Webby's Triton build

Foxy said:

Gday Webby,
great stuff so far mate! I have a long term similar project underway. I definately will be last to complete mine, on a farm theres to much other maintenance and when I have a spare moment the last thing one wants to do is pick up spanners again, but I'll get there. I will be watching your build with great interest!

I just bought IKON 12 " shocks for my slim line, would have liked "Works" items but theres got to be limit as to how much you spend. I also have ground off the fender mounts on the fork sliders for that cleaner look. Currently fiddling with the Grimeca front hub when time allows.

Foxy

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Thanks Foxy
Not sure if you'll be the last to complete your build, I've set a deadline on this of my 40th birthday, so that will be in September 2014!. The project tends to go in fits and starts dependent upon time and money, my aim for this year is to try and finish the rolling chassis, I think it should be possible but the front end and alloy tanks are going to cost a fortune!
Have you posted details of you build here? I'd like to see them if you have. It's always good to compare notes. What Grimeca hub did you buy? I'm looking at buying a 230mm 4 LS, I'd like a Yamaha TZ but they're way over my budget.

All the best

Webby

Your 12" shocks should look good, if you look at my last photo of my swingarm mock up, the swingarm is tied at about 12" between centers.

Gday Webby ,
I'll have to get a break in the work load soon so I will start up my own thread (with pictures) on my build. Manx seat, Manx 5 gal tank and oil tank from John Williams of the tank shop, 920 kit in pots, 90 deg offset crank, Maney manifolds and g/Box outrigger, 35 mm FCRs, option of Sportster rear hub with cush drive or ridgid Trumpy conical hub like yours, 230 Grimeca front hub, Lansdowne kit, Tomiselli adjustable clipons, RMA cam chain adjuster, CNW crankcase vent to name some of the exspense so far. Im taking my time doing this as I dont want to cut corners a look back later on and wish I had waited till I could have afforded something better or nicer! :mrgreen:
Foxy

Salut Foxy,
I like your thinking!
I'll be going with the same front brake, the same clip ons and the landsdowne kit. (have a look at www.discovolonte.co.uk) they do a huge range of brakes, clip ons etc. and are the cheapest I've found so far. I'm going with a 3 gallon Lyta tank but I've yet to decide from where, there are several manufactures in the UK.
Can you get all these parts down in your part of the world, or are you ordering everything from the UK? If you are I'd hate to think about the cost of shipping, it's already costing me a fortune!
Is your offset crank coming from that bloke in Canada?

Sounds great!

Webby

Webby03 said:

(have a look at http://www.discovolonte.co.uk)

Webby

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Is it this?

http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/

Thanks TT, I cocked up the link That's the correct one!

I was a little bored yesterday, now, I've known since I got my frame that the frame spacer was not in the best condition, it's not quite straight.


And the drive side hole is elongated


I was thinking of repairing it, it's only a hollow tube, I was thinking of cutting the ends off, heating it and pressing a tube though it to straighten it and then weld up and repair the hole. Or buy a new one from Unity Equipe or RGM for 50 or 60 quid.

Then I had an idea, why not make one
After all, it's only two lugs and a tube, so I've decided to fab one up in alloy, I'll acquire a length of 1 1/4" bar stock from work and get it line bored by the machinist and then over to the welder to attach the lugs, how difficult can it be?
Well, making the lugs took me the best part of 6 hours! I have no machine tools, so I made them with nothing more than a jigsaw, an electric drill and a couple of rotary and hand files. If I had a machine shop, it would have taken me about an hour!

Yet another template


The lugs roughed out, I always start by drilling the pilot holes first, there's nothing worse than spending all day making a bracket only to drill a hole off center! I like to stick my pairs of brackets together to keep them identical, double sided tape for sticking down carpets is perfect for this.



The finished lugs, they just need the holes opened up to their final size, until then I'll leave them stuck together to ensure they're identical.


Now off to sweet talk the machinist and welder

Webby

I'm confused.
This is not a new state for me ...
But if the tube is steel, and I assume it is, and the lugs are aluminum, you're not going to weld them together.

Hi pbmw,
The original tube is just thin wall steel, but what I am doing is using some solid alloy bar stock that I'll get line bored, this should leave a wall thickness of about 1/4" ,this should make it considerably stronger/stiffer than the original and the lugs can be welded on as they're the same material.

Webby

The spacer tube / mount lug assembly is BOLTED between the frame webs.

grandpaul said:

The spacer tube / mount lug assembly is BOLTED between the frame webs.

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Yes, I know GPZ, that why the bar stock will be line bored to accept the though bolt. The lugs are to welded onto the bar which will bolt to the upper hole in the engine mounts. I've made the lugs thicker (1/4") but provided I position them so the distance between the outside surfaces are the same as the original everything will just drop into place. The rear mounts bolt on to the outside surfaces of the lugs.

Webby

Is your offset crank coming from that bloke in Canada?

Gday Webby, yes the crank is from Geoff Collins of http://offsetcrank.com/norton.htm . I know there are doubters about rephasing the crank, but I wanted something a bit different. The 920 being mounted rigid in the frame, I thought this could help reduce some vibes!
Its a bit like the guy with the small apendage, the hooker asked him who was he going to satisfy with that little thing, his reply was, himself! So really at the end of the day/ bike build, what matters is, you're satisfied with the end result and what others think is irrelevent. :mrgreen:

The spacer tube looks good.

Foxy

Hi Foxy,
I think the offset crank is a good idea, whilst the motor will make no more power, it should as you say reduce the vibes and also put the power down differently, were a standard Trumpet or Norton puts the power down like a big single, an offset crank motor should put the power down like a V Twin. As your going for the 90°, your bike should should like a Ducati

Webby

I finally got round to making my electrical panel this week.

Look carefully, there's a 3° bend in the plate to follow the curvature of the frame, maybe I need to get more often!


Now my battery has a new home, the holder will be lined in old inner tube rubber once it's painted.


It's held in place with an old O ring


View from the top


The ignition switch hole will be opened up once I know the diameter of my switch (I first need to buy one)


That leave's the regulator/rectifier to be mounted underneath and one more hole to be drilled for the tail light/license plate holder and mount a six way fuse box once I buy one.
I was planning on using a Trispark ignition with no separate box, but having read all the problems some of you have had I've now thinking Pazon or maybe a Power arc. Thankfully I've got the space here to mount plenty of additional stuff if required.

Webby

Nice NAS aircraft bolts holding it all together. I have a lucas switch with 3 keys for sale. It's almost new.

bwolfie said:

Nice NAS aircraft bolts holding it all together. I have a lucas switch with 3 keys for sale. It's almost new.

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Well spotted bwolfie I'm hoping to bolt this bike together with as much hardware from the consumables store as possible! Unfortunately, most bolts are always a dash length or two too short of too long.
Post me a pic of you switch if you could please, I might be interested, I only need on and off and for it to be as short as possible. How much do you want for it? Also don't forget I live in France so payment would have to be by pay pal or similar.

All the best

Webby

lucas-30552a-4101-ignition-lock-with-keys-t8600.html

I have been an aircraft Mechanic for 13+ years. Currently been laid off over a year. Started my own Welding business. I've been fixing boats, cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles nad whatever else comes along.

I too love using aircraft parts, I have amassed quite a collection. And if i DON'T HAVE IT i STILL HAVE FRIENDS.

bwolfie said:

http://www.accessnorton.com/lucas-30552a-4101-ignition-lock-with-keys-t8600.html

I have been an aircraft Mechanic for 13+ years. Currently been laid off over a year. Started my own Welding business. I've been fixing boats, cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles nad whatever else comes along.

I too love using aircraft parts, I have amassed quite a collection. And if i DON'T HAVE IT i STILL HAVE FRIENDS.

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Love this ...LOL .... I drug around a box of aviation hardware around for many years and tossed it a few years ago. Now that I am retired I cant just walk back into the shop and grab what ever I need. Its depressing, and have you tried to drill a bolt head to safety wire it? It was so easy with AN bolts from work, now I gotta pay or drill them myself. My safety wire pliers still have a special spot in the tool box but it seams they only come out of the drawer to be cleaned.

Did you work general aviation? I remember having to do Dope and Fabric repairs and timing a mag for my PE to get my A&P, meanwhile I was a test pilot in the Army and ran a helicopter maintenance platoon and had no use for those skills.

Back to present and reality , Nice build Webby

I spent 7 years working on Shorts sd3-30's and 3-60's. 1 year on 1900d's, 5 years at a Cessna Citation service center doing mods and avionics installs. The last 2 years of working was on millitary survalance projects with 3-60's and king air 350's. The last GA airplane I touched was in A&P school. My toolbox has been taking up one of my bike parking spots. I miss working on airplanes, but I really enjoy working for myself. I have to renew my IA next month, it might be the last time. The rules are changing.

I'm going to use a bunch of AN lines and fittings on my oil and fuel system. I machinde some -4 unions for my carbs, they worked out well, and free. When I was working on the shorts we parted a bunch out, and they let me take pretty much what I wanted, so I did. At cessna I always raided the red tag room, lots of goodies there, SS tubing, aluminum tubing plus switches and other odds and ends. I got a gallon of expired 9309 , that comes in handy. Now if I need something special I call up one of my friends.

bwolfie said:

I spent 7 years working on Shorts sd3-30's and 3-60's. 1 year on 1900d's, 5 years at a Cessna Citation service center doing mods and avionics installs. The last 2 years of working was on millitary survalance projects with 3-60's and king air 350's. The last GA airplane I touched was in A&P school. My toolbox has been taking up one of my bike parking spots. I miss working on airplanes, but I really enjoy working for myself. I have to renew my IA next month, it might be the last time. The rules are changing.

I'm going to use a bunch of AN lines and fittings on my oil and fuel system. I machinde some -4 unions for my carbs, they worked out well, and free. When I was working on the shorts we parted a bunch out, and they let me take pretty much what I wanted, so I did. At cessna I always raided the red tag room, lots of goodies there, SS tubing, aluminum tubing plus switches and other odds and ends. I got a gallon of expired 9309 , that comes in handy. Now if I need something special I call up one of my friends.

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I probably flew some of those King Air 350s, (C-12 R) 5 blade Hartzels and Raise back tail mods, 5 tube EFAS dual FMS? There weren't many of them, only like 24 or so. We took off at 14500 lbs and landed at 13500 max, not your normal Kingairs.... all of the R model C-12s have been converted to ISR and I still have have friends flying them in Iraq now.

Webby03 said:

It's held in place with an old O ring

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That "O" ring does not look very strong, on a bump, that big battery will go flying.

Don't mind me, I always try to overbuild :wink:

Jean