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rick in seattle said:Dave,
Try these direst links to get readable images of my Mk3 harness diagrams.
Wiring for Super Dummies (Me!)
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So on the Lighting diagram, who missed the taillight? Where does that go?
Added tail light and relay for tail light. Relay might be overkill here.
And Brake Light circuit:
I assume since there haven't been too many comments either folks are bored with my doodles or I'm getting good at this. :mrgreen:
Added tail light and relay for tail light. Relay might be overkill here.
And Brake Light circuit:
I assume since there haven't been too many comments either folks are bored with my doodles or I'm getting good at this. :mrgreen:
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Power and Horn. I think that's it.
grandpaul
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On my Blue monoshocker, I made up a simple harness from scratch with relays for the starter and horn only. Everything else doesn't draw enough amps to need a relay (in my opinion).
I individually fused each circuit with a modern mini-blade (6) fuse panel and a 25 amp Buss automatic circuit breaker on the main "hot" from the battery to the fuse panel. (no turn signals needed in Texas on pre-75 bikes)
I'll post a .jpg image of the AutoCad file tomorrow.
By the way, I never knew I loved electricity & wiring so much, 'till I out-paced the U.S.Navy B.E.& E. class (5 weeks for a 6-week class, with a score of 98). I don't concern myself with factory wiring diagrams any more, I print out my own color-coded diagrams after making my own harnesses with clean simple runs and a tad bit of slack to re-make the end connections in the future if the need arises. Start with the charging system, then the ignition system, then the lights, then horn and accessories.
I individually fused each circuit with a modern mini-blade (6) fuse panel and a 25 amp Buss automatic circuit breaker on the main "hot" from the battery to the fuse panel. (no turn signals needed in Texas on pre-75 bikes)
I'll post a .jpg image of the AutoCad file tomorrow.
By the way, I never knew I loved electricity & wiring so much, 'till I out-paced the U.S.Navy B.E.& E. class (5 weeks for a 6-week class, with a score of 98). I don't concern myself with factory wiring diagrams any more, I print out my own color-coded diagrams after making my own harnesses with clean simple runs and a tad bit of slack to re-make the end connections in the future if the need arises. Start with the charging system, then the ignition system, then the lights, then horn and accessories.
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grandpaul said:
So is something like this overkill or just right?
Headlight doesn't draw enough amps? I'm probably not going to need relays for LED turnsignals and tail light. But head light and horn? I think it can't hurt.
Dave, what happened :?: did you by any chance prick a finger with a relay contact :?: If you did, you have relayosis and sadly I fear the only cure is a dose of common sense :wink:
FWIW, I think relays, even for lights is overkill, especially with all new wiring and all new switches. On my café's wiring, I used only one relay and I used one only because my main switch is a small push-on/push-off switch not designed for high current, everything else is new so I am not expecting any high resistance contacts or corroded contact points. Don't forget that adding components may make your bike less reliable since you are adding more points of failure.
KISS, works every time :lol:
Jean
FWIW, I think relays, even for lights is overkill, especially with all new wiring and all new switches. On my café's wiring, I used only one relay and I used one only because my main switch is a small push-on/push-off switch not designed for high current, everything else is new so I am not expecting any high resistance contacts or corroded contact points. Don't forget that adding components may make your bike less reliable since you are adding more points of failure.
KISS, works every time :lol:
Jean
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Jeandr said:
I'm probably going to use old crappy stock handlebar switches. Sure the wires will be new and there will be real grounds and not using the frame for a ground so the circuits should be clean. But I got to drawing the circuits and was so happy I figured out the relays that I just added them everywhere. :mrgreen:
I'll go back and clean up the drawings.
Hortons Norton
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Yea but you will notice a huge difference in your horn and lights if you do use them, New relays are a lot better than those of years ago.
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grandpaul said:
+1
A friend of mine had ignition problems, similar to what you get with broken Boyer lead wires, that he eventually traced to a relay in the ignition circuit. He removed the relay.
Relays are a good idea for the headlight and horn though. I bought one of Greg's relay kits for my 850 and am plannng to wire it in for the upcoming season. Currently all I have on that bike is ignition, brake lights, and charging system. I've taken an incremental approach to wiring the bike. Wiring the entire thing from scratch, never having done it before, was too intimidating for me.
Debby
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Diablouph said:
OmniGraffle
It's a Visio-like program for the Mac. I use it at work for everything from process flow diagrams to website wireframes.
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debby said:
I don't have a choice or I'm not as smart as you. Take your pick.
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grandpaul said:Positive Ground system-
Negative Ground system (31 strands of wire total, including 2 eminating from alternator stator, and short jumper from one coil to the other)-
Nice, question, what turns on the tail light when you turn on your headlight?
And did you ground through the frame or run them all back to the battery/head?
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grandpaul said:
Is that how the stock wiring works too? Tail light on with ignition?
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swooshdave said:
No.
http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norto ... p/151.html
Presumably, this "tail lamp on with ignition" is a later legal (Texas) requirement?
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L.A.B. said:
So then the tail lamp should be wired like this (ignoring the relay)?
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swooshdave said:
Yes.
The original (72-on) key switch had four positions (not to be confused with the terminal numbers 1-4): [Parking lights]-[Off]-[Ignition]-[Ignition with lights].
So, in the standard system, the pilot/tail/instrument lights were all part of a separate circuit wired from key switch terminal 3 (Brown/Green [NG]) which allowed pilot/tail/ins. to be selected independently for use as parking lights with the key at position 1.
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