Webby's Triton build

I sorted out my chain alignment today.
I took the old gearbox bearing and ground a couple of thou off the outside diameter to make it a tight sliding fit in the housing and then bolted up the output shaft and sprocket.
By eye I had it pretty good, but to be exactly in line I moved the rear hub over another 3mm, so my rear wheel offset will now be 89mm.
I also measured up the hub and the motor for all the spacers I'll need. Now all I need to do is sweet talk the machinist at work again! (That won't be easy, he's in a competition for the best machinist in France and is in the middle of fabbing up a sort of stainless (inox) rugby ball that consists of what looks like a thousand interconnecting parts!)

Webby
 
bwolfie said:
Just ask for the kitchen pass, all will be good!! Althou I did just roll mine into my basment workshop while she was at work, She found out after the fact, but was cool with it. I love having a fully exposed basment and a patio door. House heat all winter.
Click to expand...

I'm afraid my kitchen's too small, but it regulary gets used as it's next to the garage for cleaning small parts and making templates and stuff like that. My living room on the other hand is huge (even with the furniture I would comfortably have room to park 3 or 4 bikes) and has a patio door. Her motto is "I don't give a sh*t what you do with you bike when I'm not here, but everything better be back to normal when I return"
So when I get back from Belgium next week (and the Missus is gone), the Triton's moving into the living room :)

Webby
 
Tonight I fitted the old shocks that used to be on my Bonnie to the Triton, they are cheap rubbish that offer sod all damping but they will do until I get the thing on it's wheels, then I can use them as a guide as to what length of shocks to order.
I've also fitted half a dozen Triumph seat rubbers to the seat, this was to make the seat sit better on the frame, also I didn't like the idea of the seat sitting directly on the frame tubes.
Now, the front of the seat is perfect, but the rear doe's not quite clear the rear frame loop (fabricated by the frame's PO) so now I'll have to remove the rear section of the seat cover and trim down the seat hump by 1/2". I'll do it next week when I get back from Belgium. The next time I'll buy a bare seat base, it would be a lot easier!
Pics to follow next week.

Webby
 
I don't think a tastefully done chain tensioner distracts from a custom bike, and it definitely solves issues that can come up.

Oops! Wrong thread...
 
grandpaul said:
I don't think a tastefully done chain tensioner distracts from a custom bike, and it definitely solves issues that can come up.

Oops! Wrong thread...
Click to expand...

It's all relevant GPZ,
I think that it's as important to document the thought process as it is to document the build :mrgreen:

I agree with you that a good chain tensioner doe's not distract from a custom bike, but I don't think one would look "right" on a Triton. I would assume that we wouldn't need one anyway, I've never seen a Triton, or any other featherbed based special for that matter fitted with a chain tensioner.

Webby
 
On bikes that dont have tensioners fitted, in certain areas of the suspension travel the chain is likely to very loose indeed. However must people dont check the chain tension throughout the full travel of the suspension, and simply adjust the chain with the suspension at full extension. This means the chain will become bowstring tight at a certain point, which is something that can cause big problems in some cases.

Its easy to check this, as all you need to do is to get the bike up on a stand of some sort, with the rear wheel clear of the ground, remove the rear units, and refit one with the spring removed, and check chain tension throughout the travel of the rear wheel. At the tight spot, adjust chain to proper tension, and then recheck with suspension fully extended. In most cases this will mean an very slack chain, that would work much better with a tensioner fitted.
 
Thanks for the info Carbon,
I'll bear that in mind when I get round to fitting my chain.

Webby
 
good morning,
have just stumbled upon your forum and have joined up. am enjoying reading your progress
i have recently finished a triton rebuild and will post some pics if somebody could tell me how to do it.
 
well it sort of worked you can view the photos on the web.
finished the bike about 9 months ago
it a 61 slimline frame with 67 T120R motor
I have rebuilt the motor with a Morgo big bor kit to 750
has carilo rods
E3134 cams inlet & outlet
balanced crank
Mikunu carbs
and is an absolute thrill to ride
 
triton750 said:
not sure if this will work

Webby's Triton build
Click to expand...

Yep, it works alright. Dang nice.
 
That's one nice bike Triton 750.
If mine turns out half as good I'll be happy!
Are those Dresda engine plates and a Dresda swing arm?
Out of interest, what size rear tyre are you running?
Sorry for all the questions!

Webby
 
This evening I cut the seat hump down by half an inch to clear the frame loop. It turned out pretty well, the pics were rubbish though, I'll try again tomorrow in daylight.

Webby
 
https://picasaweb.google.com/1141323868 ... 2889055954
just a bit of history, I bought the bike as already built, as above when i got it it didnt ride very nice and had a leeking push rod tube.
eventually i went to do the push rod tube seal and one thing lead to another and I re built the whole thing from top to bottom.

not sure about the plates looked up the paperwork i have and it just said engine plates to suit T120R I also have a Dommi racer if you asked me I would say they where Converta plates. after seeing you build the swing arm is definately a Dresda, the paperwork I had from previous owner only said swing arm!.
I am running a 120/90-18 rear tyre, runs very close to frame and chain but have not had a problem.
happy to to take some close ups on any thing if you would like.
 
Hi Triton 750,
Thanks for the info,
Looking at that last pic, those are definitely Dresda plates, the rear Converta plates only pick up on the outside of the motor, they don't use the bottom lug and aren't extended to use to hang the silencers, also the front ones are larger and don't use the exhaust hangar attachment.
If you have a look at GPZs Triton thread you'll see his plates are identical to yours.

Nice job on the bike, I think it looks a lot better now than in the before photo.
As for measurements, if you get time could you please measure from the swingarm pivot to the gearbox/clutch sprocket, just approximate measurements are good, so just from the centre of the clutch adjuster access plug to the swingarm.
I based my motor plates on Dresda's and I'm 99% sure I've got the motor in the right place but I'd like to be 100% sure.

Many Thanks

Webby
 
Triton 750, I forgot to mention my swingarm spindle to gearbox sprocket centres measure up at about 8 3/4"

Thanks

Webby
 
Gday Webby, I'vee seen for sale on ebay an 3" extended featherbed swing arm. Apparently this is done so you can fit a larger/fatter tyre. Just curious info!
Foxy
 
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