Café Commando build thread
- Thread starter Jeandr
- Start date
Jeandr said:
Your Reading glasses are generally set at a focal length of 40cm (which is the international standard). If you increase the power you shorten the focal length and you will need to move closer to see the object in focus.
We generally remove 0.75 diopters from your reading RX to give your computer RX, which extends the focal length to arms length or approximately 75cm.
With all that in mind you chould be able to work out what suits you best considering how far away you weld.
Awsome build mate
Just got 3 right hand threaded and 3 left hand threaded rod ends. I made a RH-LH piece to connect them together, now all that's left is to figure out how to mount them. Fortunately I have a few examples to copy from (thanks Steve). I got these on e-bay from the UK, they probably got here faster than getting them from McMaster-Carr in the US.
Jean
Jean
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Hehe, are we having fun yet Jean! You know I kinda like the thermal stained edge high lighting, i'd be sorely tempted to clear coat some of it rawness. If all your
leaks are in the new welds, I'd be sorely tempted to un hook frame and run some tank sealer in a seam at a time, then leave to set up then do the next. I flung Peel around the worse she's ever been with topped off 6 gal tank w/o an issue till got to 4 gallon with mass and room enough to slosh significantly. I suspect your spine tank will feel good for sprints and dampen some of the finer annoying vibration from road and wind as well as engine.
I don't know what all may work a treat in the rod placements. I've seen about 3 ways to do rear and 2 for the front and we all see the various top styles. I figure the best places are as far away from isolactics as practical and with picture in mind of Watt's like link of opposite links nullifying tipping in a narrow range like Cdo do. Comstock had the slickest front link, cut hole through RH front mount plate to pass radius rod to welded lug on frame tube, the other end was a fixed stud on underside of the iso tube, weld or bolted I forget.
Have a photo to inspire ya.
You will definitely have to try the sense of smoothness out with and w/o the links on to get a sense of what your fluid frame mass is worth.
The tank base looks like alien attachment.
leaks are in the new welds, I'd be sorely tempted to un hook frame and run some tank sealer in a seam at a time, then leave to set up then do the next. I flung Peel around the worse she's ever been with topped off 6 gal tank w/o an issue till got to 4 gallon with mass and room enough to slosh significantly. I suspect your spine tank will feel good for sprints and dampen some of the finer annoying vibration from road and wind as well as engine.
I don't know what all may work a treat in the rod placements. I've seen about 3 ways to do rear and 2 for the front and we all see the various top styles. I figure the best places are as far away from isolactics as practical and with picture in mind of Watt's like link of opposite links nullifying tipping in a narrow range like Cdo do. Comstock had the slickest front link, cut hole through RH front mount plate to pass radius rod to welded lug on frame tube, the other end was a fixed stud on underside of the iso tube, weld or bolted I forget.
Have a photo to inspire ya.
You will definitely have to try the sense of smoothness out with and w/o the links on to get a sense of what your fluid frame mass is worth.
The tank base looks like alien attachment.
Today, I made the parts and welded them for the rear link...
And the front link...
It's starting to look like it's going somewhere. I will have to put the whole engine back together to work on the top link, then do something to secure the swing arm pin in place. Still lots to do, I have a good two feet of snow in the backyard so it will be a while before I can ride anything.
Jean
And the front link...
It's starting to look like it's going somewhere. I will have to put the whole engine back together to work on the top link, then do something to secure the swing arm pin in place. Still lots to do, I have a good two feet of snow in the backyard so it will be a while before I can ride anything.
Jean
Another month or so and we should be good to get the bikes out.
grandpaul said:
Maybe, but I have other plans for that area, which is to attach brackets to hold the mufflers so that they shake with the engine (see muffler-suspension-t6431.html)
Jean
I found this to fix some of the exhaust flex problems. I'm running a Dunstall exhaust, so I'm going to put it in the mid pipe.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SS ... T8VZHB4E5W
There is a 4" version, but no picture.
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-F ... 828&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SS ... T8VZHB4E5W
There is a 4" version, but no picture.
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-F ... 828&sr=8-3
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