Webby's Triton build
- Thread starter Webby03
- Start date
Gday Webby, just looking again at your pics, I see and read that you're mounting the ignition switch on the right side. My thoughts are that it should go on the left side seeing this is the side you usually hop on or off the bike, also the kick stand is on the left side because of this reason. I usually approach a bike from the left and put in ignition key so to me it would be a more convenient place? You hop on a horse from the left aswell, wondering if this is derivative?
The battery placement and alloy plate looks good.
Foxy
The battery placement and alloy plate looks good.
Foxy
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2009
- Messages
- 2,979
Jeandr said:Webby03 said:It's held in place with an old O ring
That "O" ring does not look very strong, on a bump, that big battery will go flying.
Don't mind me, I always try to overbuild :wink:
Jean
It doesn't have to be strong. It only has to stop the battery wandering out towards the back of the bike. The tinny bits hold the battery down.
Foxy said:
Thanks Foxy,
Yes, you are correct, you get on a bike from the left, I too imagine this is a leftover from the days when we all rode horses, just like the same reason you and the Brits and yourselves drive on the left, this, in the day was to keep your right hand free to carry a lance (I've no idea what you did in that era if you were left handed!).
Anyway, back to bikes, I choose the left side as the clutch lever is on the left, so if you have any trouble getting the bike into neutral you can keep the clutch pulled in and just shut the bike off, I'm still undecided if I will mount a kill switch or not, as I'll be using EI, you can't just wire the switch to earth like with a points system.
Webby
Triton Thrasher said:Jeandr said:Webby03 said:It's held in place with an old O ring
That "O" ring does not look very strong, on a bump, that big battery will go flying.
Don't mind me, I always try to overbuild :wink:
Jean
It doesn't have to be strong. It only has to stop the battery wandering out towards the back of the bike. The tinny bits hold the battery down.
Quite true TT, most of the stress from the battery would be taken by the metal. But I do think Jean has a point, if anything a thicker O ring would look better
Webby
Foxy said:Gday Guys, sorry for the highjack but, I could have done with your help refurbishing my other love! One Baby Lakes Bi-plane. New stits nearly finished then the paint, cant wait as Im having major withdrawls!!
Foxy :mrgreen: :twisted:
Cool aircraft Foxy
What is it?
I don't think you'll be needing my speciality on it, I do Non Destructive Testing, (X ray and Ultrasonic inspections for example) Not much call for these sort of inspections on non pressurized aircraft.
Webby
bwolfie said:
Nice, I like the Citations, I used to look after a couple of them in the UK and Belgium. One of my clients here in Bordeaux has recently bought one for medivac flights, hopefully I'll get some work out of it.
As for the SD360, I'm originally from where they were built, They're a good aircraft and have flown on many between the UK and the Channel Islands years ago. Although the only maintenance I've done was a silly surface wave ultrasonic inspection on the elevator attach fittings, I really don't think the inspection worked very well! I did a couple of weeks contract work in Shorts (now Bombardier) a couple of years ago, it wasn't fun at all! If you're used to working on the line or in a hangar, a factory is a bit of a culture shock
You're lucky you can still get old parts, most places over here in Europe now insist they are destroyed so they cannot be reused, shame as I've seen plenty of good stuff being cut up
Webby
Cool, they're good aircraft, there's still plenty flying the mail night flights over here in Europe.
Changing the subject,
I'll have to refuse your kind offer of the ignition switch, by the time I would have paid for shipping etc. from the US it would be cheaper to buy a new one. But please let me know if you're selling anything else, you never know
Webby
Changing the subject,
I'll have to refuse your kind offer of the ignition switch, by the time I would have paid for shipping etc. from the US it would be cheaper to buy a new one. But please let me know if you're selling anything else, you never know
Webby
Gday Webby, my plane is a home built (not by me),smaller version of the Great Lakes, hence the name Baby Lakes. Its extremely agile and rated at 12+ 12 - g,s, cant destroy it in the air but can make one self alot wooooozzy! Loops, rolls etc are a real joy and frightening unsuspecting surrounding farmers is a Buzz! :mrgreen:
The experience of flying this machine is awesome, just like strapping wings on your back.
Foxy
The experience of flying this machine is awesome, just like strapping wings on your back.
Foxy
Webby03 said:
While I have some machine tools, I do a lot of work with these "woodworking" tools. I use my radial arm saw to cut aluminum plates and bar stock. At first, I used an 80 tooth finishing blade, but lately I found some carbide non-ferrous blades at my favorite surplus place for a pittance.
To cut curves, I bought a 9" plastic band saw, I use 15 tooth 1/8" blades and while it is not super fast, it does the job better than a jig saw.
This band sander is invaluable to do final shaping
Jean
grandpaul
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I have a friend who builds custom band grinders & sanders for knife making; they can be used to make anything. He knocked out my sidestand mounting lug in about 10 minutes, including welding.
Very nice rigs with variable speed drives (digital frequency modulators).
He's got one model with three different working wheels on one rig; each wheel is a different diameter, to work with different size stock / finishes. Also, it rotates from a flat table to a vertical one. Pretty trick stuff.
Very nice rigs with variable speed drives (digital frequency modulators).
He's got one model with three different working wheels on one rig; each wheel is a different diameter, to work with different size stock / finishes. Also, it rotates from a flat table to a vertical one. Pretty trick stuff.
If only I had the space
I agree with you both that a belt sander is handy, I use the one at work in the evenings or weekends (once the management have gone home)
But it is one of my top ten tools to buy, that, a pillar drill, a band saw, a small MIG welder and a small lathe to fab up studs, spacers etc.
Wait and see, if I move back to Belgium I might be able to get a bigger garage. In the meantime my Girlfriend has already moved home to Belgium so I guess I could just move the bikes into the living room to make space
Webby
I agree with you both that a belt sander is handy, I use the one at work in the evenings or weekends (once the management have gone home)
But it is one of my top ten tools to buy, that, a pillar drill, a band saw, a small MIG welder and a small lathe to fab up studs, spacers etc.
Wait and see, if I move back to Belgium I might be able to get a bigger garage. In the meantime my Girlfriend has already moved home to Belgium so I guess I could just move the bikes into the living room to make space
Webby
I had a little time this week and received my speedo drive and rear brake plate in the post so it was time to finalize the position of the motor in the frame.
I borrowed a laser plumb line from a friend as I figured it work pretty well, it did!
I stuck the laser to the top of the head stock and making sure it was level tried to figure out where to mount the motor, as it turns out central is pretty good, the vertical split crankcases make life easy.
In this photo you can just see the laser beams along the central crankcase joint and over the centerline mark I'd put on the swingarm.
I put a mark on the rear hub at 86mm measured from the edge of the brake drum and set it central in the swingarm. You may ask why 86mm? Because that's the standard Triumph rear wheel offset.
As I was there I had a quick look at the chain run and alignment, looks pretty good, I'll need to install the gearbox output shaft and front sprocket to be sure. One thing's sure, I've more than enough room to run a WM4 and 120 section rear tire.
Webby
I borrowed a laser plumb line from a friend as I figured it work pretty well, it did!
I stuck the laser to the top of the head stock and making sure it was level tried to figure out where to mount the motor, as it turns out central is pretty good, the vertical split crankcases make life easy.
In this photo you can just see the laser beams along the central crankcase joint and over the centerline mark I'd put on the swingarm.
I put a mark on the rear hub at 86mm measured from the edge of the brake drum and set it central in the swingarm. You may ask why 86mm? Because that's the standard Triumph rear wheel offset.
As I was there I had a quick look at the chain run and alignment, looks pretty good, I'll need to install the gearbox output shaft and front sprocket to be sure. One thing's sure, I've more than enough room to run a WM4 and 120 section rear tire.
Webby
Just ask for the kitchen pass, all will be good!! Althou I did just roll mine into my basment workshop while she was at work, She found out after the fact, but was cool with it. I love having a fully exposed basment and a patio door. House heat all winter.
