Clutch problem

what I have success with is one new surflex 750 plate, machine the original 750 pressure plate and if needed to get a lower stackup thin a steel plate or 2 (old britt's offers them also). the 750 friction plate on average is .015 thicker than an 850. this is a lot cheaper than converting to a complete 850 clutch along with the fiber plates being a lot lighter than the 850 bronze hub eating boat anchors.

DogT said:

Yes, Dynodave suggested that with my 750 clutch setup it would be unreasonable to expect it to stay engaged with the lighter pressure with the extra plain plate. My other option is to get 5 new friction plates, a new pressure plate, at a cost of around $200, and I have heard of the clutches not being as good with the not-cush drive rear end. So I think I'm going to live with it. It's not a big issue for me. It's not like I can't pull the clutch or it's even hard, just not like pv's one finger vid.

You pays your money and you takes your chances. I have more often than not, been dissapointed with after market fixes and at plenty expense, and then going back to the original at even more cost.

Dave
69S

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Thanks for the ideas guys. The Atlas actuator may be worth looking at, but machining pressure plates and special thickness plain plates will still bring up the cost considerably and then I can't go back. I'll see if the Atlas actuator does any good, otherwise I'm sticking with what I have. It works. Plus I've got the rod seal in now. Thanks Dyno.

Anyone got a part number on the Atlas lever handy? I don't have any books on that one.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Anyone got a part number on the Atlas lever handy?

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040029

Today I re-adjusted my clutch since it was grabbing and grinding into 1st. As usual, I had to make the clutch rod clearance as small as I could and I also noticed that the pivot screw/nut was binding a bit, not letting the clutch lever return nicely. After I got those two thing straightened out, it goes into 1st no problemo. I'll have to wait a few days to get it on the road to see if it quits grabbing.

I got my ball valve micro-switch wired up too. That was easy. Seems to work great, engine quits when I turn the valve off. It also has the benefit that the rear light is wired to it, so in my start up inspection, if the stop light doesn't work it could be I don't have the valve open. I still like Ironjohns switch though.

Dave
69S