brakes at the bottom of a hill from heat build up, but that means fitting a non original caliper.
I could live with a "non original caliper" but definitely want to retain the OEM switch gear and MC..
 
You are on the right track with the stock-looking setup.

Like Kommando said, the next step is changing the caliper to something with better piston area / higher friction code linings. After that is a larger diameter rotor.
Suggestions?
 
madass140 is

www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com, then click on the "online store" tab at the left side of page

Nice thing about Don is he will put together a bolt on setup that does not require any chasing around after parts to finish up the job.
 
madass140 is

www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com, then click on the "online store" tab at the left side of page

Nice thing about Don is he will put together a bolt on setup that does not require any chasing around after parts to finish up the job.
This is tempting.

 
I can’t remember how I got in touch with madass but I got his kit. See avatar. It is brilliant and fits perfectly and keeps the switchgear.
I also got the an m/c etc and they are all stored away so original is still possible.
 
Did not need the hammer!
 

Attachments

  • OEM Front Brake Upgrades For Best Performance
    7CBC789F-2852-489B-B563-102EEC6CAAA4.jpeg
    506.1 KB · Views: 186
  • OEM Front Brake Upgrades For Best Performance
    00123B90-46C1-4322-84B4-351084314AAE.jpeg
    584.4 KB · Views: 184
If you are trying to keep a stock appearance, the braided hose and 13 mm master cylinder will be make a big difference.
Try it and you will probably like it, depending on what you are used to, and how you use your bike.

This group seems biased to big brake improvements, and there is no limit to where the advice will take you. Some of the more extreme front brake solutions look like they belong on a modern Japanese bike. IMHO.
 
Last edited:
Can't get the online store to enable.
His store has had some issues in the past and doesn't get updated with his latest offerings. He does frequent this forum and You can try to reach Don via the "Start a conversation" option of this forum.
I bought his re-sleeving kit for my original MC. Has worked very nicely. I'd say my brake is about 80% as good as my modern Bonneville. That's with original caliper (new seals/pistons) and Fedoro Platinum pads. He also has a modern MC that bolts up to stock switch gear if you want to keep original caliper/disk. Reports of his full upgrade caliper/disk (single) I have heard are top notch.

He's also go a popular oil pressure warning switch fitting to go on the pump output pipe fittings; A dual carb throttle gantry to allow a single throttle cable to grip, no more splitter box. His single piece rear axle seems like a nice upgrade....as is the modern cush-drive hub.
 
His store has had some issues in the past and doesn't get updated with his latest offerings. He does frequent this forum and You can try to reach Don via the "Start a conversation" option of this forum.
I bought his re-sleeving kit for my original MC. Has worked very nicely. I'd say my brake is about 80% as good as my modern Bonneville. That's with original caliper (new seals/pistons) and Fedoro Platinum pads. He also has a modern MC that bolts up to stock switch gear if you want to keep original caliper/disk. Reports of his full upgrade caliper/disk (single) I have heard are top notch.

He's also go a popular oil pressure warning switch fitting to go on the pump output pipe fittings; A dual carb throttle gantry to allow a single throttle cable to grip, no more splitter box. His single piece rear axle seems like a nice upgrade....as is the modern cush-drive hub.
I have his oil pressure sending unit. I got it from a Greg Marsh. I'm going to add a red indicator light between the flasher indicator and the light switch on the headlight nacelle.
 
If you are trying to keep a stock appearance, the braided hose and 13 mm master cylinder will be make a big difference.
Try it and you will probably like it, depending on what you are used to, and how you use your bike.

This group seems biased to big brake improvements, and there is no limit to where the advice will take you. Some of the more extreme front brake solutions look like they belong on a modern Japanese bike. IMHO.
Given the feedback and after more consideration, I feel that retaining as much OEM components as possible has merit in case I need to source repair parts while on the road. I always adhered to that with my previous bike that I traveled on quite extensively. I think I will opt for my original plan and upgrade the MC, hose, pads and caliper improvements.

I might consider a less clunky looking disk if one is available to bolt up to the OEM set-up.

Thanks everyone.
 
If you have a set of dividers and access to a drill press, you could drill it.
Costs nothing and it improves the look.
Some folks will warn you against this: "cast iron is brittle, cracks, and ends in death".
Yet many people have done it over the years and lived to tell the story.
Google the threads. It's all there.
 
What's your life worth, keeping your Norton as much as stock or having a good brake set up that will stop you when you really need it, I have been down this road in the 46 years of owning my Norton and a few rebuilds of the stock front brakes and one day it will let you down when you really need it, for me it was 2x in a short period of time and the last time I got injured, that was it for me and while recovering a full front brake upgrade to modern brake system, was the best thing I ever done to my frontend and in fact it looks better than stock and stops as good as my modern Triumph Thruxton, I was lucky as mine let me down at a slow speed, could have been worst if I was going faster and it let me down without warning, spend the money and do it right and a full upgrade is the best that you can do, my Norton is worth it as well my life, don't do 1/2 a job.

Ashley
 
I want to keep my nearly pristine MK II survivor as close to stock appearance as possible yet get maximum performance from the from the OEM front brake. I know it's not going to be up to modern standards but neither am I.

I just ordered a braided SS front brake hose from Walbridge.

I have the following parts in my shopping carts awaiting the final list once I break down my gearbox.





Any more input would be appreciated.
Thankyou for the reminder….when I assembled the braided stainless rocker feed pipe I forgot to make sure it didn’t touch the gas tank. That stuff is like a hacksaw when rubbing from engine vibration.
 
Thankyou for the reminder….when I assembled the braided stainless rocker feed pipe I forgot to make sure it didn’t touch the gas tank. That stuff is like a hacksaw when rubbing from engine vibration.
Mine braided brake line has a clear plastic sheathing around the mesh. Are rocker lines exposed mesh?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top