Walridge Belt drive kit

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Hullsfire

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Hello all,

Has anyone installed a Walridge Motors Belt Drive kit? The engine sprocket is wider (and the original sprocket is concave facing outward), and even with the very narrow shims removed, there does not seem enough room to fit the rotor key with the recessed spacer.
Thought I would post in hopes of some insight while fiddling before emailing Walridge. Walridge website info states it's a direct replacement. I can't see it that way.

Thank you
John
 
Will do (pictures)
It did not come with instructions. Just that it was a direct replacement kit.
 
"It did not come with instructions. "
Well it should have. I'm not sure what Mike Partridge sold you. Most Likely a Norvil Kit?
I have an RGM Motors Instruction pages to set up a Belt drive. Not sure if its the same kit.
But it is important that you don't over tighten the running belt tension. I would contact Mike via email and have him send you those instructions.
 
Thank you for the reply. Sorry guys, I'm trying to insert some images I took.

It is not the Norvil kit. However it is an AT10 belt.
From Walridge catalogue:

"Walridge Motors is pleased to offer these excellent quality, economically priced kits. 10mm pitch polyurethane steel lined belts. - Steel front pulley – dished and lightened – much less likely to work loose on splines - Can be run at higher temperatures then rubber belts "
(economically means I still paid a few hundred $)

From Walridge Help and Advice page:

Norton and Triumph Fitting Belt Drive Kits
"Installing a primary belt drive kit is simply a matter of replacing the front sprocket and rear clutch chainwheel with the pulleys supplied."
 
Mike is usually thorough , wonder if instructions were mislaid when kit was packaged for shipping , I would just call him first and see what’s up , sure he would answer any questions you have on fitting a kit he sold you ....good luck !
 
Good luck getting that guy on the phone, I had an issue with a part they supplied to me back in the 90's and I was told that I needed to submit my issue in writing, and that Mike addresses those questions once a week because he is much too busy to answer customer's questions on the phone. At the point were I had a problem, I had already spent thousands of dollars with them. It wasn't like I was a potential customer who wanted to talk to the boss to ask if the horn went "beep beep" or "honk honk". I stopped buying from them because of their shitty customer service.

Here's a similar thread from 2015 on another site that got no responses..

www.triumphrat.net

Belt drive from Walridge motors

www.triumphrat.net www.triumphrat.net
 
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The kit pulley is not concave:

Walridge Belt drive kit


Here the difference:
Walridge Belt drive kit


The engine sprocket not fully seated so not having to drive it on showing clearance of rotor keyway:

Walridge Belt drive kit


New pulley:
Walridge Belt drive kit


New pulley with spacer:
Walridge Belt drive kit


The spacer and shims with the original sprocket allows easy access for rotor key fitment.
I will email Walridge. I know he answers, but it takes 3-4 days.
 
I was going to say Tony Hayward as the manufacture until I saw the pics, don’t know now. How wide is that pulley, looks like a 40mm race setup? My Hayward is a 30mm belt and the pulley is just slightly wider than that.
 
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With a belt drive the rotor spacer is not used. just use the LH plate and clean up alt key notch on alt plate if necessary.
Put on alt rotor put nut/washer and tighten after belt is on
Pulley is 32mm wide belt is 30.
Done
 
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Well all I can say is my experience has been all good from Mike the owner of Walridge Motors , guess we all have bad days , my experience goes back more than 20 years always fast , friendly & knowledgeable service .....
 
Well now, that makes incredible sense. Thank you!
Old sprocket and spacer width = 35mm

New Pulley width with back plate = 35mm

dynodave - There is no LH plate. Are you referring to a plate to stop lateral belt play?

Spoke with Mike a couple weeks ago; he is swamped more than ever because all of us working on our machines during work stoppages due to COVID. He is behind in able to reply.
72, and working like a machine himself!
 
I have several AT10 systems (and a few HTD) and they all use a RH and a LH plate on the drive, none on the clutch drum. I'd be shocked that your sysem would be without the two side plates.
 
The clutch drum has a raised lip to prevent outward lateral play.
The engine pulley - negative.
dynodave - should I use one or more of the very thin spacers between the new pulley and rotor? Or rotor directly pushed up against pulley is fine?
 
All my RGM AT10 systems have 2 guide plates on the drive and the funky buldge on the clutch drum. If the belt hits the raised ring it will alarm you from the violent belt jumping it causes. I believe it happened on one of my belt drives from a super cheap/crappy (brand new) drum center bearing.
No shims really needed for the alternator. The magnetic fields find the stator pretty good and are not as fussy as some people claim. But no harm either to put them .
 
I appreciate all the replies. I have it looking good. Discarding the spacers was the treat. Tomorrow will be belt tension. I've read some good threads on that containing learned knowledge from Access members.

Thanks again all.
 
DID you find the LH guide plate? I would NOT run with out it. What is your ratio?
Tension?..... grip the belt and pull up firmly and you should just barely be able to touch the top of the primary. Tight is a belt killer. My loose belt is still from 1988...albeit a norvil HTD
 
dynodave said:
DID you find the LH guide plate? I would NOT run with out it. What is your ratio?
Tension?..... grip the belt and pull up firmly and you should just barely be able to touch the top of the primary. Tight is a belt killer. My loose belt is still from 1988...albeit a norvil HTD
Click to expand...
. grip the belt and pull up firmly and you should just barely be able to touch the top of the primary. Tight is a belt killer.
Aye.
No arguments there.
 
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