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me 70 years creak groan but still getting around ok
Build thread 1976 850 Commando
- Thread starter stevenfoxall
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- Feb 18, 2018
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have a look at Barleycorn engineering clip ons: nicely made and various options other than standard height.. Also do rear set components.
Fast Eddie
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Food for thought should you decide to travel this forlorn path…
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I am slightly shorter than you at 186cm, but have longer inseam and arms than normal for my height. I have had rearsets on my Commando for 30 years.
You can still ride a pillion with many rear sets, but not really the NY Norton ones that are the basis of what FE posted. I bought a pair and could never find a comfortable position with them, as they are more designed for racing and for me the foot position is too high for the long days/weekends on the bike I occasionally do. They also require a different kick start that comprises toe clearance a bit, which is what forces them rearward too far for me.
The best position for me seems to be one that the footpeg bolts straight thru ther rear footrest mount hole, and I have found the best set for me so far is Don Pender's Dunstall reproduction. They have the best angle on the brake lever and give the strongest rear braking acrion i have had on the five different rear sets i have tried. Youcan ride a pillion with these, the just need to keep more on the balls/toes of their feet.
Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
Lookin’ Good! Interested to know whether or not your toes and kickstart interfere with each other, especially when hooking the pedal up to change down?
www.accessnorton.com
Go for an 18" you won't regret it. I dont. The Avon AM26 4.00 18 or the Bridgestone BT46 120-18 are great tires and all the width you need on a Commando rear.
Think twice about clip ons, they make long runs like you have done a bit hard. A drag bar is super comfy for me for long rides and plenty aggressive and cool looking. 18 degree bend, 4″ pull back, 9″ straight center section and 31″ wide
With the NYN rear sets
With the Don Pender (madass140 on the forum) Dunstall repops
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- Feb 23, 2022
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- 16
these look real nice thank you
These look great but i need to have a pillion really, keep the girlfriend happy!
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- Feb 23, 2022
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- 16
I am slightly shorter than you at 186cm, but have longer inseam and arms than normal for my height. I have had rearsets on my Commando for 30 years.
You can still ride a pillion with many rear sets, but not really the NY Norton ones that are the basis of what FE posted. I bought a pair and could never find a comfortable position with them, as they are more designed for racing and for me the foot position is too high for the long days/weekends on the bike I occasionally do. They also require a different kick start that comprises toe clearance a bit, which is what forces them rearward too far for me.
The best position for me seems to be one that the footpeg bolts straight thru ther rear footrest mount hole, and I have found the best set for me so far is Don Pender's Dunstall reproduction. They have the best angle on the brake lever and give the strongest rear braking acrion i have had on the five different rear sets i have tried. Youcan ride a pillion with these, the just need to keep more on the balls/toes of their feet.
Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
Lookin’ Good! Interested to know whether or not your toes and kickstart interfere with each other, especially when hooking the pedal up to change down?
Go for an 18" you won't regret it. I dont. The Avon AM26 4.00 18 or the Bridgestone BT46 120-18 are great tires and all the width you need on a Commando rear.
Think twice about clip ons, they make long runs like you have done a bit hard. A drag bar is super comfy for me for long rides and plenty aggressive and cool looking. 18 degree bend, 4″ pull back, 9″ straight center section and 31″ wide
With the NYN rear sets
View attachment 85597
With the Don Pender (madass140 on the forum) Dunstall repops
View attachment 85599
thanks for the nice response. any info on where i can pick up a set of these Don Pender's Dunstall rear sets?
Also same with the 18" rear? Ive spent some time googling, but my knowledge is pretty low on how to make sure it matches up with my current rear hub etc.
Do you have any more pictures of that drag bar fitted? For example from behind the bike looking at the riders perspective? Thanks
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As with most spoked wheels the (40 spoke) rim dimple holes for the Mk3 rear spoke nipples need to be punched/drilled specifically to suit that application so just any old pre-punched/drilled 40 spoke rim won't do.
The original Mk3 Dunlop rear rim had a 3x1 dimple pattern (3x LH in a row then 1RH), however, it appears possible to fit a 1x1 dimple pattern rim if the RH spoke/nipple holes are repositioned slightly.
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Member on the forum @madass140 is the vendor.
There are plenty of vendors in the UK where you could get a rim and spokes.
If you want a EU vendor, you might ask Constant @ https://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/ - they resell a fair bit of CNW stuff, which is the cream.
Colorado Norton Works Norton Commando parts by colorado norton works Custom Norton Motorcycles
Norton Commando parts by colorado norton works. Large offering of parts and services for the vintage Norton Commando
coloradonortonworks.net
I looked thru my pics, and this is the only cockpit pick I have of the drag bars, in more than a thousand images since my rebuild.
Ignore the goofy grinning mutt, Lucy,
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Useful Links
Links submitted to Access Norton. These links are in no particular order.
www.accessnorton.com
WM4 stainless or chrome rims unavailable?
Rear Avon 120/18 tire recommendation is 2.5"-3"(min-max) rim. That is a WM4 size. Why cannot find a stainless or chrome rim to fit the Norton full hub?
www.accessnorton.com
Front Wheel
I'm not looking for trouble, but I seem to be good at finding it! I think I know the answer, but is this the end of my front wheel rim?
www.accessnorton.com
If I was still in the US, or any other oddball place I couldnt find someone who knew how to build a Commando rim - http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/excel.asp
Search for more...
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Greetings. I had an 18" s/s rim laced to the Mk3 hub by a german company, F. Menze in the city of Hagen. The 3x1 punched undrilled s/s rim, spokes and nipples were provided by Devon Rim Co.
Menze did an outstanding job, though the turn-around time can be long. Best to get started before the driving season begins, or source a second hub.
- Knut
trident sam
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I would stick with the 19-inch rims and tires myself. In my experience a motorcycle can feel as though it handles better on the street with skinny tires. It makes the bike feel lighter flicking it back and forth through turns. If you want to make a wheel change, take a look at https://www.central-wheel.co.uk/. Great selection, good pricing, and they have wheel building services.
Clips-ons are not that comfortable with standard pegs. Your knees may end up in your chest. Rear sets make them tolerable on a street bike if young enough. I don't agree with a lot of people about anything, so take that with a grain of salt.
Be very wary of having Central Wheel Co building a wheel for you, they ruined a bearing housing for a mate's wheel and then had the nerve to charge him for repairing it, as well as assembling the rear hub incorrectly on a T140 rear hub. I'd never use them for anything.
robs ss
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Where's the kickstart? Oh - that's right - saw that video!
Fast Eddie
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Don’t need no stinkin’ kick start !Where's the kickstart? Oh - that's right - saw that video!
However… I confess… I am currently contemplating a (temporary) switch back to kicks start only and remove the e-start. Need to refit the kickstart first though to see if it’s gotten any easier now it’s been used…
robs ss
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Mine's not 920 - but gapless rings.
It is very slightly easier now - after 7500 miles and 2 years. Still embarrasses me sometimes.
I'm the fool (80kg) on top of the immovable (RGM) kickstarter.
Ha!!
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Yikes!! Crooks and hacks are everywhere. I'm avoiding machine shops for fear of that type of service.
If I used Central Wheel I would only buy a rim and spokes from them and lace my wheel up. However, given your report maybe try another vendor.
Fast Eddie
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Same here.
They stripped my hubs when I told them not too, then re assembled them incorrectly.
Wheel offset was wrong.
Inner tubes were made out of breathable rubber… lost all air in a week.
And I had to really insist to get the rim widths I wanted (as specified by Avon) cos they knew better than Avon.
All in all, a horrible experience.
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Some little updates for you guys.
Finally got the tank and side panels off for debt removal and paint. A little harder work than anticipated but will be glad when it’s done. Should be done next week.
Also trying to make a new seat, didn’t like any of the replacement ones so will have a go at making my own. Bit of a lower profile, sleeker. Something like this height wise
Still having some harness supply issues, so will run the original harness as the sun is coming now and I’m desperate to ride. spent a little time just cleaning and polishing. It’ll be all go next week as a big box from andover norton turns up so I’ll have lots to do !
Finally got the tank and side panels off for debt removal and paint. A little harder work than anticipated but will be glad when it’s done. Should be done next week.
Also trying to make a new seat, didn’t like any of the replacement ones so will have a go at making my own. Bit of a lower profile, sleeker. Something like this height wise
Still having some harness supply issues, so will run the original harness as the sun is coming now and I’m desperate to ride. spent a little time just cleaning and polishing. It’ll be all go next week as a big box from andover norton turns up so I’ll have lots to do !
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At some point in time, you should decide whether you are building a road bike or a racer. The two are not the same. In the old days, we used to build Tritons with the mindset that a good motor in a good frame gives a good bike. No Triton is ever as good as a Manx, but a Manx on public roads can be pretty bad.
If I was building a Commando for road use, it would look very original. I would not do anything to it which might give the game away. When you look at a motorcycle, you cannot see the cam profile or what is inside the gear box. You also cannot see what is inside the carburetors. Those three things can help a motorcycle to be very fast.
I underestimated the 850 motor, when it is near-standard, itis excellent. With a standard gearbox, it is hopeless.
Bruce Verdon can supply a TTI 6 speed box with kick start for $5000. You can easily waste that much money when hotting-up a motor.
If I was building a Commando for road use, it would look very original. I would not do anything to it which might give the game away. When you look at a motorcycle, you cannot see the cam profile or what is inside the gear box. You also cannot see what is inside the carburetors. Those three things can help a motorcycle to be very fast.
I underestimated the 850 motor, when it is near-standard, itis excellent. With a standard gearbox, it is hopeless.
Bruce Verdon can supply a TTI 6 speed box with kick start for $5000. You can easily waste that much money when hotting-up a motor.
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