Get out the straight jacket

Is that a Suzuki or Kawasaki engine?

I've got a strong back and a weak mind. I like working on the Norton in the standard orientation. I know people lay their frames on the side to install their Norton motors, but I prefer a rolling chassis.

I need to check the condition of my steering head bearings. I may employ my automotive motor hoist for that. I want to weigh the bike again and have to pull it out, so might as well see if I can use it for the bearings. I'd need to clear out more space to install and use a chain hoist.
 
Haven't looked at your post for a while. WOW! Not a cheap project, Is that an aluminum transmission cradle. How thick is the material. Please let us know it it is stiff enough.
 
Schwany said:
Is that a Suzuki or Kawasaki engine?

I've got a strong back and a weak mind. I like working on the Norton in the standard orientation. I know people lay their frames on the side to install their Norton motors, but I prefer a rolling chassis.

I need to check the condition of my steering head bearings. I may employ my automotive motor hoist for that. I want to weigh the bike again and have to pull it out, so might as well see if I can use it for the bearings. I'd need to clear out more space to install and use a chain hoist.
Click to expand...
TSCC Zuke
 
Schwany said:
Is that a Suzuki or Kawasaki engine?

I've got a strong back and a weak mind. I like working on the Norton in the standard orientation. I know people lay their frames on the side to install their Norton motors, but I prefer a rolling chassis.

I need to check the condition of my steering head bearings. I may employ my automotive motor hoist for that. I want to weigh the bike again and have to pull it out, so might as well see if I can use it for the bearings. I'd need to clear out more space to install and use a chain hoist.
Click to expand...
I had some difficulty figuring out the motor/trans bolt-up as it was the first time, so having it on its side helped me. I got the N15 in a pile 'o bits. That's an '82 Suzuki GS1100E which was built quite well, fitted with a Mr. Turbo kit by Don Vesco's shop in Laguna Hills CA when new. It did 184 MPH at Bonneville and was registered on the street all its life, but really just ran in straight lines mostly. 200 RWHP isn't as fun as it sounds haha.
 
gpzkat said:
I had some difficulty figuring out the motor/trans bolt-up as it was the first time, so having it on its side helped me. I got the N15 in a pile 'o bits. That's an '82 Suzuki GS1100E which was built quite well, fitted with a Mr. Turbo kit by Don Vesco's shop in Laguna Hills CA when new. It did 184 MPH at Bonneville and was registered on the street all its life, but really just ran in straight lines mostly. 200 RWHP isn't as fun as it sounds haha.
Click to expand...
This one perhaps..
bringatrailer.com

Turbocharged 1982 Suzuki GS1100E

Bid for the chance to own a Turbocharged 1982 Suzuki GS1100E at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #84,542.
bringatrailer.com bringatrailer.com
 
gpzkat said:
Yes that's it sorry not meaning to hijack.
Click to expand...
I keep forgetting you did that Suzuki. Nice project.

Going off topic doesn't bother me. I wouldn't know where I was if the content didn't change a few times. :) Besides, I'm running out of things to say about this P11.
 
mean gene said:
Haven't looked at your post for a while. WOW! Not a cheap project, Is that an aluminum transmission cradle. How thick is the material. Please let us know it it is stiff enough.
Click to expand...
The engine and gearbox plates are all the same thickness. Right around .250"

Stiff enough? Not sure how I could tell unless they break. So far they have stayed in one piece although the timing side upper cradle mount has a crack in it. Fairly common apparently. Mine was cracked there when I got it in the early 70's. I know danger danger, but I'm not much of a crisis worry wart. The cradle has more than 50 years on it. I think it would have killed me by now.

Get out the straight jacket


Still want to do a belt clutch. Then I'll have a Norton that doesn't leak.

I'll post what I think about spending the money after I go for a ride. I'm optimistically hoping it was money well spent.
 
Last edited:
Schwany said:
The engine and gearbox plates are all the same thickness. Right around .250"

Stiff enough? Not sure how I could tell unless they break. So far they have stayed on one piece although the timing side upper cradle mount has a crack in it. Fairly common apparently. Mine was cracked there when I got it in the early 70's. I know danger danger, but I'm not much of a crisis worry wart. The cradle has more than 50 years on it. I think it would have killed me by now.

Get out the straight jacket


Still want to do a belt clutch. Then I'll have a Norton that doesn't leak.

I'll post what I think about spending the money after I go for a ride. I'm optimistically hoping it was money well spent.
Click to expand...
That's easy fix.
PM if you are interested. 🍻
 
I rode it. Might have busted it already. lol

I did fix a lot of leaks though.

More after some troubleshooting tomorrow.
 
baz said:
So what happened?
Click to expand...
To be honest, I happened.

It did not stop running is about all I'll say. Won't say in public what happened. Nobody would believe it. I don't even believe it. I only have negative suspicions about the actual cause.

What I did troubleshooting wise first was get over wanting to light it on fire and watch it burn. Sort of kidding about that of course.

In order of appearance here is the troubleshooting I've done so far:

Start draining the oil. Lots of bronze in it. You can guess what parts that came from.

Check timing: It was a degree or so retarded, so I added a degree or two.

I had added a set of .125" phenolic spacers in front of the intake manifolds during this rebuild that were close but not perfectly port matched. I started working on them to correct the openings in the troubleshooting phase, but decided to just put them away. The motor ran fine without them and was tuned previously without them. I thought maybe they were causing a low RPM issue, because fuel had to get over them to get into the combustion chamber with low vacuum off throttle. That was not the major issue, just a street tuning thing. Also drained the float bowls. Still using some oldish fuel, which might not be helpful. It's got Stabil in and octane boost in it. It usually holds up OK.

While checking the timing I also made sure the pistons still go up and down in the bores via the kick start. Also did the best I could with a flash light to check for scoring from piston wrist pin spiral clips coming loose and grinding ditches in the bores. All looked good of what I could see. Pistons also went up and down in the bores normally. Whatever normally means. Tops of the pistons still looked new, but 10 miles isn't much run time.

Removed used spin-on filter, filled a new filter with oil and installed it. Refilled the oil tank after I sucked all the oil goo out from below the oil screen line in the bottom sections of the oil tank.

Currently letting it wet sump a little. Might start it tomorrow.

If it still does what it did that made me say I broke it, I'll be taking it apart and digging into the bottom end.

There is one constant related to this rebuild and it is I. I might be suffering from early onset dementia.

Can one still type semi-coherent sentences with dementia? Then again I might be fooling myself about the sentences being coherent. lol
 
Schwany said:
To be honest, I happened.

It did not stop running is about all I'll say. Won't say in public what happened. Nobody would believe it. I don't even believe it. I only have negative suspicions about the actual cause.

What I did troubleshooting wise first was get over wanting to light it on fire and watch it burn. Sort of kidding about that of course.

In order of appearance here is the troubleshooting I've done so far:

Start draining the oil. Lots of bronze in it. You can guess what parts that came from.

Check timing: It was a degree or so retarded, so I added a degree or two.

I had added a set of .125" phenolic spacers in front of the intake manifolds during this rebuild that were close but not perfectly port matched. I started working on them to correct the openings in the troubleshooting phase, but decided to just put them away. The motor ran fine without them and was tuned previously without them. I thought maybe they were causing a low RPM issue, because fuel had to get over them to get into the combustion chamber with low vacuum off throttle. That was not the major issue, just a street tuning thing. Also drained the float bowls. Still using some oldish fuel, which might not be helpful. It's got Stabil in and octane boost in it. It usually holds up OK.

While checking the timing I also made sure the pistons still go up and down in the bores via the kick start. Also did the best I could with a flash light to check for scoring from piston wrist pin spiral clips coming loose and grinding ditches in the bores. All looked good of what I could see. Pistons also went up and down in the bores normally. Whatever normally means. Tops of the pistons still looked new, but 10 miles isn't much run time.

Removed used spin-on filter, filled a new filter with oil and installed it. Refilled the oil tank after I sucked all the oil goo out from below the oil screen line in the bottom sections of the oil tank.

Currently letting it wet sump a little. Might start it tomorrow.

If it still does what it did that made me say I broke it, I'll be taking it apart and digging into the bottom end.

There is one constant related to this rebuild and it is I. I might be suffering from early onset dementia.

Can one still type semi-coherent sentences with dementia? Then again I might be fooling myself about the sentences being coherent. lol
Click to expand...
Sorry man.

Please keep us filled in.
 
Started it up today. Turns out the issue was a case of an old guy's overactive negative imagination. What I did wrong for my tune was use those not perfectly port matched intake manifold insulators and not replace the fuel. I do know better, but thought the fuel was in better condition.

I'm guessing here, but I would imagine compression improved over the course of the 10 miles and what I thought was the balance changed to total shit (the unbelievable how the hell is that possible issue) was it was near stalling rhythmically from poopy fuel trying to keep the pistons moving at low idle RPM. The front wheel was almost bouncing, and I was tired. Instant negativity.

It does spin up quick no load now without the intake manifold insulators in the way. Also felt fairly peppy the other day, but I kept a lid on the RPMs, and it was not running optimally with the manifold insulators partially blocking the flow over the floor of the intake. Next good riding days with sun are midweek next week. I'll get out there and twist the throttle a little more after another 100 miles or so if I can control myself. I've never been that good at breaking in a motorcycle engine by the book. Did I annoy somebody saying "by the book"? lol
 
Schwany said:
Started it up today. Turns out the issue was a case of an old guy's overactive negative imagination. What I did wrong for my tune was use those not perfectly port matched intake manifold insulators and not replace the fuel. I do know better, but thought the fuel was in better condition.

I'm guessing here, but I would imagine compression improved over the course of the 10 miles and what I thought was the balance changed to total shit (the unbelievable how the hell is that possible issue) was it was near stalling rhythmically from poopy fuel trying to keep the pistons moving at low idle RPM. The front wheel was almost bouncing, and I was tired. Instant negativity.

It does spin up quick no load now without the intake manifold insulators in the way. Also felt fairly peppy the other day, but I kept a lid on the RPMs, and it was not running optimally with the manifold insulators partially blocking the flow over the floor of the intake. Next good riding days with sun are midweek next week. I'll get out there and twist the throttle a little more after another 100 miles or so if I can control myself. I've never been that good at breaking in a motorcycle engine by the book. Did I annoy somebody saying "by the book"? lol
Click to expand...
Great news!
 
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