timing issues 850 commando

folks, i have a 74 850 roadster

i thinbk the timing might be out but i do not have enough movement on the electronic boyer slot

i set the other side to 30 btdc or even 29, but i cannot adjust the ignition enough to see the dot through the hole,

it just had complete topend rebuild but i am getting savage recoil afraid it will break my leg if not sorted

any ideas folks the plugs are nearly white also so points at timing as does the kick back she runs great when running starts first kick mostly if it does not kick back

i have single mikuni carb on her , like i said runs and pulls like a train ,just want to sort timing

its a boyer ignition , new battery,plugs,oils and filter

thanks folks,would love to actually chat on the fone to someone about this if possible my number is 00353 876678566 im in ireland

Hi Head, You will need to remove the magnet rotor and adjust it's position slightly.

See the Boyer instruction sheet paragraph 23...

And the dot positioning is just to get the bike started and the timing will likely still be off so strobing is essential.

kommando said:

And the dot positioning is just to get the bike started and the timing will likely still be off so strobing is essential.

Click to expand...

ok forgive my ignorance i do have a strobe with 2 2 clamps and another clamp to go on plug lead, do i connect the 2 clamps to the battery also ?, there is also a dial guage on the rear of the strobe dont know what that is for, so basically i dont know how to use a strobe lol,

cliffa said:

Hi Head, You will need to remove the magnet rotor and adjust it's position slightly.

See the Boyer instruction sheet paragraph 23...

http://boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00053.pdf

Click to expand...

ok will try later thanks so much for ur help mate and ur time

Head said:

ok forgive my ignorance i do have a strobe with 2 2 clamps and another clamp to go on plug lead, do i connect the 2 clamps to the battery also ?, there is also a dial guage on the rear of the strobe dont know what that is for, so basically i dont know how to use a strobe lol,

Click to expand...

The two clamps are usually a positive and negative that attach to a (preferably separate) 12V battery.

The sliding clamp clips over a plug lead (either one as the Boyer is wasted spark) with the arrow pointing towards the spark plug.

Head said:

there is also a dial guage on the rear of the strobe dont know what that is for

Click to expand...

That should be set to zero.

L.A.B. said:

The two clamps are usually a positive and negative that attach to a (preferably separate) 12V battery.

The sliding clamp clips over a plug lead (either one as the Boyer is wasted spark) with the arrow pointing towards the spark plug.




That should be set to zero.

Click to expand...

thanks mate ur a gent its somewhere for me to start tonight

Also, to reposition the Boyer rotor.

Remove the 1/4" (BSF) bolt, screw a 5/16" UNF bolt a few turns into the rotor thread then gently knock the head of the bolt in different directions with a hammer and the rotor should release from the camshaft taper.

You should also verify that the timing scale on the primary cover is accurate...reports of it being out 1-5 degrees are common. Need a timing degree wheel for this and I use a piston stop to do the procedure. Primary needs to come off, attach wheel to rotor in some way (i hold it on with the rotor nut). Make a pointer out of some reasonably stiff wire, attached on to somewhere nearby the wheel edge (I just wrap it on the primary cover mounting stud). Rotate the degree wheel so that the pointer is at zero on the scale while the engine is rotated to near TDC on compression stroke and the piston stop (made on out of old spark plug outer metal body, old spoke and some epoxy) is in contact with piston. Then roate engine opposite direction until piston once again contacts piston. Determine how many degrees between the two stop points and divide by 2....that number is where on the wheel the engine is at TDC. Remove stop, rotat engine to that indicated degree. Without moving engine (nowat TDC), turn wheel so pointer reads zero. Now rotate engine to desired BTDC degree (28 to 30 is normal for most ignitions on Commando). Without distrubing engine crank, remove degree wheel/pointer and carefully refit outer primary and confirm what the timing scale on the cover reads in relation to the rotor's timing mark. That will tell you how far out yours is and you can compensate when reading it with the timing light setup.

L.A.B. said:

Also, to reposition the Boyer rotor.

Remove the 1/4" (BSF) bolt, screw a 5/16" UNF bolt a few turns into the rotor thread then gently knock the head of the bolt in different directions with a hammer and the rotor should release from the camshaft taper.

Click to expand...

thanks mate done it last night had to move it nearly 1/8 put it all back together and now works great no kickback so far seems to run smoother also

Head said:

thanks mate done it last night had to move it nearly 1/8 put it all back together and now works great no kickback so far seems to run smoother also

Click to expand...

Good to hear