Sparx ( again!)

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An ordinary Podtronics reg/rect did the job for my Ms Peel special with 3 phased Sparx and 160 watts of deer spotting lights, so suggest it as fall back non exotic option after other failed alternatives. A cheaper less robust Timpanium works fine on my factory '72 Trixie Luscas alternator but so stupid simple doubt others will follow to ride on.
 
The price of Podtronics on ebay varied from $65 to $160 so I was concerned that there might be fakes on the market.
I paid a lot for the Shindegen but I gave my money to a local business, the only local busniess that's a traditional British bike shop.
 
The eBay item above isn't a Shindengen, most likely it's a Chinese copy.

The authentic Shindengen regs are a little pricey, but proven.
Also, the SH640 appears to be a Series type regulator. The Podtronics is a good unit, but it is a shunt type, which is a cheaper more basic design. The Podtronics dumps excess current to ground so the stator always has max load for the rpm.
The Series type lighten the load on the Stator once load is met.
This means less heat in the stator, which is a good thing.

Glen
 
Last edited:
worntorn said:
The eBay item above isn't a Shindengen, most likely it's a Chinese copy.

The authentic Shindengen regs are a little pricey, but proven.
Also, the SH640 appears to be a Series type regulator. The Podtronics is a good unit, but it is a shunt type, which is a cheaper more basic design. The Podtronics dumps excess current to ground so the stator always has max load for the rpm.
The Series type lighten the load on the Stator once load is met.
This means less heat in the stator, which is a good thing.

Glen
Click to expand...


Thanks for making me feel better :)
 
I apologise. If I had read the description before posting, I'd have seen "replaces these part numbers..."
Glen is correct. Very likely a crappy fake.
Looking more closely, I can't even find the genuine article. Glad you found one!
 
Fake reg/recs could boil your battery and burn your bike to a crisp.

Why risk it for a hundred bucks? @pommie john you did the right thing!
 
It is the shunt type. The listing I read earlier seemed to show it as Series, but on closer inspection that was in reference to its model or "Series" number.

Glen
 
pommie john said:
OK I've done more testing.

With a 12.4v battery it reads 11.5v while running. Clearly there's no charging.

I tested the yellow leads from the stator while running ( having disconnected them from the regulator.
I got 27vac between each one revving to 2800 ( the rpm that it revs at on full choke).

Between yellow stator leads and ground I got 14.5v with no load.

That's a long way from the 50v suggested by Roadscholar.

The whole charging system is only a couple of years old so I'm doubting that the rotor would have lost its magnetism.

Is there any way of testing the regulator apart from replacing it?
Click to expand...

I had a rotor fail right from the get go. Less than 500 miles on the set up. Replaced that under warranty and of course it was 'we have never had that problem before" line. The stator died a few years later and I chucked the whole mess and went back to a Wassell set up.
John in Texas
 
One last question. Is the regulator supposed to have a ground connection through its body? I have mine on a rubber mounted plate.
 
pommie john said:
One last question. Is the regulator supposed to have a ground connection through its body? I have mine on a rubber mounted plate.
Click to expand...
one of the spade terminals will the ground connection.

I have been trying to buy functioning shindengen R/R whenever i find them one quick way to check for fake is if the seller shows the end opposite the the connectors, if the shindengen numbers are not present it almost guarantees a fake. most sellers offering fakes willnot post pictures of the back side. the sad part is we can deduce that any being offered from china are copies, but the are a host of vendors in the USA who are also peddling the copies ... buyer beware
 
@pommie john you have positive and negative terminals, so electrically there is no need to ground.

However, it’s in your interest to have metal to metal contact if possible (especially if the unit isn’t in the airflow)
Shunt reg/recs get hot, and you should do everything you can to help take that heat away.
 
BOYER+SPARK = bigs troubles

A good régulator it is PODTRONIC (made in USA) or TRI-SPARK (made in Australia) but no china.;)
 
 
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