Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)

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swooshdave said:
Is the stock kill switch normally open or closed?
Click to expand...

Closed to make contact

What is the Main Switch? The ignition? There is a light switch and a Dip Switch. I guess that's what all the buttons on the handlebars are for...

The Main ,or Ignition switch to me is the switch that takes the key.

Try this relay diagram... 30 comes from battery via fusebox, (or fuse), 85 to earth, 87 main and dipped headlight connections , one to each, and 86 to the handlebar switch main and dip connections. This is for a MK3 , I can't remember if the others have 2 handlebar switches, however whatever type it is , the handlebar switch will be fed from the main key ignition switch.
When I did this diagram I put it to the forum for comments and the general concenious was it would work,
Robert

Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)
 
rbt11548 said:
swooshdave said:
Try this relay diagram... 30 comes from battery via fusebox, (or fuse), 85 to earth, 87 main and dipped headlight connections , one to each, and 86 to the handlebar switch main and dip connections.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I think that's what I got. Unless I'm missing something. Mine does have the Hi Beam Flash and the LED Hi Beam Indicator. Crap I messed up 85/86.

My big question now is the Hi Beam Flash, it looks like if you hit this switch it bypasses the Light Switch and goes to the relay. What happens if you hit the Hi Beam Pass and your Hi Beams are already on? Does the earth stop rotating?

Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)
 
rbt11548 said:
swooshdave said:
Is the stock kill switch normally open or closed?

Closed to make contact

What is the Main Switch? The ignition? There is a light switch and a Dip Switch. I guess that's what all the buttons on the handlebars are for...

The Main ,or Ignition switch to me is the switch that takes the key.

Try this relay diagram... 30 comes from battery via fusebox, (or fuse), 85 to earth, 87 main and dipped headlight connections , one to each, and 86 to the handlebar switch main and dip connections. This is for a MK3 , I can't remember if the others have 2 handlebar switches, however whatever type it is , the handlebar switch will be fed from the main key ignition switch.
When I did this diagram I put it to the forum for comments and the general concenious was it would work,
Robert

Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

What is the R/H (right hand I know) switch? If that is the HI beam flash switch, then the diagram is wrong. That switch should be wired (as on the diagram Swooshdave posted and mine) to activate the hi-beam relay. It will only do so IF the lights are OFF or if the lights are ON, but on LOW beam.

Jean
 
Dave,
I'm following this thread with interest, my 1975 needs wiring completed. The more I review the wiring the more questions I have as to why did he do this? As I read the posts I am leaning towards starting from scratch on the 75. The PO made his own custom setup but I don't like the connections and there are no relays etc. Anyway, my question, physically, how are you laying out the wires? On the ground, a table, hanging from the wall? I was planning on using a table but not sure if it is wide enough and was actually thinking of sticking it up against the wall. I was thinking I would use a marking pen to make a picture of the wiring then attach the wires somehow to the wall. One thing is that it will be out of the way! When finished I could actually leave the marking on the wall in case I do another or if someone else wants one.
kurt
 
kwb210 said:
Dave,
I'm following this thread with interest, my 1975 needs wiring completed. The more I review the wiring the more questions I have as to why did he do this? As I read the posts I am leaning towards starting from scratch on the 75. The PO made his own custom setup but I don't like the connections and there are no relays etc. Anyway, my question, physically, how are you laying out the wires? On the ground, a table, hanging from the wall? I was planning on using a table but not sure if it is wide enough and was actually thinking of sticking it up against the wall. I was thinking I would use a marking pen to make a picture of the wiring then attach the wires somehow to the wall. One thing is that it will be out of the way! When finished I could actually leave the marking on the wall in case I do another or if someone else wants one.
kurt
Click to expand...

I made my harness while sitting in front of the TV drinking a large cup of coffee. I had every part (coils, headlight, regulator, brake switch ect)placed on the bike then made my harness to accomodate what was in place. I made some measurements with some spare wire, wrote down the length and moved onto the next piece. Again, making a measurement with a piece of wire, wrote down the length and so on.

Once my lengths were recorded, I added an extra foot onto the lengths just in case as it is easier to cut off rather than to add length. My main harness consists of 7 wires only (no signals) so I made the headlight end flush and taped it off. I put that end under my foot on the floor, stretched the harness out and secured pieces of electrical tape every 8" - 12" and once that was done, wrapped it in heat shrink.

Done. That took maybe 2 cups of coffee and some goofing off watching whatever was on TV so maybe an hour of time.

I stressed out for a month before doing the harness but now, I'd make one without even flinching as it was that easy. Just have a plan and take your time.

Once the main harness was on the bike it was a matter of connecting the dots and making things neat and tidy. I went a bit overboard by putting a small piece of heat shrink over each end of wire that has a connector crimped on, just to give it some strain relief and extra security.

Any sub harnesses like the one coming from the 3-phase alt to the regulator, I wrapped completely in heat shrink as it sits under the tranny cradle.
 
Coco said:
kwb210 said:
Dave,
I'm following this thread with interest, my 1975 needs wiring completed. The more I review the wiring the more questions I have as to why did he do this? As I read the posts I am leaning towards starting from scratch on the 75. The PO made his own custom setup but I don't like the connections and there are no relays etc. Anyway, my question, physically, how are you laying out the wires? On the ground, a table, hanging from the wall? I was planning on using a table but not sure if it is wide enough and was actually thinking of sticking it up against the wall. I was thinking I would use a marking pen to make a picture of the wiring then attach the wires somehow to the wall. One thing is that it will be out of the way! When finished I could actually leave the marking on the wall in case I do another or if someone else wants one.
kurt
Click to expand...

I made my harness while sitting in front of the TV drinking a large cup of coffee. I had every part (coils, headlight, regulator, brake switch ect)placed on the bike then made my harness to accomodate what was in place. I made some measurements with some spare wire, wrote down the length and moved onto the next piece. Again, making a measurement with a piece of wire, wrote doen the length and so on.

Once my lengths were recorded, I added an extra foot onto the lengths just in case as it is easier to cut off rather than to add length. My main harness consists of 7 wires only (no signals) so I made the headlight end flush and taped it off. I put that end under my foot on the floor, stretched the harness out and secured pieces of electrical tape every 8" - 12" and once that was done, wrapped it in heat shrink.

Done. That took maybe 2 cups of coffee and some goofing off watching whatever was on TV so maybe an hour of time.

I stressed out for a month before doing the harness but now, I'd make one without even flinching as it was that easy. Just have a plan and take your time.

Once the main harness was on the bike it was a matter of conencting the dots and making things neat and tidy. I went a bit overboard by putting a small piece of heat shrink over each end of wire that has a connector crimped on, just to give it soem strain relief and extra security.

Any sub harnesses like the one coming from the 3-phase alt to the regulator, I wrapped completely in heat shrink as it sits under the tranny cradle.
Click to expand...

That is a great plan. I will wait until I get all the parts on the bike and follow this method. I'm going with the philosophy of relays and LEDs and neg ground. Oh, and turnsignals. Which is why I am taking the extra time to work these wiring plans over now. There are bunch of plans out there but they never seem to have all three of these features in one place.
 
I have done a number of wiring jobs on old bikes and the way *I* do it is to first draw everything on paper with the components at their approximate physical locations. This gives me the number and colors of the wires I have to use. Then, on the bike, I lay out the main wires, which are the ones going from the back to the front of the bike. I pass them in a suitable heat shrink tube and then to every location adding the required terminals and disconnects. I always add one or two extra wires from the back (battery area) to the front (usually headlight shell) just in case something must be added later. When everything is done and I am satisfied everything works as it should, I use a heat gun and shrink all the loose heat shrinkable tubing in place.

As always, YMMV, but this has worked well for me, makes for a tighter less obtrusive harness.

Jean
 
Jeandr said:
rbt11548 said:
swooshdave said:
Is the stock kill switch normally open or closed?

Closed to make contact

What is the Main Switch? The ignition? There is a light switch and a Dip Switch. I guess that's what all the buttons on the handlebars are for...

The Main ,or Ignition switch to me is the switch that takes the key.

What is the R/H (right hand I know) switch? If that is the HI beam flash switch, then the diagram is wrong. That switch should be wired (as on the diagram Swooshdave posted and mine) to activate the hi-beam relay. It will only do so IF the lights are OFF or if the lights are ON, but on LOW beam.

Jean
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hi Jean,
On the MK3, the ignition switch when turned to the "Lights" position feeds the r/h switch which is on "park" until you move the r/h switch up to the "head" position, this switch when turned to "head" then feeds the L/h unit where the Main & dip switches are; not shown in the simplified diagram of the L/H switch unit are the flasher / horn switch, or indicator switch.
Robert
 
Hi Dave,

During my Mk3 rebuild last year I rewired the bike with a new harness designed and fabbed by me. I started with the original schematics and preserved the original wire color coding and grounding scheme (it's still positive ground to allow for the assimilator) but removed the legacy parts of the original harness and allowed for my electrical enhancements. From this I constructed the two harness diagrams (Main and Ignition) and then wired the bike and confirmed the diagrams. My wiring is specific to a Mk3 with the usual goodies (Pazon ignition and coil, SPARX alternator and regulator, relays, and a fuse block) and a replacement 4-position ignition switch (the schematic for the original switch is shown as well). I used a three-point grounding scheme, with the frame as a redundant ground only.

You may find these diagrams useful, as they are proved in the assembly of the bike and are easy to read. I've attached the low-resolution diagrams below (I seem to be at a PhotoBucket limit) to give you a flavor for the full size (1100 x 800) diagrams that you can actually read, so if you find them interesting, contact me off-post and I'll email you the original .gif files.


Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)



Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)
 
kwb210, I went through all of this years and years ago and you are getting great ideas. Jeander's last post is very important and logical. I go to the local thrift store and purchase a used white interior door for about a buck, a 2.8 is fine, and lay the old harness out on it using small nails, then draw and lable. I use positive ground and the factory color codes via British Wiring in 14 guage.
When you lay it out this way you can visualize the changes you will want to make, such as leaving out the interpol wiring and adding your relays. I also use connectors refered to as "twist Locks" which makes any changes a simple issue.
I have also used this method for Bevel Ducks and my 907.
jt
 
swooshdave said:
That is a great plan. I will wait until I get all the parts on the bike and follow this method. I'm going with the philosophy of relays and LEDs and neg ground. Oh, and turnsignals. Which is why I am taking the extra time to work these wiring plans over now. There are bunch of plans out there but they never seem to have all three of these features in one place.
Click to expand...

Holy cow, I had a lot of typos in my post. :oops:

Anyway, I beat my head against the wall for months trying to figure out how to approach it so I just said "screw it" and I jumped in with both feet and just did it. I am not using any relays what so ever, so my harness was probably much easier to make for me than yours will for you, but it will come together. I thought of the wire as a hose (thanks CNW Matt for that idea) and the water is the elctricity. It made me able to understand the process and flow of electricity better which helped me plan out the harness and also made it easier to connect the dots.
 
I'm not sure why, but this thread appears to be suffering from some technical problems at the moment?
 
rick in seattle said:
Hi Dave,

You may find these diagrams useful, as they are proved in the assembly of the bike and are easy to read. I've attached the low-resolution diagrams below (I seem to be at a PhotoBucket limit) to give you a flavor for the full size (1100 x 800) diagrams that you can actually read, so if you find them interesting, contact me off-post and I'll email you the original .gif files.
Click to expand...

Can you just post the full size on your Photobucket?
 
L.A.B. said:
I'm not sure why, but this thread appears to be suffering from some technical problems at the moment?
Click to expand...

If you're talking about my electrical skills, I think that's already been established. :mrgreen:
 
swooshdave said:
If you're talking about my electrical skills, I think that's already been established.
Click to expand...

No, (you're doing fine!). I know my message at the top of page 2 disappeared for a while?

Also Coco posted a message which (for me at least) hasn't shown up in the thread after katescottageiom's post - but it's there in the "post a reply" topic review?

Coco's message:
______________________________________________________________________________

by Coco » 11 Feb 2010, 19:31

swooshdave wrote:
That is a great plan. I will wait until I get all the parts on the bike and follow this method. I'm going with the philosophy of relays and LEDs and neg ground. Oh, and turnsignals. Which is why I am taking the extra time to work these wiring plans over now. There are bunch of plans out there but they never seem to have all three of these features in one place.
Click to expand...

Holy cow, I had a lot of typos in my post.

Anyway, I beat my head against the wall for months trying to figure out how to approach it so I just said "screw it" and I jumped in with both feet and just did it. I am not using any relays what so ever, so my harness was probably much easier to make for me than yours will for you, but it will come together. I thought of the wire as a hose (thanks CNW Matt for that idea) and the water is the elctricity. It made me able to understand the process and flow of electricity better which helped me plan out the harness and also made it easier to connect the dots.
__________________________________________________________
 
Strange indeed.

My posts are usually clogged with crap anyway so it's probably a good thing it didn't show up. :D
 
LAB, there is a chance his reply is sitting in a edit screen, I wonder if that would do it?

I'm assuming there are 5 distinct circuits:
Ignition
Lighting
Turn Signals
Brake Lights
Power

And that all of these should be treated complete separate. Is that right?

Next up on my list is Turn Signals.

I'm assuming using something like this from British Cycle.
Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)


And wire it like this:
Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)
 
Sorry, Dave

The original 1100 x 800 pixtle image uploads into Photobucket as a 120 x 60 ? imagette. At that point the resolution is fried, and resizing does nothing. I'll fiddle with it again later; my photo images seem to do ok. Must not like the .gif format. Anyway, I'm happy to sent the originals out via email.
 
rick in seattle said:
Sorry, Dave

The original 1100 x 800 pixtle image uploads into Photobucket as a 120 x 60 ? imagette. At that point the resolution is fried, and resizing does nothing. I'll fiddle with it again later; my photo images seem to do ok. Must not like the .gif format. Anyway, I'm happy to sent the originals out via email.
Click to expand...

Might test with converting the .gif to .jpg and see what happens.
 
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