Walridge Belt drive kit
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jbruney
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I'm surprised that none of the enterprising belt drive fellows has to yet attack the primary cover with an endmill to make custom cooling grills. I've seen the plugs & cases replaced with screens, but no one going for customizing the factory outer. Just curious.
maylar
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The inner chain case on the cNw e-start belt drive has cooling slots inconspicuously milled into it. I've seen some pretty fugly outer cover treatments.
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1. The removal of the felt seal holder gives primary breathing yet is inside and shielded from rain and rocks.
2. It is reversible with available factory parts if desired. 2 ea 06.0769 @ 1.65 £ and a seal 01.2443 @ 0.49 £
New primary cover 06.2585 @ 140.00 £
3. How much better cooling is carving up a good primary cover, for how much cooling? but yes..... essential for "bragging rights"!
The only one who needs to know I have a belt drive on/in my bike is the driver (ME)
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You are far more economical with your words than BDM, at least so far.
Installing the clutch stack in the new hub was nearly a drive fit. Well it was. I had to tap them home. I think all of them.
The spring also, to get clearance for the circlip. That one quite forcefully. Using a wooden block where I could around the spring removal tool.
I started the bike with primary cover off to see what action the belt would have. Tensions were good. Belt, rear chain. Done with all good information on proper belt tension adhered to. Belt ran true.
(Not that I won't fabricate a LH guide. I understand the value/importance for that.)
I don't think pulling the clutch lever disengages the clutch now. Clutch operating lever in correct position. Push rod adjuster screw and lock nut positioned nicely. Everything too tight? Some diaphragm movement.
Bike was idling, and I pulled lever, shifting to first. Bike stalls. With the lever still pulled. Every time.
With the bike not running, I can manually move the shifter up to first. Back to neutral. Down to second. Down to third. And back again. All without the lever pulled.
Bike running, unfamiliar knocking from gearbox/clutch hub. I think. Tomorrow I will put my stethoscope to the different cases to pinpoint.
Clutch assembly was all done as previous with all original parts.
Fresh gearbox EP 90. No issues with gearbox previously.
My dreams of eliminating dastardly primary oil leak have taken a hit. Thoughts of returning to all original parts with triplex chain.
Disassembly to determine causes could be a nightmare. Removing the clutch plates from their tight fit inside the hub.
The spring also, to get clearance for the circlip. That one quite forcefully. Using a wooden block where I could around the spring removal tool.
I started the bike with primary cover off to see what action the belt would have. Tensions were good. Belt, rear chain. Done with all good information on proper belt tension adhered to. Belt ran true.
(Not that I won't fabricate a LH guide. I understand the value/importance for that.)
I don't think pulling the clutch lever disengages the clutch now. Clutch operating lever in correct position. Push rod adjuster screw and lock nut positioned nicely. Everything too tight? Some diaphragm movement.
Bike was idling, and I pulled lever, shifting to first. Bike stalls. With the lever still pulled. Every time.
With the bike not running, I can manually move the shifter up to first. Back to neutral. Down to second. Down to third. And back again. All without the lever pulled.
Bike running, unfamiliar knocking from gearbox/clutch hub. I think. Tomorrow I will put my stethoscope to the different cases to pinpoint.
Clutch assembly was all done as previous with all original parts.
Fresh gearbox EP 90. No issues with gearbox previously.
My dreams of eliminating dastardly primary oil leak have taken a hit. Thoughts of returning to all original parts with triplex chain.
Disassembly to determine causes could be a nightmare. Removing the clutch plates from their tight fit inside the hub.
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o0norton0o
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the clutch plates need to slide right into the basket. If you had to "tap them in" the basket or the plates are out of spec, because they need to have play between the basket splines or the hub splines and their corresponding stack splines or they will stick in place in the basket and wont unload pressure anyway when you pull the clutch lever.... hopefully that's clear.
So I assume that you were told the front pulley is supposed to have the guide plate on the inside of the pulley, even thought the website says that guide plate goes on the the outside of the pulley. As we both noted previously, the pulley and crankshaft have a matching taper so the pulley can only go on one way, so either the website information is wrong or the pulley had the plate mounted on the wrong side....
If the clutch plates don't drop right into the basket.... something is seriously wrong...
So I assume that you were told the front pulley is supposed to have the guide plate on the inside of the pulley, even thought the website says that guide plate goes on the the outside of the pulley. As we both noted previously, the pulley and crankshaft have a matching taper so the pulley can only go on one way, so either the website information is wrong or the pulley had the plate mounted on the wrong side....
If the clutch plates don't drop right into the basket.... something is seriously wrong...
Yes, I think it is going to be difficult to remove them. The original basket, if the plates aren't guided in perfectly true, there is a bit of finger tapping to get them to square up and slide home. Yet they did slide home and function as you describe. This time, I thought that was the case too, just requiring a little more effort. Well, could be a lesson learned, and to my disappointment. I'll take it apart tomorrow night to find out.
Walridge - "The guide plate question has been asked before. It doesn't seem to need one according to the designer and I am not aware of any problems with this. I will forward your email to the manufacturers and let you know what they say."
"I think when you start the bike up you will see that the belt doesn't ride out on the front pulley so a guide plate is not needed."
This seemed to be the case. Belt tracked nicely. I'm going to ask a coworker who might be able to fab something up for me.
Thanks
Walridge - "The guide plate question has been asked before. It doesn't seem to need one according to the designer and I am not aware of any problems with this. I will forward your email to the manufacturers and let you know what they say."
"I think when you start the bike up you will see that the belt doesn't ride out on the front pulley so a guide plate is not needed."
This seemed to be the case. Belt tracked nicely. I'm going to ask a coworker who might be able to fab something up for me.
Thanks
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The diameter of the pulley should be checked as different tooth count affects the size of the guide plate.
Even the RGM pulley has the extractor threads at the bottom of the bore (engine end) and the guide plate is always screwed on, as it is otherwise unsupported with nothing to "sandwich" with like the alternator end.
New friction/clutch plates? or veterans? Any plate insertion drag/friction is cause for FULL STOP of this installation.
WIth the plates installed you should be able to easily turn the clutch center with your fingers.
(gearbox in neutral) Press the stack with your fingers and it will act like a brake, let go and it should resume virtually effortless hand rotation.
From experience, tracking of the belt just sitting reving the engine can be VERY different from a loaded belt i.e. pulling the bike.
Roger that.
"WIth the plates installed you should be able to easily turn the clutch center with your fingers.
(gearbox in neutral) Press the stack with your fingers and it will act like a brake, let go and it should resume virtually effortless hand rotation."
This is not the case. This is the first steel plate that gets offered into the hub. From this position onward, it is basically a drive fit:
Not cool. I know. The second steel plate, pretty mutch the same, but a little less effort. It was not fun getting these #*&%$# out.
I'm not a rube; I'm not a fabricating mechanic either. I cut my teeth on a 1986 Toyota pick-up engine.
I was thinking once seated, the stack will work as needed. As in, the mechanics of the clutch exerts enough pressure to do what needs to be done inside. I understand it now.
Well, the original front pulley spacing/guide plate issue seems resolved. This is where I'm at.
Thanks for replies.
o0norton0o
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yeah, the plates have to move in and out freely. The basket is out of spec, and it's not fixable. Even in a good clutch basket, if the plates wear grooves in the basket splines that will cause problems with the plates not releasing with the clutch engagement, so the basket/plate fit is critically important. As Dave and Bill have said... that kit has a defect that can't be fixed. No use wasting any more of your valuable time...
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Yes. That does not look right. I would send it back. Send that picture to Mike Partridge. It shouldn't hang up like that.
Just to be sure. All your clutch components fit up well to your old chain drive basket with no issues? That is something need tell him.
Just to be sure. All your clutch components fit up well to your old chain drive basket with no issues? That is something need tell him.
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