Ignition & Fusebox
- Thread starter rbt11548
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rbt11548 said:
I've used VWP quite a bit in the past, although some of their stuff is a bit cheap 'n' cheerful! I'd avoid their white multi-pin connectors for instance, as they are cheap junk in my opinion.
I've also used Auto Electrical Supplies: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/
L.A.B. said:
Thanks I am going to need some multi connectors as I'm going to run an unbroken a full length from about the battery box area to headstock/ lamp area which , hopefully will do away with the rats nest under the tank, just fitted a Dave Taylor headsteady and want to keep area as neat as possible. Will check link for stuff.
I have wired my power box with warning light as per Boyer's instructions;
Yellow to alternator
Red to earth
Black to brown and blue wire from battery connecting it to the wire after the fuse,( it was the old rectifier connection)
Red & white to earth
White to warning bulb
Yellow to alternator
Red to earth
Black to brown and blue wire from battery connecting it to the wire after the fuse,( it was the old rectifier connection)
Red & white to earth
White to warning bulb
L.A.B. said:
Ok L.A.B. let me get this clear..., told you it would take me a while!!!!
All the items that are fitted with a relay are fed straight from the battery, and although they are still fed through the "ON" position wire,( white), the white wire is only used to feed the switch which would use a very low power to energise the coil to make the relay switch operate, therefore allowing the relay to take the strain of full battery power and not the switches, and as the wirings and connections in the relays are not as "heavy" as the switch's the relays use less power allowing more to reach the item...
As you say my dip & main re fed directly from the battery, but if I switch the ignition switch onto "lights" would I not get a drop when I move it to head from pilot?
I'm sorry if I seem a bit thick on this but I like to know how things operate so if anything goes wrong I can fix it.
Also thanks very much for your time and help!
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rbt11548 said:
No, - as pilot/tail/instruments (let's call it PTI) work from a completely different (Green/Brown) circuit.
Remember, the MkIII headlamp switch only turns the headlamp ON or OFF, there's no connection to the PTI circuit at the headlamp switch (see the MkIII wiring diagram).
When headlamp OFF is selected, you are not turning the pilot ON, or vice versa, that's why the Green/Brown wire connection you drew in originally was wrong. If there were such a connection between the two circuits, then the headlamp selector switch would be live at the PARKING LIGHTS (Ign Sw.) position. That's why the circuit that serves as both parking lights and PTI running lights has to be separate from the headlamp circuit.
L.A.B. said:
Brain picking time.. when wiring in a 5 terminal relay for my lights, I take it terminal 30, power,( above list), can be wired straight to the Brown /blue wire and I don't need to put in another relay on the r/hand bar headlight switch?
Stripped down the wiring on the bike, there are wires upon wires, some redundant before I even start, but there will be a wire cull!!!!
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rbt11548 said:
Unfortunately not, if the relay was wired to the Brown/Blue, then you wouldn't be able to turn the headlight off, even with the ignition switched off.
Ron L highlighted the downside of that setup previously (on page 2).
Ron L said:
Or, an additional headlight switch relay could always be used to feed the changeover relay? So either way, you'd end up using two relays.
Ron L said:
L.A.B. said:
Sorry don't know what happened there my post didn't include everything.
I'm totally lost with this now and close to giving up on the relays to the headlights
Why on earth, (no pun intended), did Norton put in the r/h side head/l switch? why did they not just use the key switch to turn on lights then the L/h bar head / dip switch.
What is the best way to do this ? the way I had in my diagram?
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp19 ... IRING2.jpg
which still used the brown & blue wire as the main feed,
or put a relay in using the blue wire from the r/h bar head switch.
Is there a diagram anywhere for this?
Thanks
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rbt11548 said:
It is a simple way to do it, and altering the switching wouldn't make it any simpler, - quite the contrary, the result would either be a more complex ignition switch with more wires and internal contacts, or a handlebar switch with more contacts and wires, as whichever way the system is made to work, the headlamp (preferably) has to be isolated from the PTI circuit for parking light operation.
rbt11548 said:
You do appear to have grasped how that relay system works, so why not use it?
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Or make your life very easy, buy my kit and put it in your done. Than all you have to change is the switch wires so they go to the relays instead of the head light bullets. If you already bought the relays you could add just one for the key power somewhere. Just a thought....
L.A.B. said:
I think I will, I thought I may get away with just one 5 pin relay in the headlamp shell but as you say I will need to use 2 no matter what way I go. I sat down with a piece of paper and drew out a 5 pin relay and once I had looked at it with the Brown & blue going to the 30 terminal it was obvious that one circuit whether it be hi or lo would be activated at all times. ... so 2 - 4 pin relays it is. Electrics is certainly the black art and I salute all you people out there who can just find it so easy!!!!
Thanks again
A brain tired
Robert
Robert,
It's really not too difficult. I say this having had the benefit of a very good electronics education, compliments of the U.S. Navy. If you think of current flow as water flow and keep in mind current must get back to where it came from, in our case the battery. The battery can be likened to a pump. Switches are flow, no/ flow valves, relays just magnetically operated valves (switches). Ground seems to confuse some. Think of ground as return pipe (conductor). In the case of our Nortons, the chassis (ground) becomes the return conductor for some circuits. If you want, you can replace the chassis as a path for electricity with another conductor. Polarity can cause some confusion. Devices such as lights, horns and most relays don't care what the polarity is. Diodes, electronic ignitions, electronic regulators and LEDs definitely are polarity conscious.
There are quite a few guys here who have a very good understanding of the Norton electrical system. I don't mean to explain things you may already know. Excuse me if this is the case.
It's really not too difficult. I say this having had the benefit of a very good electronics education, compliments of the U.S. Navy. If you think of current flow as water flow and keep in mind current must get back to where it came from, in our case the battery. The battery can be likened to a pump. Switches are flow, no/ flow valves, relays just magnetically operated valves (switches). Ground seems to confuse some. Think of ground as return pipe (conductor). In the case of our Nortons, the chassis (ground) becomes the return conductor for some circuits. If you want, you can replace the chassis as a path for electricity with another conductor. Polarity can cause some confusion. Devices such as lights, horns and most relays don't care what the polarity is. Diodes, electronic ignitions, electronic regulators and LEDs definitely are polarity conscious.
There are quite a few guys here who have a very good understanding of the Norton electrical system. I don't mean to explain things you may already know. Excuse me if this is the case.
JimC said:
No that is great!, it's getting a handle on it, once I can see how something works I'm ok with it , it's the picturing it in my minds eye. I would imagine the Navy would be very well up in the education in the electronics dept. I had a very good wrecking education for 34 years as a firefighter courtesy of the Fire Service :lol: Give me a 440kvolt substation on fire ... no probs... give me a 12v relay system??????.
Thanks again for everyones help, believe, me it is much appreciated!!
