TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.

gortnipper said:
You should rent this for whatever part you need at.the moment whenever someone on the forum asks how ro remove those hammer drive rivets.
Click to expand...

The granite table Muppet said I was sad making the gizmo but it is very Zen like using it.
I got a good laugh from that.

Lets go.

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TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.
 
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Whoops, into the half done scrap bin it goes, note to self, fit the centre/center stand spring first.

TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.
 
Its all good, I whipped up another quick smart using carbide then managed to 'screw the M20 thread up.
It keeps you honest. (I could probably use the first one on the Triumph TR5T)
Even when I was a foreman and folk would say they had made a mistake I would simply say, the part is right, just not for this job.

Its a sunny day tomorrow so will get more material even though I had got extra, the bigger square block is a head steady so will make a drawing to follow, not adlib.
 
Next is the Hydrolastic head steady.
The oil filter is a smaller version form my service parts (Africa Twin) The stock herringbone oil hoses now clear the spilt clamps on the cradle tube being moved forward.
The fittings were machined from SS with a M12-1.5 mm threads, 2 mm thick brass rings now sit under them.

I managed to not ruin this one.
76 mm x 76 mm 6061 Aluminium bar @ $13 (US$10 - UK£7)
16 mm 316 SS bar for two fittings @ $1 (US77 cents/ UK54 p.

$14.

ssf - Copy.jpg
 
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Time Warp said:
Next is the Hydrolastic head steady.
The oil filter is a smaller version form my service parts (Africa Twin) The stock herringbone oil hoses now clear the spilt clamps on the cradle tube being moved forward.
The fittings were machined from SS with a M12-1.5 mm threads, 2 mm thick brass rings now sit under them.

I managed to not ruin this one.
76 mm x 76 mm 6061 Aluminium bar @ $13 (US$10 - UK£7)
16 mm 316 SS bar for two fittings @ $1 (US77 cents/ UK54 p.

$14.

View attachment 80071
Click to expand...
Make me one, please. Very, very nice!
 
$14 + $700 free labour that is. :)

I made a start on a head steady.
Logic suggests the easiest option would be a late OEM box unit with a single machined mount that uses the four stock holes with a single Teflon slider to replace the rubber isolator..

I will use this 65 mm square 6061 bar instead.

TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.
 
The thought occurred to me buying a DT head steady might be more sensible and guaranteed to work.

TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.
 
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I continue to be impressed with your ability to make complex parts with basic machine tools. I find that anything I make using a rotary table requires way more setup time than machining time, and I usually end up making most parts at least twice to get one good one. :(

Ken
 
Thanks for the reply Ken and appreciate it coming from you.

Common sense said just machine a small steel hanger bracket and weld it to the tube top and bottom inline with the 25 mm tube but started on a piece of 30 mm 6061.
I need to step on it before your push rods arrive.

TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.


TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.
 
In the days before a DRO (which was nearly forever) I used to use ground injector pins to locate parts so more complex shapes could be machined/rotated to the next repeat step.

This was a RGV 250 wheel to right hand drive for a Ducati back in the 1990's.

TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.


TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.


Inside out cush drive.

TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.


TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.


Madness really but if you can't buy it..............
 

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