Strange Frame (2)

Status
Not open for further replies.
olChris said:
There is obviously a well kept secret to fitting these springs..

Strange Frame (2)
Click to expand...
That's quite the setup you have there! You are wearing safety glasses, aren't you?
'Haven't had the displeasure of trying this myself on the center stand, but on side stands and the like, an easier way is to remove the pivot bolt(s), connect the spring at both ends, roll the offending piece of iron into place, then insert the bolt(s). Sometimes it takes two; one to pull on the iron, the other to insert hardware.
You're wearing gloves, also? 'Sorry; I get all jittery at the thought of unleashed springs. All it takes is one to hook you in the meaty part of your palm. Sure, the scars are cool, but it's a bitch riding with your hand all swollen.
 
I love the creativity and dangers encountered 1st few attempts dealing with center stand spring. Some put on a hinge bolt in loose then hook spring then use stand as lever to slip in the 2nd hinge bolt though easier to write than do it single handed. I've tried the coin and washer spreading but made spring so stiff i could not bend to get hook inserted so ain't mastered that way yet.
 
Looking Good .

usually work out where the stand is with the spring slackest . Consider spring first then bolts . :lol: Usually use a loop of wire and HEAVE that then flick sping end in .

Strange Frame (2)


This is the dude that fits them at Royal enfield . :P :)
 
Mikuni VM34 is the carby that came in my basket initially stripped/cleaned/inspected and installed... Well i have finally got this 72 "started" with a great deal of effort (too much). Seems to have trouble getting that initial bit of fuel from the enrichener.. I can put a squirt down the plug hole and if it fires and runs the first kick she will run happily.. NOt so easy to start when warmed up....

The carb is "unknown" as they say but the slide is still fully chromed/nickled with just a slight discolouration through wear. So looks ! good to me...

Soooo JET SIZES, i have in the carb a .029 main jet and a idle jet with 45 ??? on it . Is this the norm for a stock 750 or can someone verify these sizes are tooo big or OK or whatever..

(after the 300 kicks i given it over the last 4 day, it gotta get easier than this) :D :D :D :D
 
olChris said:
Soooo JET SIZES, i have in the carb a .029 main jet and a idle jet with 45 ??? on it . Is this the norm for a stock 750 or can someone verify these sizes are tooo big or OK or whatever..

(after the 300 kicks i given it over the last 4 day, it gotta get easier than this) :D :D :D :D
Click to expand...

I'll have to break mine open later today (work sometimes takes precedence...) and give you the particulars. The 45 for the idle seems to be in the ballpark, but please revisit the main jet's number. I'd expect something like 150-160. Mickey jet numbers are very easy to decipher; move the decimal place two to the left, and you have the diameter in millimeters, eg;
45 = 0.45mm/0.0177"
160 = 1.60mm/0.063"

300 kicks? Show us that right leg!
 
Puckit, timing case coming off tommorow to recheck timing dots............. checked, checked and rechecked the timing (Wassel Electronic).. needs to be 32+degrees to start.......... I have a recolection the cam had a 2S stamped on it but am unsure where to time it (maybe ol'combat) ....... Grrrrrr.. So cover coming off tmorrow to check dots and links.. :x :x :x

when, on the odd occasion its going its very responsive.. Stops, wont start, wont start, wont start. So i puck with the timing and mixtures, starts and after i turn off, thats it .. wont start. Grrrrrrrrr

:lol: :lol: went to the M/C auctions yesterday and if i purchased (i didnt) it must have an electric starter was all i could think.... :D :D
 
Did I say 160 main? Of all the things I've lost, it's my mind I miss the most. Here's what's in my 34mm:

Main jet - 240
Idle jet - 40
Needle - 6DH3
Needle jet - 159/O-8
Slide - 2.5

As far as starting goes, assuming your enricher system is working properly, only the idle jet will make any real difference. btw, at the risk of becoming overly remedial, make sure the throttle is completely closed whenever you're attempting to start cold with the enricher on. The moment the throttle is opened any amount, the enricher quits working, and you go lean.

Nathan
 
Well i think ive sorted my starting issues... Me be being an "electronic baffoon" and not understanding what diodes, assililators, capacitors actually do leave me a bit hamstrung..
Was using a 8-9volt (crap12v) battery with jumper leads to start it and it would occasionally and run happily @ 2k+rpm (in the mean time i give the jumper leads the flick) and reduce revs to 1k+ and lower and it would stop/stall.. So with hindsight i figured that generator is not producing enough power to contribute to crap 12v battery at low revs, therefore not enough power was available to/for the "Wassel" electronic ignition.

Soooo put a brand new battery in with no jumpers etc and the bastard thing started. And numerous times afterwards... FFS, basic basic basic stuff

OK i know that, ive read a 1000 times that you need a good battery to make starting a commando easier, but i "assumed" jumper leads would solve the starting issues..

WRONG.. just another learning curve sorted :D :D :D :D
 
Wiring question.. I have fitted a Wassell electronic ignition and all "now" runs good... Tho, in my haste "forgot" to connect/make provision for kill switch .

The Wassell wiring diagram is exactly the same as the Boyer below.. (couldnt find a Wassell diag).. But the only difference is the main white, in the Wassell diagram it goes back to the ignition switch and no mention of kill switch ...

But the Boyer gives you a choice in the the diagram below tho the wire colors for my kill switch dont correspond... In my l/hand switch cluster i have a white/red connected to bottom push button and when pressed will "earth" out to chassis if i put my test light between to complete a circuit. I figure that this is the kill switch button, never had a pre75 before so dont know for sure..

So i am confused where to connect this white/red wire to acheive a kill switch..



http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT000 ... 00017_.pdf
 
olChris said:
In my l/hand switch cluster i have a white/red connected to bottom push button and when pressed will "earth" out to chassis if i put my test light between to complete a circuit. I figure that this is the kill switch button, never had a pre75 before so dont know for sure..
Click to expand...

White/red is the output wire from the 'unused' push button which was originally intended to operate an electric starter that the factory never got around to fitting before the 850 Mk3.

This white/red wire should not have any continuity to earth or you will have a short circuit if you press the button when the ignition is switched on unless the feed to the switch (white) has been disconnected.
In any case, the starter switch is the wrong type of switch as it momentarily 'makes' the circuit when pressed instead of 'breaks' it, which is what is required and what the actual kill switch does, it interrupts the power supply to the ignition when the button is pressed and thus 'kills' the ignition.

The wire running from the actual kill button switch to the ignition should normally be white/yellow ('WY' on wiring diag.) once again, the feed to this switch is normally the white that feeds the starter button, the kill button being the other push button on the switch cluster.
 
L.A.B. said:
olChris said:
I 'breaks' it, which is what is required and what the actual kill switch does, it interrupts the power supply to the ignition when the button is pressed and thus 'kills' the ignition.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So that infers that the supply of power "must go through" the switch cluster via the top push button..... ??????
 
A not uncommon arrangement.
Same as power for the lights goes through the handlebar switch....
 
Sorted!! Thanks LAB and Rohan.. I used the white/yellow that gets feed by the white, it "use to" go to the ballast resistor, which is now redundant...

I guess most of you knew this, but i didnt and again learnt something else :D :D :D
 
olChris said:
Sorted!! Thanks LAB and Rohan.. I used the white/yellow that gets feed by the white, it "use to" go to the ballast resistor, which is now redundant...

I guess most of you knew this, but i didnt and again learnt something else :D :D :D
Click to expand...

Huhh, sounded like a good idea but wont give me spark at plugs :? :? :? :? :?
 
olChris said:
olChris said:
Sorted!! Thanks LAB and Rohan.. I used the white/yellow that gets feed by the white, it "use to" go to the ballast resistor, which is now redundant...

I guess most of you knew this, but i didnt and again learnt something else :D :D :D
Click to expand...

Huhh, sounded like a good idea but wont give me spark at plugs :? :? :? :? :?
Click to expand...

Well, the white/yellow from the handlebar switch button is the correct 'ignition feed' wire, so there must be a wiring fault or, very likely, a fault within the switch itself, or, something isn't connected correctly?

Presumably, there's no power leaving the switch through the white/yellow?
Is power reaching the switch?
Have you checked for continuity between the switch cluster white and white/yellow wires?
 
Ive had a bit of input from a fresh head.. Seems i was not putting the ignition switch in the right position :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: . Its always the simple/basic stuff that is overlooked (in my case).. So still learning..

Switch worked perfectly once i chased the y/w as LAB previously indicated....... Just got the master/key switch positioning wrong... :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

If you dont ask questions, you dont get any answers.. End of the day it all works out.. :D :D
 
.
New day, new issue.. This newish cable came with my basket and duly used.. Now the motor is running (and stopping) as it should driveway adjustments underway..

BUT.. the end of cable shown pulled straight through "into" the gearbox after a bit of use.. Seems there is no Shoulder or ridge in the alloy casing to retain the cable?????... Is there meant to be a shoulder within the cable access hole??? .. I cant see any scars or indications where there was a shoulder..

I cant say for sure if this cable is correct for this 72 G/Box, (or even Norton !) but appears same as my MK3 and fits lever end perfectly..



Strange Frame (2)
 
I got new Venhill cable it doesn't have that black plastic end bit that yours has on the photo. The outer cable fits into gearbox case hole so I guess that's the problem. Remove it or just get new correct cable.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Big_Jim59
I Feel Done (and It's Really Strange.)
2 3
Replies
45
Views
1,660
robs ss
robs ss
gpzkat
N15CS rear fender loop - strange angle on it!
Replies
10
Views
928
mdt-son
M
gortnipper
Fabien's bike: A Matchless 500 in a Rickman frame
Replies
13
Views
3,255
jbruney
jbruney
M
  • Locked
frame straightness
2
Replies
39
Views
5,780
gripper
gripper
P
  • Locked
1971 SS frame: strange numbers stamped on
Replies
4
Views
951
B+Bogus
B+Bogus
Back
Top