trident sam
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gtsun said:
wesite is www.the-chain-man.co.uk
Cost in UK @ GB £ 35 so whatever that is in dollars, Andy says on his site that he deals in USA .
sam
Final Drive chain
- Thread starter dngrsdave
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wesite is www.the-chain-man.co.uk
Cost in UK @ GB £ 35 so whatever that is in dollars, Andy says on his site that he deals in USA .
sam
Has anyone tried the 530 DID as offered below:-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DID530102-D-I-D ... 02&vxp=mtr
40 US $ including shipping seems very attractive.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DID530102-D-I-D ... 02&vxp=mtr
40 US $ including shipping seems very attractive.
I must point out that heavy duty chains for bikes are a bit of a myth.
For any factor of safety most bikes should run 1" chain (massive), just google chain calculation
programe.
Bikes wear chain they should not break so a high breaking load with fat plates is not required. Many
reasons but too boring for here.
A light good quality chain is better than a big heavy chain. The previous post regarding ASA50 was correct
as it has a slightly higher breaking load. The iwis ASA50 has a max width at con of 21.7 where the BS has
20.97 so no big deal. The ASA50 from iwis works well on drag bikes look at Les Harris Racing.
Andy
For any factor of safety most bikes should run 1" chain (massive), just google chain calculation
programe.
Bikes wear chain they should not break so a high breaking load with fat plates is not required. Many
reasons but too boring for here.
A light good quality chain is better than a big heavy chain. The previous post regarding ASA50 was correct
as it has a slightly higher breaking load. The iwis ASA50 has a max width at con of 21.7 where the BS has
20.97 so no big deal. The ASA50 from iwis works well on drag bikes look at Les Harris Racing.
Andy
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Ugh I did 520 X-ring chain converstions on my SV650 and my Peel Combat and can tell ya if you are taking much advantage of the lighter drive components with Cdo torque, you'll find yourselves shopping for drum and sprocket teeth about as often as narrower chains. I think I've one more chain length left from a roll of plain chain I've already cut 3 out for me and my buddy bikes plus my 4 chain drive zero turn mower, so will be shopping for another roll but this time 530 x-ring with thinnest weakest side plates as available. Andy do ya have a suggestion and offer for me on a bulk roll?
Firstly go for standard O ring, much cheaper than X and very little difference.
If you riding all weathers and or commuting, a sealed chain makes some sense for all else a good quality
chain such as Regina or better still iwis non O ring is best. OK needs a little lubing but no power loss and
smother quicker gear changes.
5mts of iwis 530 will cost around £100 and I will join end piece to next box.
Andy
If you riding all weathers and or commuting, a sealed chain makes some sense for all else a good quality
chain such as Regina or better still iwis non O ring is best. OK needs a little lubing but no power loss and
smother quicker gear changes.
5mts of iwis 530 will cost around £100 and I will join end piece to next box.
Andy
At least you're not trying to transmit the engine's power through a 1/4" chain like we did on the prototypes. Why, I have no idea. As far as I know, the Atlas used 3/8 from day one. We had a major catastrophe on test. At about 105 mph on the MIRA banked track, the chain broke. I think the test bike had about 4000 miles on it, but this was the first sustained high-speed testing.
When we pulled the wreck in, the engine was toast - rods through the case, bits scattered all over the county. The tachometer needle was bent where it had hit the stop and the valves were locked together after they'd floated. Pistons were cracked and jammed in the cylinders. It made a good boat anchor.
We finally found the chain on the side of the track and discovered that the split link had failed. It looked like the retaining clip had let go and then the two pins that connected to the adjacent links had bent. A change to 3/8 chain was quickly incorporated.
When we pulled the wreck in, the engine was toast - rods through the case, bits scattered all over the county. The tachometer needle was bent where it had hit the stop and the valves were locked together after they'd floated. Pistons were cracked and jammed in the cylinders. It made a good boat anchor.
We finally found the chain on the side of the track and discovered that the split link had failed. It looked like the retaining clip had let go and then the two pins that connected to the adjacent links had bent. A change to 3/8 chain was quickly incorporated.
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Ugh at a power wash I had a truck dropped chicken wing get wedged-trapped in the clip type link [facing the correct way] to pry it off as I rolled off the spray area leaving me stranded till I found correct enough thickness, stiffness and length of wire to fish the chain back up over the drive sprocket, after a new link obtained as the old one was V shape. Very likely the safety wire or Al sheet folded over would of prevented the pry off, but maybe not. Its such a rare occurrence I've not yet bothered to safety wire till next new chain. I'd had master link come undone on my modern while on pavement while going 50 to have chain pass me like a super fast slithering snake. Errie to see. Besides a fuse link a chain link ain't bad idea to carry. Rivet type need extra tools of course too.
They take between 4-6 bhp.
Be careful not to take it to full adjustment. I have seen cases where a chain has failed
because it has gone 3-4 times over the maximum permitted wear. The rings hold the chain
together so the only way to measure wear accurately is to break the chain and mic the pins.
On some modern machines there is actually an arrow saying"change chain" on the swinging arm
and this is typically around half the full adjustment.
As I have said if you are riding all weathers every day and O ring, cheaper than X or WW, is a good
idea for all else a well lubed non O ring is better.
I will wait for the shit to come my way.
Andy
Be careful not to take it to full adjustment. I have seen cases where a chain has failed
because it has gone 3-4 times over the maximum permitted wear. The rings hold the chain
together so the only way to measure wear accurately is to break the chain and mic the pins.
On some modern machines there is actually an arrow saying"change chain" on the swinging arm
and this is typically around half the full adjustment.
As I have said if you are riding all weathers every day and O ring, cheaper than X or WW, is a good
idea for all else a well lubed non O ring is better.
I will wait for the shit to come my way.
Andy
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andychain wrote
Not from me! I find this quite interesting, especially as the Norton / T160 can do with all the horse power it can get :lol: Is that 4-6 bhp you state the total estimate of power loss for an x-ring or 4-6 bhp more than an ordinary non x/o ring chain?
Not from me! I find this quite interesting, especially as the Norton / T160 can do with all the horse power it can get :lol: Is that 4-6 bhp you state the total estimate of power loss for an x-ring or 4-6 bhp more than an ordinary non x/o ring chain?
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Reggie said:
I do not think you would see that on a low revving / low HP Brit bike.
On a then new 916 SPS O-ring = 114 - non O-ring 117 rwhp on the same dyno,same day.
The factory claimed 117 at the time.
On an old bike pootling along at 3000/5000 rpm there might be a hp in it.
Its wonky enough on the sport bike forums with folk going to 520 for the hp or quicker spooling of a 520 chain. :lol:
Years ago when racers put O ring on and then dino'd the bike they found those sort of power loss.
The X and W ring chains loose less HP but it is still enough for the pro race teams not to use it.
With modern bikes churning out 100 plus HP the average rider will notice no real difference. On older machines
where 20-30 HP is common the difference is noticable and at Ardingly this weekend one guy with a 125cc machine
said he noticed a big difference going to non O ring.
As another member stated there is also a considerable weight burden on big O ring chains as compared with light
non O ring. I will weight 2 chains tomorrow, one 530 O ring and one iwis non O ring. Watch this space.
Andy
The X and W ring chains loose less HP but it is still enough for the pro race teams not to use it.
With modern bikes churning out 100 plus HP the average rider will notice no real difference. On older machines
where 20-30 HP is common the difference is noticable and at Ardingly this weekend one guy with a 125cc machine
said he noticed a big difference going to non O ring.
As another member stated there is also a considerable weight burden on big O ring chains as compared with light
non O ring. I will weight 2 chains tomorrow, one 530 O ring and one iwis non O ring. Watch this space.
Andy
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All's I can say after my decade+ long experiments is the O in O-ring stands for OBSOLETE. Try to bend O vs X and see. I'd still take an O rather than plain chain for the lower mess maintenance if just commuting and touring but will never buy another O ring thankyouverymuch. Alas I snagged a roll of plain chain for $20 and run it dry as a bone so get about 6-7000 miles before its starting to ride up sprocket teeth. IF oil leaks get to chain and oils it some then it only gets 1500-2000 miles and must take up slack after a couple tank fulls or lose teeth tips. If oiled to proper level to make a huge mess then lasts as long as rest of yours do. After my roll is gone will put on X or the iwis sealed 530 and let it eat a clear path out and ride 10,000 miles with just a bit of take up now and then. If you can get much life out to 1/4" thick 520 sprocket teeth then you may not be enjoying Norton torque as much as I do.
texasSlick
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I use a non o ring and make my own chain lube as follows:
put a good sized dollop of wheel bearing grease in a pump oil can, fill it with gasoline (petrol), shake well.
The thin mixture flows into the roller and pins, and when the gas evaporates, leaves the grease in the rollers.
It still slings stuff on the rear wheel, tho not as bad as oil, and I feel more confident that there is more residual lube in the pins and rollers than with oil alone.
put a good sized dollop of wheel bearing grease in a pump oil can, fill it with gasoline (petrol), shake well.
The thin mixture flows into the roller and pins, and when the gas evaporates, leaves the grease in the rollers.
It still slings stuff on the rear wheel, tho not as bad as oil, and I feel more confident that there is more residual lube in the pins and rollers than with oil alone.
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