Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife

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Dan1950 said:
I've pulled one Norton engine sprocket, but I've pulled numerous tapered drive hubs, sprockets, etc. The shock of a 1/2" impact driver on high setting hammering the puller screw always does the trick for me. Likewise on the gearbox mainshaft nut that is said to require heat and extreme methods of holding the case/shaft. Shock is a valuable ally.

Not to mention that I made my living for over 20 years as a skilled tradesman in industrial maintenance so yeah I might have a bit more experience solving mechanical problems than many on here. It matters not whether you ate working on Norton Commando or a 966 Cat loader, mechanical principals are the same.

And why do you assume that I am the only one on here that knows the benefits of an impact driver when pulling stubborn assemblies?
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I assume that you must know " best " the benefits of an impact driver because you state it Do you know what an askhole is?
 
Derek Wilson said:
Hmmm.... humility on the other hand....

Remind me again - what do you need us for?
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I have gotten invaluable information on this site about things I have little knowledge of when it comes to these bikes.

I don't need condescending remarks about things like pulling a tapered assemblies. That is not a Norton Commando specific problem.

Sorry form trying to be helpful.

If you have an air compressor an air impact driver will make life much easier when tackling some of these difficult removal problems.

Don't have an air compressor? Battery technology has made portable electric impact drivers as effective as all but the most powerful air impacts drivers.

In either case it will make life a lot easier if you plan on doing a lot of your own work.
 
With regards to impact wrenches, I agree totally.

I have completely abandoned my air impact, in favour of Dewalt 20V impacts, of which I have 4 different ones (and a bit of a tool addiction).

The largest one that I have advertises a stall torque of 1200 ft.lb and I would put up against a cheaper pneumatic 3/4" drive impact. Obviously, that one does not come out around the Norton (lol), but is great for working on the dually!!
 
'I've pulled one Norton engine sprocket, but I've pulled numerous tapered drive hubs, sprockets, etc. The shock of a 1/2" impact driver on high setting hammering the puller screw always does the trick for me. Likewise on the gearbox mainshaft nut that is said to require heat and extreme methods of holding the case/shaft. Shock is a valuable ally.'

Not sure the gearbox mainshaft has ever been presented as needing heat, thought those shenanigans were the sole preserve of the crank sprocket? Happy to learn otherwise, though..

As for 'impact?', do these air/battery powered tools operate as the manual ones? As in using motion in one direction to be converted to motion in another? I ask because I wonder if it's good practice to apply sideways impact to any shaft with bearings in the equation?

Again, just looking for informed opinion...
 
Derek Wilson said:
With regards to impact wrenches, I agree totally.

I have completely abandoned my air impact, in favour of Dewalt 20V impacts, of which I have 4 different ones (and a bit of a tool addiction).

The largest one that I have advertises a stall torque of 1200 ft.lb and I would put up against a cheaper pneumatic 3/4" drive impact. Obviously, that one does not come out around the Norton (lol), but is great for working on the dually!!
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(IMO) There really isn't a valid reason to buy an air impact driver these days given the advances in battery powered impact drivers.

Going back to the post that started all of this drama. Has anyone ever failed to remove a Commando engine sprocket using an impact driver without resorting to heat/penetrant?
 
EstuaryBoy said:
'I've pulled one Norton engine sprocket, but I've pulled numerous tapered drive hubs, sprockets, etc. The shock of a 1/2" impact driver on high setting hammering the puller screw always does the trick for me. Likewise on the gearbox mainshaft nut that is said to require heat and extreme methods of holding the case/shaft. Shock is a valuable ally.'

Not sure the gearbox mainshaft has ever been presented as needing heat, thought those shenanigans were the sole preserve of the crank sprocket? Happy to learn otherwise, though..

As for 'impact?', do these air/battery powered tools operate as the manual ones? As in using motion in one direction to be converted to motion in another? I ask because I wonder if it's good practice to apply sideways impact to any shaft with bearings in the equation?

Again, just looking for informed opinion...
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Old Brits disassembly instructions cite the difficulty of removing the mainshaft nut and using heat. I think this may stem from the difficulty of holding the mainshft.
 
Dan1950 said:
(IMO) There really isn't a valid reason to buy an air impact driver these days given the advances in battery powered impact drivers.

Going back to the post that started all of this drama. Has anyone ever failed to remove a Commando engine sprocket using an impact driver without resorting to heat/penetrant?
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I always use a puller to remove the engine sprocket. Basically a steering wheel puller.
 
Dan1950 said:
Going back to the post that started all of this drama. Has anyone ever failed to remove a Commando engine sprocket using an impact driver without resorting to heat/penetrant?
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Yes. I have had my impact driver bend and destroy the puller bar without freeing the sprocket. Adding heat was necessary for success.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
'I've pulled one Norton engine sprocket, but I've pulled numerous tapered drive hubs, sprockets, etc. The shock of a 1/2" impact driver on high setting hammering the puller screw always does the trick for me. Likewise on the gearbox mainshaft nut that is said to require heat and extreme methods of holding the case/shaft. Shock is a valuable ally.'

Not sure the gearbox mainshaft has ever been presented as needing heat, thought those shenanigans were the sole preserve of the crank sprocket? Happy to learn otherwise, though..

As for 'impact?', do these air/battery powered tools operate as the manual ones? As in using motion in one direction to be converted to motion in another? I ask because I wonder if it's good practice to apply sideways impact to any shaft with bearings in the equation?

Again, just looking for informed opinion...
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Not sure of the mechanics involved but the principle of shock is similar for both. The hand drivers have the added benefit of forcing a Phillip's head driver bit into the screw head. In fact, an old trick if you don't have a hand impact driver is to[place a screw driver into the screw head and hit the end of the handle with a dead blow hammer. The "shock" will often break the mechanical seizure.

I purchased a hand impact driver yesterday evening at Harbor Freight to remove the #3 Phillip's screws in my Yamaha EGR valve.
 
Derek Wilson said:
I always use a puller to remove the engine sprocket. Basically a steering wheel puller.
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That's what I used. I had to hunt down some 5/16" 24 X 4" grade 8 machine screws to fit the treads in the sprocket. Once I snugged down the center screw, the break was instantaneous when I hit the trigger.
 
Dan1950 said:
Not sure of the mechanics involved but the principle of shock is similar for both. The hand drivers have the added benefit of forcing a Phillip's head driver bit into the screw head. In fact, an old trick if you don't have a hand impact driver is to[place a screw driver into the screw head and hit the end of the handle with a dead blow hammer. The "shock" will often break the mechanical seizure.

I purchased a hand impact driver yesterday evening at Harbor Freight to remove the #3 Phillip's screws in my Yamaha EGR valve.
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That wasn't the 'thrust' of my question..... I was just wondering if it's a good idea to introduce that kind of shock to any assembly that includes bearings...
 
maylar said:
Yes. I have had my impact driver bend and destroy the puller bar without freeing the sprocket. Adding heat was necessary for success.
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My puller is homemade - chunk of 1" square bar, a 5/8" threaded rod for a screw, and a pair of 6" grade 8 5/16"-24 screws. It doesn't bend - lol
 
maylar said:
Yes. I have had my impact driver bend and destroy the puller bar without freeing the sprocket. Adding heat was necessary for success.
Click to expand...

EstuaryBoy said:
That wasn't the 'thrust' of my question..... I was just wondering if it's a good idea to introduce that kind of shock to any assembly that includes bearings...
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The air/battery impact driver is not imparting the shock of a manual impact driver. It is rotary shock and imparts no more impact on the bearing/crank than when using a spanner on the puller.

The shock is contained between the center screw and the bolts screwed into the sprocket.
 
maylar said:
Yes. I have had my impact driver bend and destroy the puller bar without freeing the sprocket. Adding heat was necessary for success.
Click to expand...
Derek Wilson said:
My puller is homemade - chunk of 1" square bar, a 5/8" threaded rod for a screw, and a pair of 6" grade 8 5/16"-24 screws. It doesn't bend - lol
Click to expand...
Derek Wilson said:
I always use a puller to remove the engine sprocket. Basically a steering wheel puller.
Click to expand...
Dan1950 said:
That's what I used. I had to hunt down some 5/16" 24 X 4" grade 8 machine screws to fit the treads in the sprocket. Once I snugged down the center screw, the break was instantaneous when I hit the trigger.
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I was going to attribute the "failure" to the puller, but didn't want to come across as an "askhole". :rolleyes:
 
The "impact shock warning" is issued in the two-stroke world, where rotational impacts can (theoretically) damage the ROLLER type rod bearings. The significant INERTIA (mass) of the crankshaft absorbs the shocks just fine, from my experience. JMWO
 
Derek Wilson said:
My puller is homemade - chunk of 1" square bar, a 5/8" threaded rod for a screw, and a pair of 6" grade 8 5/16"-24 screws. It doesn't bend - lol
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What is the shape of the end of the 5/8 rod where it contacts the crank?
 
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