Clutch problem

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I think he's got the screw and locknut backwards holding in the arm. Kidding. The lever looks about like mine. Maybe we need to inspect all the appropriate parts that are involved?

Do you have any diaphragm action at all?

I've got to go cook a steak. I'll be back. (in a German dialect)

Dave
69S
 
Robb2013 said:
Clutch problem
Click to expand...

A wild guess, but, looking at the photo, there seems to be a gap between the operating arm and the lifter body at the inner end of the slot, however that gap appears to taper off to zero at the outer end which suggests the roller pivot screw and nut have been overtightened so the lifter is being pinched between the two arms of the body at its outer end? If so, then the roller may also be locked solid? I suggest the nut is backed off by at least half a turn to see if that makes any difference?

Edit: Are you sure the 040065 roller sleeve (item 37 below) is in position inside the roller?
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... 09&Part=37
 
Maybe L.A.B. has a point. Is the screw holding the lever over tightened so the op rod is too tight? I doubt it though, how would you play with the op rod to get the cable on?

The steak was good, especially with the cheap Bordeaux and we watched a stupid movie which is not unusual.

There is an end to this problem.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
I think he's got the screw and locknut backwards holding in the arm. Kidding. The lever looks about like mine. Maybe we need to inspect all the appropriate parts that are involved?

Do you have any diaphragm action at all?

I've got to go cook a steak. I'll be back. (in a German dialect)

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

Just checked the throw on the diaphragm... moves about a quarter of an inch with a full pull on the lever.
 
L.A.B. said:
Robb2013 said:
Clutch problem
Click to expand...

A wild guess, but, looking at the photo, there seems to be a gap between the operating arm and the lifter body at the inner end of the slot, however that gap appears to taper off to zero at the outer end which suggests the roller pivot screw and nut have been overtightened so the lifter is being pinched between the two arms of the body at its outer end? If so, then the roller may also be locked solid? I suggest the nut is backed off by at least half a turn to see if that makes any difference?

Edit: Are you sure the 040065 roller sleeve (item 37 below) is in position inside the roller?
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... 09&Part=37
Click to expand...

Oops. I just may have tightened it a little too much. Wasn't sure where to stop. I've got to know. Be right back.
 
All you do is cinch it up as the ny-loc nut will stay put.
The bolt is just a pivot point for the roller.
I realllllly would like for you to remove the diaphram so I can see your stack height.
All the disks, drive and friction installed MUST be flush with the outer splines of the clutch drum.
Your actuating lever looks good.
The Old Britts site is so helpfull as it has a hand holding walk thru to assembling the clutch and gear box.
Show us the clutch stack as a low stack will give the clutch a real hard pull.
 
OK... loosened up the screw, didn't make any difference. I pulled the cable off and did that thing with the baggie and rubber band... sprayed silicone in the bag until it dripped out the other end of the cable. It does move a lot free er than it did before. Maybe was a combination of the two? I'll hook it all up again tomorrow and see if it's any easier. Thanks again for all your input... and thanks again to Mike for all the phone help.
 
Guido said:
All you do is cinch it up as the ny-loc nut will stay put.
The bolt is just a pivot point for the roller.
I realllllly would like for you to remove the diaphram so I can see your stack height.
All the disks, drive and friction installed MUST be flush with the outer splines of the clutch drum.
Your actuating lever looks good.
The Old Britts site is so helpfull as it has a hand holding walk thru to assembling the clutch and gear box.
Show us the clutch stack as a low stack will give the clutch a real hard pull.
Click to expand...

It was a little tight but nothing was binding. I'll pull the diaphragm off tomorrow morning and take some pics. Also, while I had the gearbox outer cover off I was able to look down and see the ball right in the crotch of the actuator arm, so ball /actuator problems can be ruled out.

The Old Britts tech article was great, especially on the shifter mechanism.
 
pvisseriii said:
Inverted diaphragm?
It should be dished in. yours seems to bow out
Click to expand...
That's what I asked a long time ago, but it's hard to tell with the photo. It should be easy to see in person if it's bowed in or out.

Clutch problem


Dave
69S
 
pvisseriii said:
Inverted diaphragm?
It should be dished in. yours seems to bow out
Click to expand...

I was thinking that too. Seems more in a neutral flat position. How much should it bow in and how much travel shouild it have? I have 1/4 inch.
 
Robb2013 said:
pvisseriii said:
Inverted diaphragm?
It should be dished in. yours seems to bow out
Click to expand...

I was thinking that too. Seems more in a neutral flat position. How much should it bow in and how much travel shouild it have? I have 1/4 inch.
Click to expand...
That seems ok. Can you add or take away play into the lever with the adjuster screw.
 
pvisseriii said:
Robb2013 said:
pvisseriii said:
Inverted diaphragm?
It should be dished in. yours seems to bow out
Click to expand...

I was thinking that too. Seems more in a neutral flat position. How much should it bow in and how much travel shouild it have? I have 1/4 inch.
Click to expand...
That seems ok. Can you add or take away play into the lever with the adjuster screw.
Click to expand...

Just checked again, put a straight edge on it. It's perfectly flat, no bow in or out. Adjuster screw works on both sides.
 
That's strange, it should be obviously bowed inside. I'm still wondering if the thing is inverted and the clutch pack is so high it doesn't let the diaphragm return towards the inside? Let me see if I can find a pic of the diaphragm. In the meantime, I wonder if you can pull off the diaphragm and release it from the tool? That will tell us if it's inverted or not.

When you pull on the clutch lever you should see the diaphragm press to the outside and you should feel at the lever the spring break over like a compound bow.

Dave
69S
 
Try leaving one thin plate out to feel which way that effects feel of lever force. Maybe partially take up some space of missing plate with tape/paper layer to see if spring bow-stack height messing with the works.
 
hobot said:
Try leaving one thin plate out to feel which way that effects feel of lever force. Maybe partially take up some space of missing plate with tape/paper layer to see if spring bow-stack height messing with the works.
Click to expand...

Great idea. Problem is, remember when last night I said I was going out for pizza? Well I got spaghetti instead and there must have been micro-organisms in it because I've been throwing up since 4AM. As soon as I ralphing and this body ache goes away I'll try that. First I'll try hooking up the silicone soaked cable and see if that made a diff.

Names for regurgitating: throwing up, ralphing, upchucking, praying to the porcelain God, calling Earl, blowing chunks, makin the janitor dinner, giving birth to meat puppies, vomitting, takin a mouth poop, blowing lunch... heck, there's more names for regurgitating than there is for a woman's vagina... and I've done it all. Scratch Clara's off my restaurant list.
 
DogT said:
When you pull on the clutch lever you should see the diaphragm press to the outside and you should feel at the lever the spring break over like a compound bow.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you mean and it doesn't do that when I pull it... just gets progressively harder. I mentioned before that it only moves out a quarter of an inch with a full pull on the handle.
 
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