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The story of skilled labour.
TW wrecks a perfectly good Commando etc.
- Thread starter Time Warp
- Start date
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- Dec 3, 2012
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After reading a thread in the main forum that mentioned crank shaft mounted ignition units (for better or worse) I found this (after contacting Andy asking if the Smart-Fire I had could be used at that location as is( More out of curiosity than anything) afterward.
Having moved both the stator and rotor inboard (Page 4 and over a year ago) due to removing the outer teeth of the front drive sprocket ( also the clutch drum) I could probably adapt the unit I have using a pick up from that kit and a 'spider mounted off the stator mounts.
Perhaps a project for the future to replace what is not broken and unused at this point.
Smart-Fire Crank Trig. Twin 4 Stroke :: Smart-Fire Ignitions :: Products :: Pazon Ignitions Limited
Smart-Fire Crank Trig. Twin 4 Stroke. Crankshaft triggered competition ignition system.Adaptable to many 4 stroke twin cylinder engines.Engineering facilities required to install. Overview of Digital & Analogue Ignition Systems. Classic bike & car electronic ignitions for road & racing.
www.pazon.com
Having moved both the stator and rotor inboard (Page 4 and over a year ago) due to removing the outer teeth of the front drive sprocket ( also the clutch drum) I could probably adapt the unit I have using a pick up from that kit and a 'spider mounted off the stator mounts.
Perhaps a project for the future to replace what is not broken and unused at this point.
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It looks good for its age but not good enough when a new ignition is being installed.
What I will do is service that quality Lucas switch but use its power feed to activate a relay so the Smart-Fire ignition is powered directly from the battery.
The original kill switch will be retained to control the feed at the relay 85/86 terminals.
It should work.
What I will do is service that quality Lucas switch but use its power feed to activate a relay so the Smart-Fire ignition is powered directly from the battery.
The original kill switch will be retained to control the feed at the relay 85/86 terminals.
It should work.
Last edited:
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The rotor thread reminded me once again how life would be harder without machine tools.
Back in 2017 I bought a new (Fisher and Paykel of course) fridge, washing machine and dryer.
Due to the wall stud and nog locations I needed to use a hardwood backer held with large screw bolts.
The lower legs were then to short by the wood thickness.
Pack them with the same wood or to the garage and machine some Acetyl bar stock to make extenders.
Almost like bought ones and probably 10 minutes or less.
It is probably due to have any internal lint removed, add it to the list.
Back in 2017 I bought a new (Fisher and Paykel of course) fridge, washing machine and dryer.
Due to the wall stud and nog locations I needed to use a hardwood backer held with large screw bolts.
The lower legs were then to short by the wood thickness.
Pack them with the same wood or to the garage and machine some Acetyl bar stock to make extenders.
Almost like bought ones and probably 10 minutes or less.
It is probably due to have any internal lint removed, add it to the list.
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- Dec 3, 2012
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That is quite normal in the southern hemisphere.
They come with a wall mount kit and two fascia plates for either way up for wall hung or on the floor, the front loader washer is underneath on the floor and that is a 3 m x 1.5 m laundry room.
The tub and 30 litre ultrasonic cleaner is on the bench end of that wall.
Fast Eddie
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I would never in my wildest dreams consider a tumble dryer in the garage !!!
Thin end of the wedge to the motorcycle sanctuary becoming a domestic utility room
There are lines that are not to be crossed…
My Norton lives in the conservatory, the Greeves Silverstone and the Oulton live in the study, four in the garage and one in the workshop, and as a widowed pensioner no lines are crossedI would never in my wildest dreams consider a tumble dryer in the garage !!!
Thin end of the wedge to the motorcycle sanctuary becoming a domestic utility room
There are lines that are not to be crossed…
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First job today is get the inlet manifolds so the carburetors are at the same height and level at the tops.
The manifolds as stock have the holes and studs skewed to each other which is not a problem with twin throttle cables but can present a problem (unless ignored) with a top gantry plate.
Seemed like a good idea at the time.
Test piece insert @ 11 / 10 OD / 8 ID
The real ones will be Loctited in place and the surface re fly cut lightly.
Interference fits on both OD's so drawn in + Loctite 680.
The manifolds as stock have the holes and studs skewed to each other which is not a problem with twin throttle cables but can present a problem (unless ignored) with a top gantry plate.
Seemed like a good idea at the time.
Test piece insert @ 11 / 10 OD / 8 ID
The real ones will be Loctited in place and the surface re fly cut lightly.
Interference fits on both OD's so drawn in + Loctite 680.
Last edited:
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- Dec 3, 2012
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Time to make more swarf.
It would have been from a 100 x 50 bar but the road out was closed due to flooding.
What I would have liked, maybe next time.
The top plate (black with one linear bearing) sandwiches to the lower (red with one linear bearing ) unit and fixes at the four 2BA screw locations at the top of the Amal's
The red unit sits in between the two carburetors.
A throttle cable drum with Crotch crank raises and lowers the ground rod doing the same for the top yoke which does the same for the slides.
There would be basically no 'junk on top of the carburetors, just the yolk and its pull rods.
It would have been from a 100 x 50 bar but the road out was closed due to flooding.
What I would have liked, maybe next time.
The top plate (black with one linear bearing) sandwiches to the lower (red with one linear bearing ) unit and fixes at the four 2BA screw locations at the top of the Amal's
The red unit sits in between the two carburetors.
A throttle cable drum with Crotch crank raises and lowers the ground rod doing the same for the top yoke which does the same for the slides.
There would be basically no 'junk on top of the carburetors, just the yolk and its pull rods.
Last edited:
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I rang Pazon and a crank mounted ignition would not be worth the effort on a road bike and the rotors magnetism could be a problem in itself with the sensor close by.
baz
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I used to have a T500 Suzuki with a Boyer ignition on the crank right next to the permanent magnet type alternator it ran fine
I always wondered about it's close proximity to the magnet but it was never an issue
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I'm not sure a Boyer sensor plate would like to be immersed in oil. (Dry area on a two stroke)
#
It would be a very easy modification to do. ( A machined spider for the pick up/sensor with inner vernier adjustment plate and a trigger rotor)
I have to admit my enthusiasm was soon lowered and thought the vender might have been somewhat interested but it was not to be. (It was more like a 'I rang to say the cat died phone call ) = lol
I will look at buying a sensor anyway if I can and do the mod later on.
I had converted my 1973 Moto Guzzi to a Hall Effect distributor.
Machine the distributor body ID.
Machined a sensor carrier and trigger.
Machine the shaft and shim the end float.
New Bosch TCI coil and VW ignition module.
To easy and another enjoyable project.
Stay hungry or become old very quickly.
There does not always have to be a reason to do things.
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Not sure how 14 mm centres/centers became 8 mm centres.
Out with the old and in with the new.
A late night fix, on with the Bose NC headphones (Thanks Qantas for two sets) up goes the 'Slade and knock another one out in record time.
That will learn me.
One for the Commando, one in the scrap bin for another day.
I ordered some Titanium bar for the shafts, one for the pivot, one for the pull rods.
Out with the old and in with the new.
A late night fix, on with the Bose NC headphones (Thanks Qantas for two sets) up goes the 'Slade and knock another one out in record time.
That will learn me.
One for the Commando, one in the scrap bin for another day.
I ordered some Titanium bar for the shafts, one for the pivot, one for the pull rods.
baz
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A mate of mine bought a fuel injected guzzi from a scrap yard
It had complete electronic breakdown
He removed the injectors and fitted 40mm mikunis
And the ignition was from a BMW boxer
He bolted the complete bean can on the front of the motor with the internals modified for the guzzi firing order
