Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

Made this out of aluminum bar stock for primary drive inspection caps …
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

And not for maintenance really but useful … fixture for hemispheric facing ( doming ) bolt heads , etc .
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

Great for removing the “ made of the cheapest material for
Walmart “ stamp on safety critical fasteners …
 
I wish I had a small lathe for doming/reproducing fixing bolts. A file and emery paper takes time. Yours look like they come out nice.
 
Made this out of aluminum bar stock for primary drive inspection caps …
View attachment 83772
And not for maintenance really but useful … fixture for hemispheric facing ( doming ) bolt heads , etc .
View attachment 83773
View attachment 83774
Great for removing the “ made of the cheapest material for
Walmart “ stamp on safety critical fasteners …
I hope your aluminum creation works better than my steel A.N. one . Just received it in my latest order and the edges were cut so sharp that it ate into the plug slots. Had to bastard file the edges to go in nicely.
 
I hope your aluminum creation works better than my steel A.N. one . Just received it in my latest order and the edges were cut so sharp that it ate into the plug slots. Had to bastard file the edges to go in nicely.
Yes - that is why I used aluminum.
 
A quick little after lunch project in the form of a splitter for the overhead fuel tank.
The spigots are threaded on the ends so shouldn't leak with Loctite.
Cost, maybe $1 in material.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
I wish I had a small lathe for doming/reproducing fixing bolts. A file and emery paper takes time. Yours look like they come out nice.
Try putting your bolt in a pistol drill ,clamp the drill in a vice or similar
Run it at high speed then linnish them to shape with a mini grinder fitted with a flap wheel
It takes seconds to do
 
Try putting your bolt in a pistol drill ,clamp the drill in a vice or similar
Run it at high speed then linnish them to shape with a mini grinder fitted with a flap wheel
It takes seconds to do
Good trick, that’s what I do now. I use the file to take the lettering off the head and shape the dome initially then finish with emery paper in the poor man’s lathe. I guess I take longer for the sake of symmetry, removing all file marks, and finally sanding swirls with a light polish.
 
Try putting your bolt in a pistol drill ,clamp the drill in a vice or similar
Run it at high speed then linnish them to shape with a mini grinder fitted with a flap wheel
It takes seconds to do
What do you do afterwards to keep them from rusting?
 
If you have a bench grinder it should be relatively easy to make up a fixture to swing the bolthead in an arc against the wheel . Plywood & V-blocks of wood . A step further would be blocks holding an electric drill with the bolt chucked in the drill with the whole assembly swinging in an arc against the wheel while the drill spins the bolt . Be sure to make the arc radius adjustable as you need to change that for different size bolt heads.
 
What do you do afterwards to keep them from rusting?
I only do this on stainless fasteners
I should have added I finish off with a scotchbrite on a velcro backing pad for a satin finish
Take the bolt to my polishing wheel for a mirror finish
 
Haven’t had a problem with rust, but I do use some stainless depending on what’s on hand. Perhaps the final polish applied adds some protection, my bikes are packed in an auto moisture protective bag with desiccant over the winter months until the Spring thaw.
 
Richard, that's an interesting idea. Do you have first hand experience in doing this?
Yes - while it has been several years since I have used it , I did all of the smaller fasteners and fittings on my ES2 in bright nickel with copper base . The plating itself is very simple . Just like painting all the work is in the prep and the lion’s share of that is stripping old plating. I chose nickel as chrome plating produces some pretty
unhealthy stuff. Caswell provide an excellent manual and have a help line as well. If you get involved with it I recommend you buy a variable power supply. The manual shows how to do it with lamps to regulate current but it seems laborious and iffy .
 
A quick little after lunch project in the form of a splitter for the overhead fuel tank.
The spigots are threaded on the ends so shouldn't leak with Loctite.
Cost, maybe $1 in material.

View attachment 83779
TW,
Could you share a picture of your rotor holder tool that I saw mentioned in an older thread?
 
TW,
Could you share a picture of your rotor holder tool that I saw mentioned in an older thread?

It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

3.jpg 2.jpg 1.jpg

tty.jpg


The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

z3.jpg spr3.jpg z1.jpg tt.jpg

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

grd.jpg IWIS.jpg

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
 
It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

View attachment 83790 View attachment 83792 View attachment 83791

View attachment 83793

The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

View attachment 83794 View attachment 83795 View attachment 83797 View attachment 83796

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

View attachment 83798 View attachment 83799

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
Beautiful work - nice to see and read talent . Thanks for sharing.
 
It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

View attachment 83790 View attachment 83792 View attachment 83791

View attachment 83793

The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

View attachment 83794 View attachment 83795 View attachment 83797 View attachment 83796

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

View attachment 83798 View attachment 83799

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
Are you considering mass production... Then please put me down at the top of the list for one :p
 
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