When is a fork brace required?

Hoop type on ebay right now

http://www.ebay.com/itm/norton-commando ... ca&vxp=mtr

The smart fork braces are made in three parts and the centre section has slotted holes so the forks don't bind - not something that I would fit to my bike.

acotrel said:

The smart fork braces are made in three parts and the centre section has slotted holes so the forks don't bind - not something that I would fit to my bike.

Click to expand...

5 pieces, clamps split in 2 pieces around fork leg so you don't have to completely strip the front end to fit

My old hard drive died with RGM photo's on it so no can show no more but here's old thread of others photo's to keep ya interested.
fork-braces-t8938-15.html


http://www.ntnoa.org/britbike.htm

I have never seen up close or handled one of the Norman Hyde type braces so excuse my ignorance. Since the Norman Hyde type braces screw into the top of each slider, I do not understand how they can "brace," I mean why they don't thy just twist on the threads? I see from pictures that they have a clamp but that clamp does not appear to clamp the slider but just the bushing that screws into the slider, right? Next question, is there an extra bushing below the new fork seal?

Note the eccentric nature of the inner brace sleeves to try and match the stanchion separation variations to grip the sliders but not the stanchions.

Here's another good shot borrowed from ebay:

The shims are vital part, sort of, as they are used to allow the eccentrics to remain in position and get proper clamp force when the rest is nipped down hard-ish on seats. Only takes itty bit of eccentric twist in this process to bind up the works. RGM kit came with paper ones, exactly like the ones found in Roadholders parts numbers, shims.

Thanks Steve.

Another thing -

When we apply the front brake and the forks twist, does not that twist bind and inhibit the forks' action?
I'd think so.

Twisted forks likely have more friction than parallel forks. It would follow that braced forks have less twist and therefore less friction, and perhaps better action.

To say that the brace might bind them up really is to say that the brace is mis-designed or mis-installed, not that the idea of the brace is mistaken.

Another yep xbs'r, if you can brake hard enough in leaned turning conditions to twist a fork to matter then a brace helps. As straight forward as it seems bracing in the conditions it matters is tricky in practice. Try it and see as you are likely to actually strain forks to be noticed, which I respect but scares me on un-tamed isolastics. Another reason I tend to only brake upright as turning briskly is risky enough w/o adding two skills and 2 loads on same tire patch at once. My experience is based on sliding along on locked front tire thank goodness some run off room still on pavement to get off brake and back in line in time. Some times can STOMP rear brake and pop up a save off rear when front goes away. There is some saving Grace in going fast enough bike don't instantly trip out on only half way stupid mistakes, so ballistics working for ya as much as against ya -

It don't sound like you've tried hobot zig zags faster and faster tighter and tighter on slow leak in tires to get into fork delays and spring backs about the time isolastics doing their thing to0. There's 3 stunts Peels done I've not yet seen on video contests. Ride a locked front for bike lenghts, pull off a barrel roll [crashed immediately after] and do a bunny hop w/o leaving my seat or a wheelie first and not all lined up niether...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaMvflp-55o

xbacksideslider said:

Another thing -

When we apply the front brake and the forks twist, does not that twist bind and inhibit the forks' action?
I'd think so.

Twisted forks likely have more friction than parallel forks. It would follow that braced forks have less twist and therefore less friction, and perhaps better action.

To say that the brace might bind them up really is to say that the brace is mis-designed or mis-installed, not that the idea of the brace is mistaken.

Click to expand...

I tend to agree with this although there are a lot of comments by seasoned riders that seem to disagree with what seems to be correct. The set up of the bike for the conditions it will be used for seems to be the most critical factor. How the isolastics come into play also is confusing. If not properly set up to specification, then there is the potential for problems irregardless of whether there is a fork brace or not...maybe the lack of twist with a fork brace will cause "loose" isolatics to be more of a problem, but then the question is "why are the isolastics out of spec in the first place". I still think that a properly set up fork brace where friction or sticking of the sliders does not come into play on a properly set up bike should perform better than without a brace...but I may be wrong given all the negative comments posted here. I think too many "tune" their bikes for different conditions and thus the real answer is hard to find...those of us who think a fork brace has advantages just have to try it and see...proceeding with caution given the responses against it.