Spray Coppercoat Gasket Sealer?

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Dan1950

Dan1950

1974 MK II Roadster
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As I go about dismantling my MK II for a layshaft bearing replacement, I keep encountering gaskets glued to the mating surfaces with some sort of gasket sealer. This not only makes separation of the various components difficult, it leave a mess to scrape off the surfaces.

Over the past 45 years I have used spray Coppercoat gasket compound on all of the various machines I have worked on. This includes motorcycles, automobiles and outdoor power equipment. I even use it on head gaskets. I have never had any leaks after placing these various machines into service.

Spray Coppercoat Gasket Sealer?



What I like about spray Coppercoat, other than the leak free service, is that although it is tacky aiding in holding the gaskets in place for assembly, it separates upon disassembly without sticking to the mating surfaces. This virtually eliminates any cleanup of the surfaces.

My question is; am I missing something? Is it really necessary to "glue" the gaskets in place for leak free assemblies on a Norton? I find the scraping necessary to remover the glued on residue more likely to damage the finely machined mating surfaces thus promoting the likelihood of leaks.
 
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As a general rule I use sealers, but never the hard set ones. I like Copper Coat also.
 
I never use anything other than grease on a gasket
But that copper coat looks good maybe I'll try some
Cheers
 
baz said:
I never use anything other than grease on a gasket
But that copper coat looks good maybe I'll try some
Cheers
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It keeps the gaskets from sticking and a quick wipe with a solvent soaked rag leaves the surfaces clean.
 
I presume you just spray the gasket, on both sides ?

I share your hate of over glued gaskets, and the potential damage that can’t be caused removing them :mad:
 
Fast Eddie said:
I presume you just spray the gasket, on both sides ?

I share your hate of over glued gaskets, and the potential damage that can’t be caused removing them :mad:
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Spray both sides with a wet coat and let dry to a tacky state. It has just enough tack to hold the gaskets in place yet it doesn't "glue" them to the surfaces.
 
Dan1950 said:
It keeps the gaskets from sticking.
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Sounds good
I have no idea why people like to use hard setting gasket cement ??
I assume they are paranoid about potential leaks
Red hermertite and a gasket cut from a cornflake packet used to be the favoured method of sticking a motor together over here!!
 
baz said:
Sounds good
I have no idea why people like to use hard setting gasket cement ??
I assume they are paranoid about potential leaks
Red hermertite and a gasket cut from a cornflake packet used to be the favoured method of sticking a motor together over here!!
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The only "glue" I have ever used was weather-strip adhesive on the un-gasketed case joining surfaces of Harley Big Twin (hog) engines.
 
Fast Eddie said:
I think a lot of people just think “this bastard won’t f*ckin’ leak now” as they plaster glue everywhere and spare NO thought whatsoever to future disassembly.
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That's the problem
They'd get it running like that just long enough to bake the cement rock hard then it'd break down again and leave it, and 40 years later some scruffy oik (me) would buy it and complain on here about it!!!!
 
The hamfisters rely on glue after stripping the threads out
 
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The engine case joint is critical and can not think of a reason to spray slop all over the various cover gaskets.
Surface prep including a chamfer on all holes threaded or otherwise and maybe a wipe with 518 to a gasket and done with it. (But not the main case joint, that is something else being a one shot job. I still use WellSeal with a 25 minute tack off )

VHT copper gasket on (prepped) copper head gaskets for me, if the four surfaces are Acetone cleaned you could probably lift the engine afterward with no head fasteners in place.

Perhaps a case of what ever works for you.
 

LOCTITE® 518

LOCTITE® 518 is a general purpose, primerless, semi-flexible, form-in-place anaerobic flange sealant. It cures – even in the presence of minor surface contaminants – to seal close fitting joints between rigid metal flanges, and will flex with minor flange movements. It provides resistance to low...
www.henkel-adhesives.com

Use this on gaskets, seals tight, and peels off like sticky note. I learned it from the Rotax service manual.
 
I use the copper spray on my head gaskets (copper gasket) and yammy bond on my crank case join other than that all good quality gaskets, the grease on gaskets work a treat as well, most people use the wrong gasket goo for the jobs they are doing and don't think about the future when needing to be pulled a part, but a good soft face banger (hammer) works a treat on hard stuck covers and a sharp razor blade to get the old gasket off.

Ashley
 
Time Warp said:
The engine case joint is critical and can not think of a reason to spray slop all over the various cover gaskets.
Surface prep including a chamfer on all holes threaded or otherwise and maybe a wipe with 518 to a gasket and done with it. (But not the main case joint, that is something else being a one shot job. I still use WellSeal with a 25 minute tack off )

VHT copper gasket on (prepped) copper head gaskets for me, if the four surfaces are Acetone cleaned you could probably lift the engine afterward with no head fasteners in place.

Perhaps a case of what ever works for you.
Click to expand...
Is there a knack to removing Wellseal? I had a hell of a job getting gasket and Wellseal off my rocker covers. Plus, very difficult to avoid dropping bits into the cavity. I tried rubbing with degreaser, petrol and carb cleaner and it resisted all attempts. Two hours of frustration. Unless there's a suitable solvent, I don't plan on using Wellseal again.
 
Mart UK said:
Is there a knack to removing Wellseal? I had a hell of a job getting gasket and Wellseal off my rocker covers. Plus, very difficult to avoid dropping bits into the cavity. I tried rubbing with degreaser, petrol and carb cleaner and it resisted all attempts. Two hours of frustration. Unless there's a suitable solvent, I don't plan on using Wellseal again.
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I wouldn't use wellseal on the rocker covers if I were you
I'd only use it on the crankcase join
Just my opinion
 
I have been using copper spray gasket for years as well. I spray both sides of gasket. I usually spray once, let dry and spray a second coat to assemble when tacky. They look good too if you spray the edges, I know who cares about how a gasket looks! Seriously, never any leaks and easy cleanup during disassembly. Highly recommend it.
 
concours said:

LOCTITE® 518

LOCTITE® 518 is a general purpose, primerless, semi-flexible, form-in-place anaerobic flange sealant. It cures – even in the presence of minor surface contaminants – to seal close fitting joints between rigid metal flanges, and will flex with minor flange movements. It provides resistance to low...
www.henkel-adhesives.com

Use this on gaskets, seals tight, and peels off like sticky note. I learned it from the Rotax service manual.
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That's the one I use. It comes in a smaller syringe pack as well which is a better price and size for hobby level users. But still not cheap.

And I use coppercote on head gaskets. Including copper head gaskets.
 
Time Warp said:
VHT copper gasket on (prepped) copper head gaskets for me, if the four surfaces are Acetone cleaned you could probably lift the engine afterward with no head fasteners in place.

Perhaps a case of what ever works for you.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I want to avoid.
 
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