Walridge Belt drive kit

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The kit did not come with a LH guide plate.
Walridge catalogue photo:
Walridge Belt drive kit

I emailed Walridge about this.
The engine pulley came as it's shown in the picture above.

Although this from Walridge website:
"The guide plate on the front pulley goes to the outside."
- the part makes no sense then, because the threaded holes for a removal tool are drilled/tapped into the side opposite where the guide plate is fixed (the way the engine pulley looks in the picture above)
- and the centre bore is tapered to offer it on the shaft the way I have it:
Walridge Belt drive kit


(Thank you for the added advise on belt tension)
 
A few things...

-As you said, the bore taper on the pulley only goes 1 way...
-the guide plate is designed to be on the outside to retain the belt
-Your guide plate seems to be on the wrong side of the pulley as dictated by the taper
-Thank God for Dynodave and the forum members here who really try to help


And now the virtiolic part;

If a business finds it convenient enough to take your money over the phone, but it's not convenient to address real customer service issues over the phone, I'd say they don't deserve anyone's endorsement for that kind of policy. "Your parts are fucked up? Well, write me a letter and I'll read it next week, I'M BUSY". That's baloney.

When it's finally YOUR turn to get a defective part or some aftermarket kit without any instructions it will feel like shitty service to YOU.

Go to Oldbritts website... Look at all the tutorials Fred has produced to help people with their Nortons.

I've talked to Matt at CNW about his layshaft bearing when I rebuilt my gearbox....

Both of the above seem to really spend time helping customers understand what they sell them...

The last guy you want to buy something from is a guy who is too busy to deal with legitimate costumer service issues...
 
A few things...

-As you said, the bore taper on the pulley only goes 1 way...
-the guide plate is designed to be on the outside to retain the belt
-Your guide plate seems to be on the wrong side of the pulley as dictated by the taper
-Thank God for Dynodave and the forum members here who really try to help


And now the virtiolic part;

If a business finds it convenient enough to take your money over the phone, but it's not convenient to address real customer service issues over the phone, I'd say they don't deserve anyone's endorsement for that kind of policy. "Your parts are fucked up? Well, write me a letter and I'll read it next week, I'M BUSY". That's baloney.

When it's finally YOUR turn to get a defective part or some aftermarket kit without any instructions it will feel like shitty service to YOU.

Go to Oldbritts website... Look at all the tutorials Fred has produced to help people with their Nortons.

I've talked to Matt at CNW about his layshaft bearing when I rebuilt my gearbox....

Both of the above seem to really spend time helping customers understand what they sell them...

The last guy you want to buy something from is a guy who is too busy to deal with legitimate costumer service issues...
No Sir,
You just return it. He will give you your money back.
Don't drag your bitter pill down with the rest of us.
IMHO
 
Been dealing with Waldridges for close to 20 years with no problems. Met Mike at Barbers a few years back. Nice guy. You can't expect someone to drop everything he's doing just answer a question on the spot.
 
No Sir,
You just return it. He will give you your money back.
Don't drag your bitter pill down with the rest of us.
IMHO

What is with you? I laid out my argument clearly. You're characterizing me as "bitter" because of shitty service that caused me to change supplier, and now this guy has what seems like a defective part (or a proprietary part with no instructions to even know if it's defective, and you think it's somehow just one of those.... "So, just shut up and send it back" things??

Why are you defending walridge? is the guy your brother in law or something? or just a fellow canadian... ?

I think their service policy sucked, and I had an issue where I needed to talk to him after spending over 2000 dollars with them. "Write me a letter" just doesn't cut it...

..... people can say all they want, "I dealt with them for 20 years and had no problems", but if you did have a problem, you'ld better call DynoDave, or write a damn letter... Yeah, they were ok for me too until I had a problem with a part they sold me, and like I said, I spent a lot of money there, and got no service. You would think that when someone spends over $2000. with you, they've earned better costumer service than "write me a letter".
 
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oOnortonOo,

This thread is not going down that road. I understand your customer service ideals.
I've got a Jameson in the garage and I'm happy.
Walridge is great.
I just want to be a Norton hokie and get some info while I'm puttering. I like figuring shit out on this bike.

A few images to show what it looks like (I can disassemble on further advice and when I get a reply from Walridge):
Walridge Belt drive kit

Walridge Belt drive kit

Walridge Belt drive kit
 
No Sir,
You just return it. He will give you your money back.
Don't drag your bitter pill down with the rest of us.
IMHO
[/QUOTE]
What is with you? I laid out my argument clearly. You're characterizing me as "bitter" because of shitty service that caused me to change supplier

You return it. Mike will give you your money back. He would probably tell you to deal with someone else.
What is with you? I laid out my argument clearly. You're characterizing me as "bitter" because of shitty service that caused me to change supplier, and now this guy has what seems like a defective part (or a proprietary part with no instructions to even know if it's defective, and you think it's somehow just one of those.... "So, just shut up and send it back" things??

Why are you defending walridge? is the guy your brother in law or something? or just a fellow canadian... ?

I think their service policy sucked, and I had an issue where I needed to talk to him after spending over 2000 dollars with them. "Write me a letter" just doesn't cut it...

..... people can say all they want, "I dealt with them for 20 years and had no problems", but if you did have a problem, you'ld better call DynoDave, or write a damn letter... Yeah, they were ok for me too until I had a problem with a part they sold me, and like I said, I spent a lot of money there, and got no service. You would think that when someone spends over $2000. with you, they've earned better costumer service than "write me a letter".
Just return it.
It didn't work out for you.
boo hoo!
 
Hullsfire, My complaints about their customer service aside,... as you said the taper says the pulley goes one way, and the guide plate seems to say the pulley goes the other way... so there is a customer service issue to be addressed
 
I get it. No worries.
I'm sure the kit has an explanation. Either it's missing an outside guide plate or it's design and manufacturing with proper tension allow it to run true.

A previous reply I posted this from Walridge catalogue page:

"Walridge Motors is pleased to offer these excellent quality, economically priced kits. 10mm pitch polyurethane steel lined belts. - Steel front pulley – dished and lightened – much less likely to work loose on splines - Can be run at higher temperatures then rubber belts "

I take that to mean the belt is much less likely to work loose.
 
"Why are you defending walridge? is the guy your brother in law or something? "
If you are not happy with the service or the product, you will always get your money back.
I'm not Mike's brother or any relation to him. Nor do I pretend to be, anytime.
you are angry! I don't know why?
 
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-the guide plate is designed to be on the outside to retain the belt
There should be a guide plate on BOTH sides...... END of LINE>>>>
If it is not supplied than make one or have it made and then TELL EVERY ONE what was required to correct the problem
I have seen alton starter set ups eat unguided belts like candy, bad news

Both of the above seem to really spend time helping customers understand what they sell them...
They are sometimes primarily selling a filler for their own wallet.

The last guy you want to buy something from is a guy who is too busy to deal with legitimate costumer service issues...
Unfortunately in north america there are incredibly few norton knowledgeable service shops. America & Canada is VERY big. Distance matters (besides black lives).
This causes a self help culture as manditory. However the parts seller is hard pressed to teach every under educated idiot how to fix/rebuild their piece of norton junk on a buck two ninety five budget. Local clubs are very often the holders of the real helpers of the norton industry.
To me it almost seems the dealers $$$ don't even know what they are selling for which bike? TRI/BSA/NORT or model. I am often telling the norton folks to be sure to know MORE than the guy they are buying from to keep them in line and prevent you from getting screwed.

ALERT: learn before you spend NOT spend then ask "how did I do?"

I have spent money yeah with all the larger 3 well known guys Norvil/RGM/ANIL and many American and Canadians . probaly well over $30k in nickle dime parts I HAVE BEEN BURNED BY ALL 3 and still buy from them all, but not buying everything from each. AND I am NOT in the full time norton repair business. Barely even part time

Slowly loosing interest as my work is stolen, clutch rod seals by CNW and my starters by a Brit company WOSP Gear Reduction Starters.

Sorry starting to sound like BDM
 
However the parts seller is hard pressed to teach every under educated idiot how to fix/rebuild their piece of norton junk on a buck two ninety five budget.

that statement is priceless.
 
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My point was only that they have the time to sell you shit over the phone and take your money over the phone because it's efficient, but the customer service method for a paying customer was "write me a letter, and I'll read it next week sometime"... That 2 way street should be a little more equal...

And Dave, Nobody expects a parts guy to teach them how to rebuild their machine. Just answer a question from a paying customer when there seems to be a problem with a part.

Hullsfire, seems to have a legitimate issue to resolve from what I've read so far. He came here and asked for some help because of the weak customer service policy at walridge... It was something I had experienced, so it was relevant and I mentioned it.

However the parts seller is hard pressed to teach every under educated idiot how to fix/rebuild their piece of norton junk on a buck two ninety five budget.

that statement is priceless.

STRAWMAN,... Nobody was asking walridge to teach anyone anything... not in my situation, and it seems not in hullsfire's either. So dance around like you made some "priceless" winning statement, when in fact you are just avoiding arguing the comment I made that his customer service sucks...

***********************************************************************************************************************************

Hullsfire, I am interested in how this resolves. If the part is defective or missing some parts or just lacking a simple set of instructions telling you to leave out certain stock parts out of the reassembly. The pulley guide comment and taper don't jive... I'd like to know why. Thanks, sorry for hijacking your thread.
 
I've had very good experiences dealing with Walridge.
They bring parts over by the shipping container load and pass the shipping savings on to the customer. Sometimes you have to wait a bit, but if not in a hurry the savings are substantial.
I've only had one real issue with parts quality, that was on some rubber gaiters that disintegrated after about 18 months.
I've had similar problems with rubber items from other suppliers as well and did not expect or ask for warranty on these gaiters after 18 months.
I did ask Mike if he had a source for better gaiters and said I didn't mind paying extra for better quality.
He said he had some that he felt were of better quality, and " Would you mind if I send them out free of charge?"
Not many suppliers will volunteer free replacement on non warrantied items, especially when the customer has stated he is ready to pay.
Good outfit!

Glen
 
I was only looking for some insight in case I was missing something. I obviously was, which dynodave corrected, with regards to the dimensions.
I'll see what shakes out with the belt guide.
Walridge is top drawer. As I wrote earlier - COVID has tested many businesses.
 
Walridge is checking with the manufacturer about a LH guide plate.
Mr. Partridge replied that he has sold more than two dozen going back 1 1/2 years.

"The guide plate question has been asked before. It doesn't seem to need one according to the designer and I am not aware of any problems with this.
I will forward your email to the manufacturers and let you know what they say."

I will wait to see what the response is.

dynodave - I fully understand where you're coming from. What would be your garage mechanics fabricating solution. The first thing that came to my mind was an electrical octagon box cover plate. Lol?
Walridge Belt drive kit
 
How many thousands has Norvil and RGM sold and they still use guide plates?
May require a visit to a machine shop.
precision hole in the center to fit crank.
notch for the alternator key clearance.
nice and smooth radiused edge going away from belt.

Note in general:
These belt drives are somewhat of a mis use of belts.
The engine shaft is much more able to resist deflection and is a better source for "tracking restriction and retention"
The clutch drum can deflect under load (throttle) on the carrier bearing and steer the belt to the left by pulling the drum forward.
General sloppiness of the to bolt in the 1/64 ovesize transmission casting aids in shaft misalignment, again prevents perfect belt tracking by nonparallel shafts.
Light aluminum drum grow with heat and must be run loose or they self destruct the belt because they do NOT GROW with heat.
Yes steel is better resistance to grow with heat. With obvious down side of severe mass on end of tranny shaft.
The service factor for "piston/pulsed" power IIRC is 2.5. We are obviously not going to run 6" wide belts for 50+ hp norton twin.
Are you going to remove the tin/felt oil seal on the back of the primary for discreet cooling?
I have run it open for initial testing-the belt should not catch you pants as the top belt run is "opening" i.e. the belt is moving away from the drum not like the bottom run which is dangerous and would "grab"- If in doubt-don't
 
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