69 "S" Phoenix rises again

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Adam
I had a guy make a mould off a freinds early tailight fearing as i needed one, contact dave_sewell96@msn.com , the reflectors are available new in England someone posted their web address on this forum hopefully tat person will chime in.
Al
 
Oz,

The tail lamp assembly is original, except repainted with MetalSpecks Silver and a clear coat, metal powder coated. Specks don't show up except in the sunlight much.

possm,

The red ground wires (double) from the harness that come out by the coils, there are 2 double wires with a circular spade lug on each of them. I have looked high and low to see where these lugs go. No bolt within their reach will go through the holes in the lugs except the self tapping screws that mount the ignition capacitors on the little tab that comes out from the coil holders. I am not convinced that this is where they go, but I really don't know where they originally went. My 20 year old notes do say they went "under cap mount bolts", what ever that means, but they definitely will not fit under a 1/4-28 bolt, much less the 5/16" bolts for the head steady bracket. I have been through this issue to no avail.

69 "S" Phoenix rises again


Dave
69S
 
Dave,

I did what you did. My repop harness has two sets of red wires as seen in your b4 photo so I attached them to the condenser mounting tabs. And just for sh!ts & grins, I ran an additional red from the bolt hole on top of the coil bracket as visible in afore mentioned b4 pict and ran it to the center bolt on the headsteady

Tom
 
Tom,
Thanks, I thought I was the only one with this problem. Yes, there needs to be a ground (red) wire from the coil pack assembly to the engine. I think originally it was a wire from the kickstand (frame) to the very bottom engine bolt. I am going to check all the ground wires, lights and ignition for ground continuity across the bike before I finish wiring and startup. The later bikes, like 71, had the ground at the headsteady plates (frame) and then also a strap to the engine, I think. That's what I see in the Clymer book at any rate.

Dave
69S
 
Maybe those red earth pair wires were police items, as condenser should earth through its case-mount and the coil cases should be isolated-unconnected with any current flow. Coil terminals are the only thing passing them current. I've had coils go bad on the road, shorting to their cases but worked to get home by putting tape or paper around them to zip tie stable yet not contact chassis earth. Was frustrating to find as without the bike vibrating coil would fire, but vibration shorted it dead.
But never hurts to have too much good money or good earth connections.
 
I don't think the red wires were a police item. This is a dead stock '69 'S' original harness. Yes the coils have their own plus and minus. the issue is the placement of the double red ground wires, and that may be a question for the ages. I doubt if anyone has a '69 with it's original undisturbed wiring or that he/she will show up here to enlighten us.

Dave
69S
 
Hey, Dog, I just happened to notice that we each had 225 replies to our project threads.

Well, now you have 226.
 
If'N it was mine, I'd pull the red wires unconnected and see if all still runs as expected then remove them or tuck out of sight. If it don't, I'd leave em on while pondering what conduction fault to Earth they are compensating for.
 
Haven't started it yet. I was checking the grounds with my trusty Fluke last night and I have good ground from the positive battery terminal to everything except the perforated ham can air filter cover which is not electronic. Everything measures about 0.3 ohms, engine, headlamp shell, tail lamp ground, Z plates, fenders, handle bar, forks, exhaust, which should be good enough for me. Don't know why, because I have not even taken care to ground the motor to the frame yet, but who cares as long as it is all grounded, I may do that in any case. Of course that may all change when I actually get power to the harness.

Off to town to get another front tube and some new spark plugs.

Dave
69S
 
Hi Dave
There should be an earth wire [red] going to the motor unit normally to the head steady, i vaguely remember some early ones attaching to the cap screw that attaches the head steady to the head.
Al
 
possm,
Actually, I have the motor grounding wire I removed and still have part of it, it was a black wire that went from the kickstand (frame) to the bottom bolt on the motor. I remember the service manual even mentions it somewhere. I think that was the engine ground for '68 - '69. But there is no reason not go have a good ground to the CEI bolt under the headsteady to the frame or even the coil assembly too. If I had any problems with grounding, I was going to just run separate ground wires, but it doesn't seem like I'll be needing to do that, yet.

I'm still having problems with the tube. Seems like it is impossible to find a heavy duty or good tube in the 3.00 19. The local bike shop tried to sell me a 3.25/3.50-19. It looks like a nice tube but.....

Dave
69S
 
Dave the correct size tube you require is a 275/300x19tr6- [tr6= trhreaded metal valve] you are better to go smaller- expand than to go larger and create a crese, becareful with heavy duty tubes as they are designed for motocross purposes and are normally marked not for highway use, ie because they are thicker and may be of different materials they may overheat.
Al
 
Dave,

You are correct about the grounding cable from the kickstand mounting bolt to the lower engine bolt. It is refered to in the factory Norton manual and i found one still attached to the kickstsnd bolt on mine left by whomever disassembeled it. It is just a bare wired cable with round terminals on either end.

Hope this helps,

Best wishes and a mighty fine job so far, looks great!


Tom
 
Tom,
Yes, thanks, I remember that wire and it is still here in my work area somewhere, probably in my trash nuts/bolts tray. However, I think better grounding can be accomplished. But since I seem to have good grounding I am not going to worry about it much unless I have problems and my Fluke 189 will tell me what I need to know.

Carbs are on, front tyre is on, front brake cable is on, clutch cable on, need to either get it into the garage or the barn so I can put oil in it and not worry about oil on the tile floor in the spare bedroom where I have it. It's getting real close.

We are having a huge infestation of 'stink bugs' here in the Mid-Atlantic area and I am very reticent about taking this 'new' bike out in this bug infested area. You can't believe how many of these bugs are around, but then I live next to the woods in the country too. Oh, well. Press on.

I'll get some pictures of it when I get it outside. It's looking good, hope it runs as good as it looks and pulls like I remember it used to.

Dave
69S
 
I totally understand the spare bedroom deal, Had mine to the point of all it needed was to put the bars on and controls. Made me laugh a bit when read your last post. LOL. :lol:
 
Nearly everything done. Waiting on some exhaust clamps from Clubman. Put a battery on it tonight to test the wiring and everything seems to work, pilot light, clock lights, rear light, horn, flasher, high/low beam, haven't tried the brake switches yet. I also put a variable voltage supply on it and the zener is regulating at 14.1 Volts. That's not to say the alternator is putting out, or the rectumfrier is working correctly, but I think it will work good enough for startup, even if I have to use a battery. Power is getting to the coils, need to crank it over with the electric drill on the drive side nut and see if I get alternator output and good spark. I think this week is it, so, I can get Swoosh to come over and push it through.

We still have biblical proportions of the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug hanging around the house. It's all I think about now.

Dave
69S
 
well done dave soo close.

You wouldnt believe it but i was telling my wife about the stink bugs and the pic u sent me of them on ur garage and the next day they had a mini news article on them on the morning news show and how there causing problems in parts of the US....

Adam
 
DogT.

Nice job !!!.

Would you ba able to tell what size and thread the breather mount in engine cases is ? ( , where the elbow screws into, front LH at end of cam ).

Thanks.
 
Josh,.
I'd have to pull it out to get the tpi. The outside diameter is right at 0.5". Why not ask in a seperate thread, I'm sure someone either knows or has one they can pull out to see.

Dave
69S
 
We are having a huge infestation of 'stink bugs' here in the Mid-Atlantic area and I am very reticent about taking this 'new' bike out in this bug infested area. You can't believe how many of these bugs are around, but then I live next to the woods in the country too. Oh, well. Press on.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry to hear another bug invasion. They can worm and wiggle and die in all kinds of nooks and their shit is corrosive as are there dead bodies till dried on.
Better really consider a good wrap to keep them and what feeds on em off the goodies. Bet they sting and stink with hit in face riding.
 
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