Another failed Sparx stator
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Even the Lucas stators can break leads at resin exit bend. What's going on with the darkened area and gobs of stuff on stator about the 2 oclock area?
Peels got the ends of her Sparks internal laminates partially abraided after rotor collision cooked the resin away and turned the whole thing darker than the brownish Lucas but cleared the gap and kept on juicing till I sold it at a rally w/o complaint. Must be a jack of all trades and trading back parts to keep these things going from the draw or cut of the deck.
Peels got the ends of her Sparks internal laminates partially abraided after rotor collision cooked the resin away and turned the whole thing darker than the brownish Lucas but cleared the gap and kept on juicing till I sold it at a rally w/o complaint. Must be a jack of all trades and trading back parts to keep these things going from the draw or cut of the deck.
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Problems I've noticed with the later Lucas stators is that the cable sleeving is not heat and oil proof and goes hard, fractures and then allows hot oil onto the alternator wires and subsequently the insulation on these cracks and a short results. I've sleeved the alternator wires with the heat resistant fibreglass/acrylic sleeve, using epoxy resin to seal it to the stator. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... heatresist. More customer fettling that's required on new parts.
Fast Eddie
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Two good tips there from you and Ludwig.Al-otment said:
Which bore size did you go for Simon, I'm assuming the 4mm?
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Fast Eddie said:
I used 6mm. I reckon the price difference between a sleeving material totally unsuitable for purpose and which fails and a material that works is about £0.50p (if that) at point of manufacture. Would you say Sparx put quality above profit or the other way around?
Fast Eddie
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Al-otment said:
Thanks for that 6mm it is.
Good question re quality and profit...
I reckon its a tough call these days between A) unscrupulous companies that make a deliberate decision to knowingly cut costs that one or two steps too far and B) companies who basically do so by accident because of their inadequate engineering knowledge / experience / ability !
In my own opinion, a lot of Chinese manufacturers fall into A, a lot of others, especially in UK fall into B.
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I had the same thing happen with a Sparx stator on my Mark 3 - twice.
The first time, I returned it for a free replacement.
The second time (just a few months later) the exact same issue. Threw the second one in the trash and put on a Lucas unit.
5,000 miles later all is good.
The first time, I returned it for a free replacement.
The second time (just a few months later) the exact same issue. Threw the second one in the trash and put on a Lucas unit.
5,000 miles later all is good.
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Al-otment wrote;
My new "Lucas" 3 phase alternator did this after one season and approx 2,000 miles. This is truly piss poor and very disappointing.
I did what Al-ot did but sealed the end of the sleeving with silicone RTV, but I don't really expect this to last without some "touch up" maintainance. :evil: :evil: :evil:
Al-otment wrote;
Never has a truer word been spoken which is why it is so disappointing.
My new "Lucas" 3 phase alternator did this after one season and approx 2,000 miles. This is truly piss poor and very disappointing.
I did what Al-ot did but sealed the end of the sleeving with silicone RTV, but I don't really expect this to last without some "touch up" maintainance. :evil: :evil: :evil:
Al-otment wrote;
Never has a truer word been spoken which is why it is so disappointing.
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Ugh, one underlying mean theme so many posts revolve around is the basic reputation of British, European and Asian general public motorcycles as built to minimal cost quality so that cheap as possible market tradition continues on and on in those still trying to keep that era's cycles roadworthy. Too bad "buy American" either don't exist any more, if it ever did for British or cost is ~3x's comfort level. The HD market is so huge though their parts can still be dirt cheap. https://www.google.com/#q=harley+alternator+replacement
Don't know it relates to Sparx materials but last decade many flexable rubber based items seem to decay way faster than prior. Rubber bands, mower hoses, fork gaiters, truck shock covers, carb boots, rubber grommets and gaskets. Might be ozone hole letting in more UV for more ozone down low getting into sealed primary.
I've repaired Lucas stator the leads got stripped of insulation and cover by rotor nut leaving its post so just wedged shrink wrap to keep separate w/o concern of bare copper showing as rest of the lead covered. The Alcino rotor magnets are only a bit weaker when good than nobelium super magnets are but can take way more heat-vibes before loosing it. So not much potential to upgrade rotor side of power. If ya ever consider rolling your own you can spend fascinating evenings on the DIY wind power sites that are similar to us cyclers intensity but more experimental with dramatic successes and failures.
Don't know it relates to Sparx materials but last decade many flexable rubber based items seem to decay way faster than prior. Rubber bands, mower hoses, fork gaiters, truck shock covers, carb boots, rubber grommets and gaskets. Might be ozone hole letting in more UV for more ozone down low getting into sealed primary.
I've repaired Lucas stator the leads got stripped of insulation and cover by rotor nut leaving its post so just wedged shrink wrap to keep separate w/o concern of bare copper showing as rest of the lead covered. The Alcino rotor magnets are only a bit weaker when good than nobelium super magnets are but can take way more heat-vibes before loosing it. So not much potential to upgrade rotor side of power. If ya ever consider rolling your own you can spend fascinating evenings on the DIY wind power sites that are similar to us cyclers intensity but more experimental with dramatic successes and failures.
MikeG
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ludwig said:
Best explanation yet I think. I never saw this on this Norton, either on the original Lucas or the sparx replacement, but my Triumph had a small bracket to hold the wires firmly to one of the stator mounting studs. Still no excuse for the overall poor quality of the sparx though..........never again will I use any of their shit
concours
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Adrian1 said:
Amen Brother. I have specifically not mentioned the oil cooled design issue, I expect it would only cause another chapter of "DRY CLUTCH!!!! NO, WET CLUTCH!!!!" debate. Again, this is reason number three why I choose to way overfill my primary with ATF. :mrgreen:
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ludwig said:
I agree that the stator wires should be supported. On my motorcycle the sleeving for the alternator wires was so hard and brittle that it fractured where the wires entered the stator. Seeing how the sleeving was so hard and stiff I was concerned that the place where the wires entered the alternator would be stressed and eventually fracture there as well. What I did was remove about a half inch of sleeving at the point where the wires entered the stator. That way the stress point can be distributed more evenly along the wires. Then I covered that area with Permatex ultra grey sealant.
The bracket that supports the wires is made so that the wires will not chafe against the webbing in the primary cover. The bolt I used for the wire clamp is a 3/16 inch drilled aircraft bolt and I used a castle nut with a cotter pin. The reason why I did that is because I want to eliminate the chance that the nut and bolt will back off and fall into the inner workings of the primary chain case.
Last and least, another feature that I like about this bracket is that when the stator is removed I can install a temporary nut and bolt in the bracket and the stator mounting hole. So when the stator is hanging off to the side the wires are better supported.
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