New Project, Need some help with everything

This may also help: http://www.tioc.org/boyer/boyertest.htm

ere is my photos so far, every day I will try to post new ones




























Thanks

no spark?

I see in the bottom pictures you now have a battery in the tray

Do you have it hooked up?

The correct way, as in this is a POSITIVE ground motorcycle? positive battery terminal goes to frame ground

Got a good not blown fuse in the NEGATIVE (live power) wire coming off the negative battery terminal?

You know you are not going to get a spark at this point because your boyar is not all hooked up and timed yet?

hi 1up3down,

I did connect the battery before trying it. The red to the +ve and then to the frame. Does the stator need to be properly calibrated to get a spark? or will it give a spark just not one that will fire with the correct timing?

Thanks

seandean said:

Does the stator need to be properly calibrated to get a spark? or will it give a spark just not one that will fire with the correct timing?

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Even if the pickup rotor/stator setting was way out of adjustment it would not stop the ignition from producing sparks.
Once you have established that the system does work (by testing as I described or as described here: http://www.tioc.org/boyer/boyertest11.htm) you can then move on to check the ignition timing.

Presumably, you have (or have access to) a strobe lamp? As you won't be able to set the ignition timing accurately without one.

Move that nice Interstate gastank to where the seat is and put it into a cardboard box as a minimum, put the seat where the tank was.Or up on a shelf away from those lawn tools etc. that fall when you bump into them and....%$#@*&^(%)_= my tank ! My gauges!

seandean said:

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I did notice those HT leads look as if they have non-resistor plug caps, or are the plugs resistor type? Because the Boyer Micro-Digital ignition requires either 5 kOhm plug caps or resistor "R" plugs to be fitted for it to function properly.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00032_.pdf

WITH THIS SYSTEM SUPPRESSED SPARK PLUG CAPS OF 5000 OHM MUST BE FITTED AS RADIO FREQUENCY
ENERGY CAN CORRUPT THE MICROPROCESSOR AND PRODUCE VERY BAD RUNNING.

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Hi L.A.B
I tested he coils, ignition box and battery and it sparked repeatedly as you said, so I know that the coils, ignition box and the battery are fine. Thanks for your insight, It felt great to finally get sparks.

So now I need to make sure the powerbox works. I have connected it as the diagram describes, but mine also has a charging light (white wire). I was wondering where I need to connect this to. I have a red light in the headlight (which I think is the charging light) with a white and a white/brown connected to it. So should I connect the powerbox to a white wire or a white/brown wire?

Cheers. Sean

seandean said:

So now I need to make sure the powerbox works. I have connected it as the diagram describes, but mine also has a charging light (white wire). I was wondering where I need to connect this to. I have a red light in the headlight (which I think is the charging light) with a white and a white/brown connected to it. So should I connect the powerbox to a white wire or a white/brown wire?

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The Power box White wire should be connected to the White/Brown wire from the charge warning lamp.
http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/PBOX166.pdf (positive earth system wiring diagram)

[Edit: .....and the White wire from the charge warning lamp needs to be connected to the harness White]

L.A.B. said:

seandean said:

Do I need to connect the handlebar clusters and the brake switches to get it to spark?

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No. Not at this time.

seandean said:

What essential components need to be connected to get it to spark. I really need a step by step guide

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Check the battery is fully charged.

Connect the White wire from the Boyer Micro-Digital box to battery negative,

Connect the Red Boyer box wire to battery positive.

Also connect number 2 ignition coil positive terminal to battery positive.

Refer to the Boyer diagram if you need to: http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00032_.pdf

The spark plug bodies must also have a connection to battery positive. (If you do that by laying the plugs on the cylinder head you must also make sure there is electrical continuity between the engine and battery positive. Don't rely on the Isolastics as they make poor electrical conductors)

Then, repeatedly touch the Boyer box Black/White and Black/Yellow wire connectors together, as that should produce sparks at the plugs? If so, then at least we know the box/coils/plugs work.

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Regarding the switch clusters, doesn't he need a closed kill switch in line or at leeast a jumper on that circuit?

850cmndo said:

Regarding the switch clusters, doesn't he need a closed kill switch in line or at leeast a jumper on that circuit?

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Yes, now seandean has finally established that the box does work (by test wiring the Boyer box directly to the battery), he will now have to reinstall it and make the necessary connections to the ignition system and handlebar switch if he intends to keep the kill button.

Hi,
So I have been looking at the clusters. The one that I think is the left (the normally wired one) has the kill switch on it, but the manual indicates that it should be the right one. This does not bother me, but my other one has five wires out of it. I have taken a picture of it
I suspect that the person that wired it did not have the correct colours, and just used what was at hand. I guess that the colours are as follows:

My cluster Colours on wiring digram
Yellow/Green - Blue/White
Red - Blue/Red
Blue - Blue
Purple - Purple/Black
Black - White

I only guessed these as It seemed the most logical way of doing it, but I have taken a picture to see if anyone knows if I am correct by looking at the way they have been wired.

Thanks a lot.

seandean said:

So I have been looking at the clusters. The one that I think is the left (the normally wired one) has the kill switch on it, but the manual indicates that it should be the right one.

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The switch units were often swapped over by owners or dealers, and the factory eventually fitted them the opposite way around to how they are shown on the wiring diagrams. Unfortunately, I don't have that particular switch (I have a Mk3 which has different switch units) so I can't say if you have identified the colours correctly. By checking the continuity between the wires as you operate each switch it shouldn't be too difficult to work out which wire is which, and I'm gesssing that's what you've already done.

Cleaning and checking they touch square , with the contacts in there , like C.B. points helps the suckers .
A Relay on the Headlamp Beams reduces the current through the itty bitty contacts too .

One side its possible to throw a wire across , top & Bottom .So CENTRE the Ignitions live , up OR down OFF .

The Current goes throgh the Metal ! :lol: for figureing coustom configureations . :|