Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton

A quick little after lunch project in the form of a splitter for the overhead fuel tank.
The spigots are threaded on the ends so shouldn't leak with Loctite.
Cost, maybe $1 in material.

Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
kernel65 said:
I wish I had a small lathe for doming/reproducing fixing bolts. A file and emery paper takes time. Yours look like they come out nice.
Click to expand...
Try putting your bolt in a pistol drill ,clamp the drill in a vice or similar
Run it at high speed then linnish them to shape with a mini grinder fitted with a flap wheel
It takes seconds to do
 
baz said:
Try putting your bolt in a pistol drill ,clamp the drill in a vice or similar
Run it at high speed then linnish them to shape with a mini grinder fitted with a flap wheel
It takes seconds to do
Click to expand...
Good trick, that’s what I do now. I use the file to take the lettering off the head and shape the dome initially then finish with emery paper in the poor man’s lathe. I guess I take longer for the sake of symmetry, removing all file marks, and finally sanding swirls with a light polish.
 
baz said:
Try putting your bolt in a pistol drill ,clamp the drill in a vice or similar
Run it at high speed then linnish them to shape with a mini grinder fitted with a flap wheel
It takes seconds to do
Click to expand...
What do you do afterwards to keep them from rusting?
 
If you have a bench grinder it should be relatively easy to make up a fixture to swing the bolthead in an arc against the wheel . Plywood & V-blocks of wood . A step further would be blocks holding an electric drill with the bolt chucked in the drill with the whole assembly swinging in an arc against the wheel while the drill spins the bolt . Be sure to make the arc radius adjustable as you need to change that for different size bolt heads.
 
marshg246 said:
What do you do afterwards to keep them from rusting?
Click to expand...
I only do this on stainless fasteners
I should have added I finish off with a scotchbrite on a velcro backing pad for a satin finish
Take the bolt to my polishing wheel for a mirror finish
 
Haven’t had a problem with rust, but I do use some stainless depending on what’s on hand. Perhaps the final polish applied adds some protection, my bikes are packed in an auto moisture protective bag with desiccant over the winter months until the Spring thaw.
 
chaztuna said:
Richard, that's an interesting idea. Do you have first hand experience in doing this?
Click to expand...
Yes - while it has been several years since I have used it , I did all of the smaller fasteners and fittings on my ES2 in bright nickel with copper base . The plating itself is very simple . Just like painting all the work is in the prep and the lion’s share of that is stripping old plating. I chose nickel as chrome plating produces some pretty
unhealthy stuff. Caswell provide an excellent manual and have a help line as well. If you get involved with it I recommend you buy a variable power supply. The manual shows how to do it with lamps to regulate current but it seems laborious and iffy .
 
Time Warp said:
A quick little after lunch project in the form of a splitter for the overhead fuel tank.
The spigots are threaded on the ends so shouldn't leak with Loctite.
Cost, maybe $1 in material.

View attachment 83779
Click to expand...
TW,
Could you share a picture of your rotor holder tool that I saw mentioned in an older thread?
 
NickZ said:
TW,
Could you share a picture of your rotor holder tool that I saw mentioned in an older thread?
Click to expand...

It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

3.jpg 2.jpg 1.jpg

tty.jpg


The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

z3.jpg spr3.jpg z1.jpg tt.jpg

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

grd.jpg IWIS.jpg

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
 
Time Warp said:
It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

View attachment 83790 View attachment 83792 View attachment 83791

View attachment 83793

The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

View attachment 83794 View attachment 83795 View attachment 83797 View attachment 83796

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

View attachment 83798 View attachment 83799

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
Click to expand...
Beautiful work - nice to see and read talent . Thanks for sharing.
 
Time Warp said:
It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

View attachment 83790 View attachment 83792 View attachment 83791

View attachment 83793

The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

View attachment 83794 View attachment 83795 View attachment 83797 View attachment 83796

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

View attachment 83798 View attachment 83799

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
Click to expand...
Are you considering mass production... Then please put me down at the top of the list for one :p
 
I can't see any mass production being done on manual machines.

Not maintenance but a favourite, it takes a little setting up but allows a new D/S camshaft bush to be reamed then with the upper top replaced with another bolt on mandrel guide that passes though the then reamed to size bush, the T/S bush can be done with the cases together.

CamBushReamer..jpg
Tools You Have Made to Maintain your Norton
 
Time Warp said:
It is just a single split ring Nick.

The ring is bored for a almost size for size fit on the rotor, drilled and tapped M6-1 then drilled 6mm to the projected slit line then was sliced with a 1/32" thick slitting blade in the mill.

There is a 4mm grub screw in the counterbore which becomes a jacking screw when the M6 cap screw is wound out and contacts it to open the ring a little.
It then slides onto the rotor easily, the cap screw is nipped up and it is fixed. (That can be done with the handle in place and nuts on the three M8 grub screws in place)

View attachment 83790 View attachment 83792 View attachment 83791

View attachment 83793

The handle is the sprocket holder with three holes added for the rotor holding ring.

View attachment 83794 View attachment 83795 View attachment 83797 View attachment 83796

Most likely both the sprocket and rotor nuts could have been torqued to 70 ft/lbs in half the time it took to post this with no stress to either the gearbox or primary (which is a duplex with inboard stator and rotor)

View attachment 83798 View attachment 83799

It might be noted the frame has 47+ year old factory paint, the bodywork paint from 2005 and none of those silly 12 point nuts.
Click to expand...

Time Warp said:
I can't see any mass production being done on manual machines.

Not maintenance but a favourite, it takes a little setting up but allows a new D/S camshaft bush to be reamed then with the upper top replaced with another bolt on mandrel guide that passes though the then reamed to size bush, the T/S bush can be done with the cases together.

View attachment 83813 View attachment 83814
Click to expand...
Awesome tooling...
 
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Time Warp said:
I can't see any mass production being done on manual machines.

Not maintenance but a favourite, it takes a little setting up but allows a new D/S camshaft bush to be reamed then with the upper top replaced with another bolt on mandrel guide that passes though the then reamed to size bush, the T/S bush can be done with the cases together.

View attachment 83813 View attachment 83814
Click to expand...
TW...post some pics of you shop or preferred tools.
 
I'd forgotten about this tool I made a couple of years ago. It's a 25mm cutting disc screwed and glued to a length of wooden dowel.

So just for fun, what did I use it for?

1643279481911.png
 
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