What year/model? What am I missing?




 
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Next up is this rear wheel. The project was finally delivered today. Looks like I’m missing a lot of components for this rear hub.
 

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Next up is this rear wheel. The project was finally delivered today. Looks like I’m missing a lot of components for this rear hub.
A thread you may find helpful:
Type "Front and Rear Bearing Removal(2010)" in the search bar. Post #25 has a drawing of the Rear hub assembly which I found less confusing than the Parts Catalogue exploded view to show the components.
Sorry,I don't know how to provide a direct link.
 
Sorry,I don't know how to provide a direct link.
However, that's for the cush rear hub and disc front wheel, the 1970 type in the pictures is the bolt-up rear hub.

 
1970 type in the pictures is the bolt-up rear hub.

bolt up 68-70 (vs cush hub 71-74)

cush hub 71-74)




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i wouldn't go with an unknown history rear axle & there is a 1 piece axle option



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if the rear brake cable snaps, the pedal assy can swing down to the ground, this part prevents that


 
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Alrighty - first step is to get this motor apart to see if it is salvageable. So far I've aquired some correct year yokes, later style forks and sliders with a norton caliper, a used complete rear hub.

Happy to keep this build thread going if you all are interested. I'm pretty sure this bike was raced back in the day. Might get lucky and find some performance parts. The paint job has Bardahl oil inlays. A sponsor?

In preparation for disassembly I think it would be a good idea to get a set of whitworth sockets and spanners as well as any special tools needed.

Any recommendations on whitworth socket/spanner sets and from which sources?

Which special tools to get from Andover Norton for engine dissasembly?
 

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Alrighty - first step is to get this motor apart to see if it is salvageable. So far I've aquired some correct year yokes, later style forks and sliders with a norton caliper, a used complete rear hub.
Excellent start. You got the correct yokes for that frame and properly navigated the front brake upgrade parts. You will need a hydralic master cylinder at some point to work the disc. I don't like the original stock master cylinder that has a screw on top... It leaked a few times over the years and ruined the paint job on my fuel tank every time. Eventually I got disgusted, sold the original to someone here who needed one and I bought the replacement brake lever from "Madass140" who lives and manufactures parts in the phillipines. It's got a better hydraulic ratio on the lever so the brake lever is more powerful. I use the "1/2 inch master cylinder kit" which is half way down this page... He also makes a full kit with a disc and a improved caliper if you are up for spending money on "jewelry" as well as just what you need to get on the road.


Madass, (Don) also makes some really nice stuff which is more expensive than his brake MC Kit, which is a bargin at $150. He makes an aftermarket rear wheel that looks just like the stock wheel, but has modern cush rubber damped sprocket and a one piece "through" axle to replace the stock norton rear axle set up which had been known to occasionally break... The rear sets he makes are copies of the dunstall style ones. I have a set on my bike and they are solidly made and not cheapo looking... Anyway, look around his site...
 
In preparation for disassembly I think it would be a good idea to get a set of whitworth sockets and spanners as well as any special tools needed.

You will need a slim 1/4"W socket and extension to remove the two upper head nuts and #1 bolt (preferably 3/8" square drive as that's more useful for working on a Commando). Slacken all head fasteners except for bolt #1 then slacken #1 (see manual) and the head should lift squarely, same when refitting the head pull it down with #1.

06.4297 for removing the engine and camshaft sprockets.

Clutch tool.

Preferbly the intermediatre spindle support plate.

Maybe.
 
Excellent start. You got the correct yokes for that frame and properly navigated the front brake upgrade parts. You will need a hydralic master cylinder at some point to work the disc. I don't like the original stock master cylinder that has a screw on top... It leaked a few times over the years and ruined the paint job on my fuel tank every time. Eventually I got disgusted, sold the original to someone here who needed one and I bought the replacement brake lever from "Madass140" who lives and manufactures parts in the phillipines. It's got a better hydraulic ratio on the lever so the brake lever is more powerful. I use the "1/2 inch master cylinder kit" which is half way down this page... He also makes a full kit with a disc and a improved caliper if you are up for spending money on "jewelry" as well as just what you need to get on the road.


Madass, (Don) also makes some really nice stuff which is more expensive than his brake MC Kit, which is a bargin at $150. He makes an aftermarket rear wheel that looks just like the stock wheel, but has modern cush rubber damped sprocket and a one piece "through" axle to replace the stock norton rear axle set up which had been known to occasionally break... The rear sets he makes are copies of the dunstall style ones. I have a set on my bike and they are solidly made and not cheapo looking... Anyway, look around his site...
How do I purchase some of this stuff? There was any an option in the website
 
Am I able to use a later style center stand and kick stand for this early model frame? It was mentioned that the early model center stand and kick stands do not work very well
 
early cradle

newer - Norton 750 / 850 - 1973 incl. 850Mk1A




not sure why they are showing 2 stands, other than hardware mounting bits come with 1 vs a bare stand, then this 1 described
06.4874
CENTRE STAND KIT (750&850) (06.3052)


this one described
ENGINE NO.141783 ONWARDS
 
not sure why they are showing 2 stands, other than hardware mounting bits come with 1 vs a bare stand, then this 1 described

The early stand was different (see below) and the eye dimension was also different the latest version 06.3051 early stand now has the extended plates.

What year/model? What am I missing?
 
hope everyone had a great holiday. I’m having trouble figuring out which side covers will fit my frame. Andover has a bunch of types listed for early models but searching around the forum it looks like only some side covers fit certain years.

The project came with a centrally mounted oil tank. I hear there is a hard to find side cover with a rotolock hole. Is that the kind I need? Or will these aluminum covers fit?

 
The project came with a centrally mounted oil tank. I hear there is a hard to find side cover with a rotolock hole. Is that the kind I need?

They're for the early Fastback.

Or will these aluminum covers fit?

Those are for the Interstate.

The central oil tank models ('S' type and 1970 Roadster) had a RH access panel and fixed LH panel.


What year/model? What am I missing?
 
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The early stand was different (see below) and the eye dimension was also different the latest version 06.3051 early stand now has the extended plates.

What year/model? What am I missing?
Regardless of authenticity you don’t want the early stand . There is a reason they changed it - they fail. Ask me how I know…
 
They're for the early Fastback.



Those are for the Interstate.

The central oil tank models ('S' type and 1970 Roadster) had a RH access panel and fixed LH panel.


What year/model? What am I missing?
I’m learning. Technically my frame number is a 1970 fastback. All pictures of a 1970 fastback point to having the more square looking covers.

Are the roadster and fastback considered the same thing?
 
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