Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife

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MichaelB said:
$1,000.00 comes in small packages.....:D
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The gearbox rebuild kit, 13mm front master cylinder, front Vernier isolastic kit and rear hub cover were the most expensive items. Probably more than 1/2 of the total expense. I was going to polish the existing rear hub cover but it has numerous small dents and dings.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife
 
concours said:
....just the beginning.
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Until I feel the need to unbutton the engine I think I have pretty well gotten to where I want the bike.

The bike already had numerous upgrades.

Old Britts oil pressure gage
CNW oil tank mod
Hagon shocks
Kegler swing arm pivot clamps
MK III head steady
MK III kick start
LED instrument lights
Tri-Spark ignition/coils
Podtronics regulator
3 Phase alternator stator.
Rear Vernier isolastics

My planned upgrades purchased so far;

Barnett clutch
LED head lights
Goff's LED tail light board
LED turn indicator bulbs
Goff's LED Warning light Tweaker
Yamaha EGR one way reed valve breather hack
Waldridge SS braided front brake hose
13mm front MC
SS brake caliper pistons
New caliper seals
Ferodo brake pads
Vernier front isolastics
Complete gearbox rebuild including all new seals, bushings, bearings and springs
New rear brake drum bearing/seals/bolt retainers
Rear drum retainer groove machined for larger circlip
Replace long bellows gators with short American style gators
New Champion spark plugs
New nut retainers/seals in primary case
Add oil pressure warning light in headlight nacelle

I'm seriously considering the RGM High Friction MZ Gold rear brake shoes

Not wanting to change the appearance much other than polishing up the aluminum. The little nicks and scrapes give the bike character IMO.

So, what's left?
 
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cliffa said:
Mor

Wow !! more crazy wheelies ? :p
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It's a rather funny story, I'd heard of the weak second gear. Whilst visiting Daytona/Nortona, I was departing from an establishment, pulling smartly onto a busy four lane (Ocean Shore Blvd., A1A) and was visually distracted whilst changing up 1-2, so, incomplete snick and WFO (for SAFETY of course) caused a loud BANG, then the thumping. Rode 700 miles more that week by skip-shifting.
 
Dan1950 said:
Parts are in.

Parts were sorted according to use. Primary case, rear brake, caliper rebuild, gearbox rebuild, front Vernier isolastic, 13mm master cylinder and a few misc. parts. Nearly $1000 in parts counting the $148 in parts from Commando Specialties.

Time for Trixie to Go Under the knife
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Yes but you have also raised the value of the machine $500
 
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Dan, if you can find a neat old oil pressure gauge (smiths?) It is easy to attach to rocker feed line.
I have a gauge and oil light.

Edit - well nevermind, I see you have a gauge. So, how bout some nice new fork internals?
 
concours said:
It's a rather funny story, I'd heard of the weak second gear. Whilst visiting Daytona/Nortona, I was departing from an establishment, pulling smartly onto a busy four lane (Ocean Shore Blvd., A1A) and was visually distracted whilst changing up 1-2, so, incomplete snick and WFO (for SAFETY of course) caused a loud BANG, then the thumping. Rode 700 miles more that week by skip-shifting.
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"visually distracted" - you mean ogling? ;)
 
Dan1950 said:
Until I feel the need to unbutton the engine I think I have pretty well gotten to where I want the bike.

The bike already had numerous upgrades.

Old Britts oil pressure gage
CNW oil tank mod
Hagon shocks
Kegler swing arm pivot clamps
MK III head steady
MK III kick start
LED instrument lights
Tri-Spark ignition/coils
Podtronics regulator
3 Phase alternator stator.
Rear Vernier isolastics

My planned upgrades purchased so far;

Barnett clutch
LED head lights
Goff's LED tail light board
LED turn indicator bulbs
Goff's LED Warning light Tweaker
Yamaha EGR one way reed valve breather hack
Waldridge SS braided front brake hose
13mm front MC
SS brake caliper pistons
New caliper seals
Ferodo brake pads
Vernier front isolastics
Complete gearbox rebuild including all new seals, bushings, bearings and springs
New rear brake drum bearing/seals/bolt retainers
Rear drum retainer groove machined for larger circlip
Replace long bellows gators with short American style gators
New Champion spark plugs
New nut retainers/seals in primary case
Add oil pressure warning light in headlight nacelle

I'm seriously considering the RGM High Friction MZ Gold rear brake shoes

Not wanting to change the appearance much other than polishing up the aluminum. The little nicks and scrapes give the bike character IMO.

So, what's left?
Click to expand...
If you are moving to LED lighting, and if you have a LED headlight (?), and since you have no e-start, you likely are running hard with a 3-phase stator. Your Podtronics will fail (dont ask how I know). Consider one of two options - a normal output stator, or a MOSFET reg/rect.

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Dan1950 said:
I just ordered this.

www.ebay.com

Bel-Ray Gear Saver Transmission Oil 80W 1 Liter | eBay

Bel-Ray Gear Saver Transmission Oil is a gear oil that has been developed for the unique demands of all motorcycle transmissions equipped with wet clutches. Riding Gear. Casual Parts & Accessories Body Drive Tires and Wheels Riding Gear.
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I won't use that stuff again, it's the same colour as ATF fluid which would make it difficult to determine what is dripping
 
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Dan1950 said:
Just ordered the deep well socket linked in a post above.

I use my air impact as well as my 1/4' drive air ratchet (with 3/8" adaptor) as much as possible.

Everyone told me how hard it would be to pull the engine sprocket, requiring heat, etc. I quick blast with the air impact on my puller popped the sprocket right off.
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No need for heat. A spay penetrant before the removal.
 
baz said:
I'm guessing you must have a lot more experience of pulling these sprockets than anyone on this forum
How many have you pulled?
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I've pulled one Norton engine sprocket, but I've pulled numerous tapered drive hubs, sprockets, etc. The shock of a 1/2" impact driver on high setting hammering the puller screw always does the trick for me. Likewise on the gearbox mainshaft nut that is said to require heat and extreme methods of holding the case/shaft. Shock is a valuable ally.

Not to mention that I made my living for over 20 years as a skilled tradesman in industrial maintenance so yeah I might have a bit more experience solving mechanical problems than many on here. It matters not whether you ate working on Norton Commando or a 966 Cat loader, mechanical principals are the same.

And why do you assume that I am the only one on here that knows the benefits of an impact driver when pulling stubborn assemblies?
 
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