oh dave you start bike wearing flipflops??? must have feets o iron
With a Combat cam you can start it with your hand. I'm not sure if I can with a fresh rebuild but when the engine had a few miles on it and was warm.
oh dave you start bike wearing flipflops??? must have feets o iron
I can start mine barefootoh dave you start bike wearing flipflops??? must have feets o iron
I am an idiot. My bike sits with a bolt stuffed up its oil feed pipe until I am ready to race. Then I reconnect the pipe and start the motor. I have still forgotten to tighten the clip on the return pipe and ended up with oil pissing onto the ground. I have thought about using a cock with a switch to disconnect the ignition. But everything I think of would introduce another opportunity for failure.
I had AMR do their ball type valve mod and oil pump mod as well. It will still wet sump but at a MUCH lower rate. Happy customer!Well then I'm an idiot too! After my motor blew up I ditched the one way valve, had AMR re-do the timing cover and install seals in the oil pump. My Norton is wet sump free. It can sit unused for two months and there is minimal loss of oil level in the tank.
Ride On
Dave
I had AMR do their ball type valve mod and oil pump mod as well. It will still wet sump but at a MUCH lower rate. Happy customer!
Regards,
~998cc
Just ride the bloody thing and not worry about it, if I do let my Norton sit for some time (as I have 2 other bikes) I check the oil level the night before and if its down I just pull the drain plug and refill the tank next day before I go out on the bike, 30 seconds to unscrew the drain plug and another 30 seconds to put it in and a minute to refill the oil tank, but I only need to do that if it sit for over 6 months, to me no big deal, mine has only wet sumped 2 times in 46 years of owning it, if I let its sit there is other maintenance to do while you drain the oil out of the sump before riding it anyway.
Ashley
Jim,I have a reed valve on the 750 left side case mount and I see some oil run through it on start up after non use for a week or so. So I guess some oil gets splashed up to and pushed through the hollow cam etc. But I've never had a main seal blow out ever - even before the reed valve.
I'm sure locating it low in the case would move more oil.
It takes you longer than 30 seconds to find the wrench, find the pan, and then crawl under the bike. So I doubt you’re riding in a minute. I’m sure a video will prove me wrong.
Still have not heard a good reason not to fit a manual valve with an ignition defeat switch. Cost for mine was maybe $15 in hardware store parts and a micro switch. Cannot start up unless valve is fully open. No sumping at all.
Its a given that the combat type pumps out more oil after wet sumping simply because its located low in the sump. With a clear braided hose you can view the oil being pumped out and then clearing. You can make this conversion to any Commando but it requires drilling 3 holes as shown below (Maney case example). Milling is not necessary because a fiberglass reinforced silicone gasket is provided to prevent leaks.Jim,
You also do one for the combat type. what tests have you done with that unit.
Or who has one that can report?
T
The best reason to avoid a contraption like that is the micro switch can fail. As long as you trust the switch you’ll be fine. How good of quality is your switch?
I bought one of those contraptions off of flea bay. It was a cheap piece of crap. I threw it away and bought a proper one from Feked. I test it by
turning the oil supply off. Voila, the engine shuts off.
Speaking of dubious engineering, how good of quality is your oil pump seal?
True. But consequence of switch failure would be no start as it is a N.O. type, unlikely to fail in a closed condition. Easy to bypass it if out on the road and it fails.The best reason to avoid a contraption like that is the micro switch can fail. As long as you trust the switch you’ll be fine. How good of quality is your switch?