Drive chain size

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Frankdamp, it was a yellow and blue tin similar to a round biscuit tin and calle d Duchams, we used it a lot in NZ with our Brit bikes and first MX'ers before we knew much about O ring chains. you put the whole tin on the stove on medium to low heat with the chain in the tin, when suitably liquid enough , pull the chain out, drip dry and cool down, and very sticky. Let tin cool and solidify contents, replace lid and store until next needed.
Regards Mike
 
Stiring chain in metal or graphite dusted grease is bar none the best way to get economy out of chains but should properly be flushed first in paraffin/kerosine/diesel first. Ain't just 520 drum teeth that suffer before their time.

Drive chain size
 
I like that Chain-Wax product.Just apply as directed when chain is warm.I dont think that the maintenence on the
standard chain is a problem.
YING
 
I ordered a new brake drum as the teeth were really worn.
I haven't looked at the front sprocket But I would imagine it should be replace as well, no?
I'm pulling the primary today. Next stop, the trans for bushings and bearings.
 
frankdamp said:
In the 1950s and 60s, there was a product on the UK market whicn had a graphite-loaded grease in a flat round can. You took the chain off the bike and rolled it up into a spiral'. Then you put the can of grease on the kitchen stove and heated it until it liquified. Once it was liquid, you put the rolled-up chain into the can and let it cool. When you took it out of the can, the chain was loaded with the graphite lubricant. Put it back on the bike - good for another 5000 miles. There may have been a competing product that used molybdenum disulphide instead of graphite.
Click to expand...

One was called "Linklyfe", it was available into the 90s in fact I'd be surprised if it wasn't still around. Nothing made you feel like you were doing the right thing by your chain than pulling it out of the vat of molten molybdenum disulphide. Definitely something you did when your significant other was not around, if the kitchen stove was your source of heat.

Gary
 
(Quote) In the 1950s and 60s, there was a product on the UK market whicn had a graphite-loaded grease in a flat round can. You took the chain off the bike and rolled it up into a spiral'. Then you put the can of grease on the kitchen stove and heated it until it liquified. Once it was liquid, you put the rolled-up chain into the can and let it cool. When you took it out of the can, the chain was loaded with the graphite lubricant. Put it back on the bike - good for another 5000 miles. There may have been a competing product that used molybdenum disulphide instead of graphite. (Unquote)

I bought a tin of Putoline Chain Wax a couple of years back. It is different to the old Duckhams product, IIRC, seems to be graphite loaded and is not a grease, but a wax which is solid at room temp. Heat up the tin and contents, coil the chain in, and let it get good and warm, just like the Duckhams. I think you have to be careful to make sure that the chain itself gets warm in the tin, as well as the contents. This tin will last me a long time, and I do the chain annually , as work committments keep me off the bike much more than I like. This on a stock 530 chain.
 
So every 530 chain I have found on the web has had a rating not to exceed 500cc.
I looked at RK, EK Bike Master, DID. So whats a boy to do.
I by no means pull hole shots, wheelies or the like but I do ride fast thru the turns.
So just any std 530 chain for around $40 will do?
 
Guido said:
So every 530 chain I have found on the web has had a rating not to exceed 500cc.
I looked at RK, EK Bike Master, DID. So whats a boy to do.
I by no means pull hole shots, wheelies or the like but I do ride fast thru the turns.
So just any std 530 chain for around $40 will do?
Click to expand...

The cc ratings on current chains are generally conservative and are for modern bikes that make way more power per liter than the classics also the modern 530 chains are probably stronger than what came on Commandos back in the 70's....I did break a chain on a Commando way back then but have not on the one I ride now with a RK 530
 
I'm not gonna sweat it anymore. My local bike shop is getting the RK in on Monday. It's $40. I'll just do that.

now off to find a swing arm mod thread to add to
 
My '00 SV650 with ~70 hp/370 lb came with 525 chain and steel teeth. Side plates and link pin thickness & alloy determine the chain itself capacity and not much if any difference there from 520 to 530 chain but the width of the poor ole teeth.
 
Hi
Linklife I still have a couple of tins on the shelf. Good stuff.
I use 530 on all my bikes ie cheap & cheerful. Until I get them sorted for 520. :D Modern Motorcross 520 chain seems to fantastic quality & more than able to cope with our bikes. Less weight seems the way to go.

Chris
 
BTW, the failure on the prototype resulted from the split link coming apart. We were able to retrieve the chain from the test track and the bent split link was still in one end. When the drive is suddenly disconnected at about 105 mph and full throttle, the effects on the engine are quite spectacular. It made a good boat anchor!
 
Linklife had a nasty habit of flinging off onto your side/centre stand, then it would mysteriously migrate to your boot and then onto your mothers carpet. I converted an old deep fat fryer to do the business as i had a good idea that heating grease up over a naked flame was all just going to end in tears.
 
Linklife had a nasty habit of flinging off onto your side/centre stand,
Click to expand...
When I bought my Commando in '98 I still had a tin of Duckhams 'Chainguard', (Linklife's competition) from 1972! Yes, once warmed up it didn't stay put and got thrown off like Linklife. The trick was to hang the chain vertically and drain off as much and as quickly as possible then wipe off any excess which was returned to the tin.
 
frankdamp said:
BTW, the failure on the prototype resulted from the split link coming apart. We were able to retrieve the chain from the test track and the bent split link was still in one end. When the drive is suddenly disconnected at about 105 mph and full throttle, the effects on the engine are quite spectacular. It made a good boat anchor!
Click to expand...
It sounds like the clip came off and it did a radial auto-disassembly? I've had clips come off twice, but the links stayed intact. They were on bikes that made more power than my Commando, but I'd still think a bout springing for a riveting tool and quit using clip masterlinks, if you haven't already. It happened once on my VFR and once on one of the original 900 Ninjas. I just put on a set of CR smooth bores to replace the CV's and lent the bike to Gordon Jennings to 'evaluate' the jetting. When he brought it back the thing was making a smell like burnt paint and the clip on the masterlink was gone.
 
LoL! By the time its done and cost of materials to do it right, if 530 x-ring don't fit or chew a safe path clear, back to plain dry chain by the spool.

Drive chain size


Drive chain size
 
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