New turn signals, No light?

So I have installed new lucas turn indicators a while back, ( ground up resto ) it is a new wiring loom ( fits great by the way, ), and I can turn ignition on and the horn works, lights work ( though the high beam only comes on when you hold one of the buttons on the right hand cluster?, low beam operates fine by toggle switch on cluster ), break lights work. How ever my turn indicators wont even light up ( new flasher unit installed to. ).

Now I have read in a few of the threads that some members actually run a graound from each indicator to a grounding point. I thought it was kind of strange that there was only one green wire comming from each unit, considering that the case is chromed plastic.

anyone else run into this issue? or have any comments or advice?

thanks in advance 8)

Ground up resto - does that include painting the frame?

The turn signals get their ground through attachment to the taillight housing.

Either, clean off enough paint to get a ground, or run a separate ground. I am running from one of the barrel bolts holding the bulb holder in place to a 1/2" ring connector that fits the stem holding the tail light to the housing.

Ugh, signals conduct to Earth via the chrome layer on the plastic then the stems metal bolted to bared metal bike parts. Can take short wire and hand Earth to see if that fires a winker by hand holding. I've gotten good relief smacking the snot out of my dead ones back to life for a ride or two, then WHACK again for more relief for a ride with blinkers. This method was after all others failed, short of separate Earth lead added. Plastic tends to wear off under the tiny lamp screw mounts.

lbridges said:

Ground up resto - does that include painting the frame?

The turn signals get their ground through attachment to the taillight housing.

Either, clean off enough paint to get a ground, or run a separate ground. I am running from one of the barrel bolts holding the bulb holder in place to a 1/2" ring connector that fits the stem holding the tail light to the housing.

Click to expand...

Yes i did paint it. Instead if scuffing off paint, I will try the run extra ground wire I think.

Thank you for the response. Though it is 43 celcius with the humidity today. I think I may just relax on the couch today.

Ok I got the turn indicators working today. Looks like I did not scrape away enough paint on the tail light bracket.

Also looks like I may have to further inspect the switch cluster innerds, they are not functioning as well as I would like.
I tested the cluster with a jumper wire, and the signals function well, I think I may need to dissasemble and clean up the contacts and inspect any springs.
Hopefully it will be working well by the end of the week.

Anyone use or know of rebuild kits for the switch cluster units? Original Lucas type.

Static,

If you care that an electrical circuit works reliably, run a dedicated ground wire to it. I treat the frame, and certainly the aluminized plastic of the turn signal stalks, as redundant grounds and have never had an electrical failure. A skinny 20 gauge wire will easily handle the intermitant turn signal lamp current needs.

staticmoves said:

...
Anyone use or know of rebuild kits for the switch cluster units? Original Lucas type.

Click to expand...

I looked around - a lot - and found nothing. I think your choices are to either take them apart (carefully) and clean them, or replace them.

I don't know if Sparx makes a replacement switch cluster that looks like your or not, but they make several that are a very close approximation (example: on the MK3 the only external difference is the Sparx kill switch works by pushing it to the left only while the OEM switch works by pushing either right or left)

rick in seattle said:

Static,

If you care that an electrical circuit works reliably, run a dedicated ground wire to it. I treat the frame, and certainly the aluminized plastic of the turn signal stalks, as redundant grounds and have never had an electrical failure. A skinny 20 gauge wire will easily handle the intermitant turn signal lamp current needs.

Click to expand...

Yes after reading other posts on the subject, I plan on running dedicated grounds as I could imagine what would happen to the original grounding routes after some rust and oxidation.
just making sure they fired properly first.

lbridges said:

staticmoves said:

...
Anyone use or know of rebuild kits for the switch cluster units? Original Lucas type.

Click to expand...

I looked around - a lot - and found nothing. I think your choices are to either take them apart (carefully) and clean them, or replace them.

I don't know if Sparx makes a replacement switch cluster that looks like your or not, but they make several that are a very close approximation (example: on the MK3 the only external difference is the Sparx kill switch works by pushing it to the left only while the OEM switch works by pushing either right or left)

Click to expand...

+1 I had a broken red pushbutton. It just cracked in half one day. I was lucky to find both sides. I checked for a few weeks to see if I could find a replacement. Nothing. I super glued it back together and so far so good. Most of the responses I got from places that sell parts, is that to find the individual internals, you may need to find a semi complete unit and/or improvise or buy a replacement.

Good Luck.

You can find complete switch buttons and springs from Emgo for very reasonable prices.

Paul