69 "S" Phoenix rises again
- Thread starter DogT
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Dave,
Shinny for sure. It looks like you and SwooshDave have the most extensive rebuilds for 2010.
Hope you both have em in most improved for this years running.
I love the metal flake era.
If I had my wish I'd have another set of tins in the copper metal flake.
A truly groovy era gone by :cry:
Do you have the tire pump for yours?
Marshal
Shinny for sure. It looks like you and SwooshDave have the most extensive rebuilds for 2010.
Hope you both have em in most improved for this years running.
I love the metal flake era.
If I had my wish I'd have another set of tins in the copper metal flake.
A truly groovy era gone by :cry:
Do you have the tire pump for yours?
Marshal
DogT
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Yeah, SDave has his running though. Mine is ready, I just need the gas lines, install the carbs which are ready, fill with oil, and figure out how to get some more strength in my aged legs. I have some friends that may help me in the mean time, but I need to be able to do it myself. I'm a bit anxious at my age, but I want to do it again, I've been working on this thing since '03.
I've never seen the tyre pump, but I understand DomiRacer has them and I saw them somewhere else recently. I reckon it will be in the most improved if it doesn't blow up when I get it started. I've done everything I ever wanted to to do to this bike except a few expensive non visible items that will come later if I feel they are necessary.
Dave
69S
I've never seen the tyre pump, but I understand DomiRacer has them and I saw them somewhere else recently. I reckon it will be in the most improved if it doesn't blow up when I get it started. I've done everything I ever wanted to to do to this bike except a few expensive non visible items that will come later if I feel they are necessary.
Dave
69S
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Dave:
I used decals from Old Britts and clear coated over.
Side covers worked great but because of stiffness of backing paper I couldn't get the main tank decals to lay down smooth.
Stipped off with 2000 wet dry.
Got Stencils from Old Britts for tank (not available for side covers)
Went on fine. I slit up from the bottom in some places to help fit to curve. See pics.
Used Dupli-Color that was a great match for the silver decals of side covers (Silver Charcoal BFM0236)
Top wet sanded lettering with 2000 with soft backing pad.
Clearcoated with catalyzed spray can (Spray Max 2K Rapid Cut-in Spot Clear Coat Part No. 3 680 062 gasoline and UV resistant $22 ) Super stuff but toxic so respirator required (I held breath and ran in and out of garage :wink: )
Glass smooth finish and when you run hand over tank you can't feel the lettering.
Bob
I used decals from Old Britts and clear coated over.
Side covers worked great but because of stiffness of backing paper I couldn't get the main tank decals to lay down smooth.
Stipped off with 2000 wet dry.
Got Stencils from Old Britts for tank (not available for side covers)
Went on fine. I slit up from the bottom in some places to help fit to curve. See pics.
Used Dupli-Color that was a great match for the silver decals of side covers (Silver Charcoal BFM0236)
Top wet sanded lettering with 2000 with soft backing pad.
Clearcoated with catalyzed spray can (Spray Max 2K Rapid Cut-in Spot Clear Coat Part No. 3 680 062 gasoline and UV resistant $22 ) Super stuff but toxic so respirator required (I held breath and ran in and out of garage :wink: )
Glass smooth finish and when you run hand over tank you can't feel the lettering.
Bob
DogT
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Stencils are great, but it would be very hard or impossible to do a gold outline with the black interior over the blue flake. I'll see what possm's decals are like. I may resort to a hand painted one, don't know. I don't have the facilities to do 2 pack paint so I'll either have to spring for big bucks or resort to having my decals un-coated like the original. I've never been able to get clear rattle can paint to not bubble the vinyl decals. At this point I don't want to spend the bucks on painting the F/G tank until I sort out the ethanol/Caswell coating/get a metal tank issue.
Seat almost finished, need to cut the 5/16-24 bolts shorter for the strap, I should have put a bit more padding in the rear, it got a bit thin there, eh. Need to make a punch to drive the ID plate rivets in and not mangle them up. I paid the jeweler $18 to engrave the numbers on the plate instead of having them punched.
Dave
69S
Seat almost finished, need to cut the 5/16-24 bolts shorter for the strap, I should have put a bit more padding in the rear, it got a bit thin there, eh. Need to make a punch to drive the ID plate rivets in and not mangle them up. I paid the jeweler $18 to engrave the numbers on the plate instead of having them punched.
Dave
69S
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Dave:
>>I don't have the facilities to do 2 pack paint so I'll either have to spring for big bucks or resort to having my decals un-coated like the original.<<
I got the clearcoat at a professional auto paint supply store.
It has a button on the bottom of the spray can that you push to catalize it and it's pot life is 24 hours.
Puts out a real profession cloud.
Very easy although a little pricey.
It went over my vinyl side cover decals (Old Britts) and painted stencil on tank with no bubbling.
Your bike is looking terrific!
I'm betting once you get used to putting your body weight down on the foot lever with authority you'll be good to go.
If not and you've got a bit of play money you could try the Old Britts electric start.
Or always park at the top of a hill :mrgreen:
Bob
>>I don't have the facilities to do 2 pack paint so I'll either have to spring for big bucks or resort to having my decals un-coated like the original.<<
I got the clearcoat at a professional auto paint supply store.
It has a button on the bottom of the spray can that you push to catalize it and it's pot life is 24 hours.
Puts out a real profession cloud.
Very easy although a little pricey.
It went over my vinyl side cover decals (Old Britts) and painted stencil on tank with no bubbling.
Your bike is looking terrific!
I'm betting once you get used to putting your body weight down on the foot lever with authority you'll be good to go.
If not and you've got a bit of play money you could try the Old Britts electric start.
Or always park at the top of a hill :mrgreen:
Bob
DogT
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OK, I see that catalyzed paint now. That very well may work for me. I wonder if I can borrow a respirator somewhere? I could do it in the barn if I clean it up a bit.
Yes, I remember when I was starting it before, I always had to put my weight into the second compression with a stiff leg. It's been 20 years and I just don't have the routine down yet, but it would help if I build up my leg muscles. I live at the top of a 200' hill, but it's gravel and I don't think I want to try that one, steepest part is about 20 degrees. Maybe when I get used to it.
Dave
69S
Yes, I remember when I was starting it before, I always had to put my weight into the second compression with a stiff leg. It's been 20 years and I just don't have the routine down yet, but it would help if I build up my leg muscles. I live at the top of a 200' hill, but it's gravel and I don't think I want to try that one, steepest part is about 20 degrees. Maybe when I get used to it.
Dave
69S
Dave, for driving in the data plate rivets I used a drill to countersink a depression in the end of a 3" long bolt and then used this as a rivet tool. This stops the bolt from slipping off the rivet-head when you knock in the rivets. The countersink angle is reasonably close to the curvature of the rivet head (make sure you don't countersink so deep that the rivet head is below the surface of the end of the bolt, or it may mark the data plate.
DogT
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Dave M, That's exactly what I did, I used one of the old 5/16 bolts from the Z plates, drilled a hole in the center of the head, ground off the outside layer and punched the rivets on in after setting them in place with a slight tap. It worked out fine.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
DogT
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Woo Hoo, I got it over the second compression stroke tonight with my crocks on too. It really helps if you have the left foot peg on and get up high and put your straight leg weight into the second stroke. That's the trick, I'm remembering now.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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Dave and All, i'm interested in your coments on muffler mounts, i.e. in the !970-74 workshop manual section F the picture shows a exhaust mount,
yet the "s" supplement in the parts book list 2 of 014999 silencer rubbers which are a 5/16 x 1-1/4 x 1/16 rubber washer [ Tank mount washer ] and E3135 5/16 x 13/16 bolt, What is correct? and what should be the correct thickness of the mount?
Thanks Al
yet the "s" supplement in the parts book list 2 of 014999 silencer rubbers which are a 5/16 x 1-1/4 x 1/16 rubber washer [ Tank mount washer ] and E3135 5/16 x 13/16 bolt, What is correct? and what should be the correct thickness of the mount?
Thanks Al
DogT
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More new parts. 71 chromed rear mudguard, drilled 2 holes in it for the strap between the upper shock mounts, otherwise it fit fine, even with the tail lamp assembly, but is a bit different shape than the original. More of a 'D' curve to it, original was totally round. I'm going to have the original repaired and chromed this winter.
New chain guard from Burton today, the old one was too beat up.
Went to airport today and got avgas. $4.50/gal. Going to take the tank outside and see if the petcocks leak today. Fuel harness made up and ready, carbs cleaned and ready for assembly. Cables lined up and ready for install. Front tyre is off, it seems to have a very slow leak to it, but filled it up again to see how long it lasts. Stripped the threads out of one of the 5/16-24 threads in the oil filter head trying to install it, so am waiting on a Helicoil repair kit to put the oil lines on. Then I should be ready to take this thing into the garage, run some oil through it and get ready to start. It's almost time, maybe next week sometime.
Dave
69S
p.s. if too many people get irritated with this thread, I can end it.
New chain guard from Burton today, the old one was too beat up.
Went to airport today and got avgas. $4.50/gal. Going to take the tank outside and see if the petcocks leak today. Fuel harness made up and ready, carbs cleaned and ready for assembly. Cables lined up and ready for install. Front tyre is off, it seems to have a very slow leak to it, but filled it up again to see how long it lasts. Stripped the threads out of one of the 5/16-24 threads in the oil filter head trying to install it, so am waiting on a Helicoil repair kit to put the oil lines on. Then I should be ready to take this thing into the garage, run some oil through it and get ready to start. It's almost time, maybe next week sometime.
Dave
69S
p.s. if too many people get irritated with this thread, I can end it.
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DogT said:
You're just about to start the damn thing and you threaten to end the thread? You tease! :mrgreen:
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I like it when a restoration nears completion. Maybe you could have Dave fly in and start it for you he has a hell of a kicker leg. 
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Fly? With theses legs I can just run to Virginia!britbike220 said:I like it when a restoration nears completion. Maybe you could have Dave fly in and start it for you he has a hell of a kicker leg.
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Hey Dave how did u find the Burton rear chainguard? Im on the hunt for one too.
Adam
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