Strange Frame (2)
- Thread starter olChris
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Got that sorted now with a cable adjuster on the gearbox......... it musta had a shoulder in the alloy cover, but i dont know 4 sure.. Seems to work ok now and have move on to tomorrows issue........... Forks "topping" out. Clunks with metalic sound @ top position when brake applied and pumping forks in a static position.... :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
L.A.B. said:
Your most likely right LAB but my MK3 does not do it and ive been reading the following as you posted previously... Just had a thought also that whilst "clunking" i had a 25mm thick board under centre stand and no weight at all was in front wheel and it was "cee-sawing" on the board... In hindsight not a fair test.
http://www.nocnsw.org.au/technical/norton-roadholders
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olChris said:
Mine does.
Yes, it had the Covenant kit fitted for a while which I subsequently replaced with the extended RGM upper bushes.
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/extra-lo ... g_2298.htm
The forks still clunk if they are allowed to extend fully 'at rest'. I also fitted the Lansdowne fork dampers at the same time but they are the early version without the buffers that John subsequently incorporated into the design. When 'under way' there's no clunk
Done a bit of driveway shakedown and this "19inch" cable that i acquired has to go... As previously posted photos show the tight angles that are the end result of being too short... Up and down the driveway and around the lemon tree a few time i find the brake cable now comes to rest on top of the muffler bolt and in effect pulls firmly on the brake when on centre stand.. But free when full static bike weight and a bit of spring compression is applied..
I can imagine flying over whooopps in the road and bkake will apply.. So a longer cable with switch is required 21inch would have done it ??? (maybe) but olBritt's have dropped that cable length from their supply line..
Therefore does anybody know where i can buy a 21inch+ cable with switch... I think this would be very close to "standard" no switch cable, but i would like one with a switch...
I can imagine flying over whooopps in the road and bkake will apply.. So a longer cable with switch is required 21inch would have done it ??? (maybe) but olBritt's have dropped that cable length from their supply line..
Therefore does anybody know where i can buy a 21inch+ cable with switch... I think this would be very close to "standard" no switch cable, but i would like one with a switch...
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ITS USUALLY A GOOD IDEA TO PUT A SRONG RETURN SPRING ON THE FOOT BRAKE PEDAL SO WHY NOT ATTATCH THAT SPRING TO A BRKE SWITCH LIKE I DID. [ IT IS A JAP SWITCH BUT IT WORKS AND IS OUT OF THE WAY SO A ROCK OR STICK WONT SMASH IT OFF LIKE HAPPENED TO ME.
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Any Inline Cable Switches tend to give excess freeplay & takeup . Can make things all spongey .
Remember the old pull up stop hands on trucks . :lol:
A stop light switch from the pedalbox of a Valiant or ford might do the trick , from up under the dash . A flash one'd be waterproof .
Remember the old pull up stop hands on trucks . :lol:
A stop light switch from the pedalbox of a Valiant or ford might do the trick , from up under the dash . A flash one'd be waterproof .
Fast Eddie
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olChris said:Well just a few minor issues to sort then off to licencing next week
6 months since the first pictures on the now banished original "Strange Frame"... Wont know what to do with myself next week :cry: :cry: :cry:
Chris,
Funny ole thing this internet innit? I've followed your thread since the first 'Strange Frame' post. And its really nice to see the finished article. I guess its a bit like TV addicts who feel and affinity with TV soap opera characters, but I feel kinda involved in your build!
The bike looks great mate, credit to ya, so, persevere with this annoying brake cable niggle and enjoy (not like you needed telling tho eh?) !!
Sitting and pondering the issues with the brake cable i came up with this "adaptor", which almost cures my two problems..
1. now the dramatic angle of the "tensioned" cable has been significantly reduced to almost a straight pull..
2. Because that angle is now not so great it has "given" more length to the outer cable, because the path of outer cable is straighter... Real good chance it wont foul the muffler bolt now when underway!!
3. You can see where the cable is surpposed to go.. On the bottom bolt/nyloc.. The hole position in the adaptor is further from the axis than original and will require more pressure to activated.. I could easily lock brake up at 15kph (testing) so not worried re extra pressure required.. (cant be any worse than my MK3 rear disc)
1. now the dramatic angle of the "tensioned" cable has been significantly reduced to almost a straight pull..
2. Because that angle is now not so great it has "given" more length to the outer cable, because the path of outer cable is straighter... Real good chance it wont foul the muffler bolt now when underway!!
3. You can see where the cable is surpposed to go.. On the bottom bolt/nyloc.. The hole position in the adaptor is further from the axis than original and will require more pressure to activated.. I could easily lock brake up at 15kph (testing) so not worried re extra pressure required.. (cant be any worse than my MK3 rear disc)
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