Can you add a link to the Final Drive Chain?

Suffering a momentary lapse of judgement, I cut my new chain (530 Roller) to 98 links. Despite the manual saying 99 links for 21 countersprocket... The old chain had 98 links but the new one is about 1/8" too short to attach the masterlink (clip type) with the rear tire as far forward as it can go . When I layed them out side by side, I see the old one is stretched almost link longer...

Can I add a riveted master link to lengthen or should I just bit the bullet and buy another one?

wow. tough call. I'd be upset at myself but I think I'd try a riveted link first and check it to see if it bound or what not. If it didn't look and work perfect I'd go with a new chain. I wonder if it would be better to break the chain in the middle somewhere and add the riveted link in there instead of having it right next to a clip master??

but then again, how much was the chain? Plain roller couldn't have been that much.

Niagara850 said:

Suffering a momentary lapse of judgement, I cut my new chain (530 Roller) to 98 links. Despite the manual saying 99 links for 21 countersprocket... The old chain had 98 links but the new one is about 1/8" too short to attach the masterlink (clip type) with the rear tire as far forward as it can go . When I layed them out side by side, I see the old one is stretched almost link longer...

Can I add a riveted master link to lengthen or should I just bit the bullet and buy another one?

Click to expand...

If the riveted link is fitted correctly then it shouldn't be a problem.

To fit a chain with an odd number of links (in this case, 99) it would have to have one "half link".


The addition of a second master link (+ 1 inner pitch) will give you 100 links. The extra links can always be removed once the chain has stretched a little.

I have added a second master link to my drive chains on my race bikes when switching to very large rear sprockets at shorter tracks. I've never thought it was the optimal solution (I usually carry 2 chains), but it has yet to fail me. With running a 530 chain on a street bike I think you could get away with it.

Or even better, rivet a link back in using a chain riveter and you're back to normal.

Does the the riveted link need to be the same brand as the chain? Its a Renolds

Niagara850 said:

Does the the riveted link need to be the same brand as the chain? Its a Renolds

Click to expand...

Yes, It probably should be, although you could do some careful measuring and get something suitable. Often the rollers are different diameters between brands, so measure that, and width between rollers, to find a reasonable fit. I should say that using a rivet link is still not 100% back to where you were before you cut, but it's a marginally solution then the 2 master links. But... as I said, you're hedging bets here. I'd bet 2 master links would last you the life of the chain.

I know exactly how you feel here. Ahem.... I have cut my expensive EK GP racing chains ($140.00 chain) too short before due to miscalculations! Heartbreaking!

I hear ya, I'll chalk it up to expirience. Only cursed mildly, not like went I dropped my 78 Kaw's gas tank of the bench in the spring... mint condition with original paint, not anymore, still curse when I look at it.

I can use the 2 master clip links I have in meantime to use the brake and torque on the new countersprocket and reassemble the primary. I should have the chain sorted out before hitting the road...

Re: Can you add a link to the Final Drive Chain?

OK, here you go, here's a link to the final drive chain:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Renold-final-dr ... 541wt_1165

: )

Here ya go:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RENOLD-NOS-Half ... es&vxp=mtr

I ordered up a Renolds rivet link and a Renolds half link to work with last Friday. I've have it set up with 2 clip masterlinks now so I could torque on a new countershaft sprocket. The adjusters are almost all the way out, maybe a 1/4" left .

I see a couple of options here:

- Replace one of the clips links (the old one) and put in a rivet link. Then remove the rivet link and only have a the clip masterlink when the chain stretches after a couple hundred miles.

- Cut off another link and use the half link, but then i would have a rivet link and the clip link in the chain for the long run

Ant other alternatives?

Just how tight is your primary chain? Being only 1/8" short of joining up is it possible to move the gear box back (tightening the primary chain) until you can join the chain with the one link? If you can rob a little bit of adjustment from the primary you might make it. You would need to try to reset the primary properly again before you run it so it doesn't get screwed from being to tight. Most of the stretching takes place in the first hundred miles or so. If this worked you could put a few "soft" miles on it and keep checking. You don't want either of the chains to run too tight because it will wear on sprockets and bearings etc but it seems it's so close you might get away with this approach.