Final Drive chain

Nater if it don't work out in your case I'll buy the chain from ya and just split the shipping if I've mis led ya. Review above for mention of slightly narrower plate 530 if that might be available. Hope the master link rivets, un trimmed don't collide with the chain guard which can happen on plain chain I fix with some tool levering and hand bashing. i found a super heavy duty dual ended-size chain breaker the 500 pin is its smaller punch size. No need to grind heads off rivets with it and same punch mashes new heads pretty easy too. I was disappointed the chain was not the weak links, that the teeth were. I did about a year with various lube methods from the constant mess Norton drip device to spray on brush on foam on squirt on to find no compromise for me, either total flooding or bone dry or I get detectable wear and slack on each ride. Oh yeah btw I found 530 x-ring chain runs fine on .024" wide 520 teeth of Atlas front sprocket and replaced drum full width teeth.

For clearance problems I have had to put my master link in facing right instead of left. I just changed my drive sprocket and measured the hight from the face of the sprocket to the base where it butts up against the transmission. I have about 6 new sprockets and they were all different. To gain clearance between the chain and primary cover one could grind down the surface where the sprocket mates up to the transmission. It would have to be done on a surface grinder or lathe but would be a good way to gain clearance up front. I realize that alignment with the rear sprocket is important as well but have noticed that on alot of bikes it is not exact and chains will handle a bit of missalignment from the drive to the rear wheel.