Starts but won't run

TonyA said:
If it rained and that is IF . California doesn't get a lot of rain . The air box air temp sensor ? Make sure the battery is fully charged .
Click to expand...
Where is this "air box air temp sensor" located?
 
Claudio said:
at the top of the airbox, accessible by removing the tank
Click to expand...

Correction. Only need to remove seat and air filter. Reach in towards tank top side of airbox. Use isopropyl on a clean cloth and wipe oil off sensor.
Sadly this needs to be done often if you haven’t addressed oil in airbox fix.
 
The connector comes in from the top of the air box and is hidden beneath the frame backbone tube . The best access is when you lower the air box . Do you get a lot of oil in the air box ? You should check it and clean it like Richard said. Check the tip over as well.
 
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!! The hose that goes from the IAVC to what is called the IAVC Take Off ( a short piece of aluminum tube located between the throttle bodies just behind the cylinder) had popped off. That was 100% the reason for all the trouble. I pushed the hose back on, cranked the starter, it fired right up and settled down to 1200rpm about as fast as it ever has! This hose is just pushed on at both ends. There are no clamps of any type. So....get on out to your bikes and check this hose and give it a downwards tug if necessary.
 
Clamp it . When Cootes go over the bikes , that gets clamped . Too much air would not even keep running ! Good Find ! I started my bike up today just to hear it run and idle . :)
 
I had been over that area multiple times with a flashlight the past couple of days. It is real hard to visually tell if the hose is fully seated. I finally started pushing and lightly tugging on wires/hoses etc. and that's when I finally discovered it. Bummer that I missed the All-British ride this past Saturday because of all this. That's okay though as we are now entering the best riding time of the year here... as long as it doesn't rain.
 
SgtUSAF80 said:
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!! The hose that goes from the IAVC to what is called the IAVC Take Off ( a short piece of aluminum tube located between the throttle bodies just behind the cylinder) had popped off. That was 100% the reason for all the trouble. I pushed the hose back on, cranked the starter, it fired right up and settled down to 1200rpm about as fast as it ever has! This hose is just pushed on at both ends. There are no clamps of any type. So....get on out to your bikes and check this hose and give it a downwards tug if necessary.
Click to expand...
A vacuum leak
 
SgtUSAF80 said:
I had been over that area multiple times with a flashlight the past couple of days. It is real hard to visually tell if the hose is fully seated. I finally started pushing and lightly tugging on wires/hoses etc. and that's when I finally discovered it. Bummer that I missed the All-British ride this past Saturday because of all this. That's okay though as we are now entering the best riding time of the year here... as long as it doesn't rain.
Click to expand...
Glad you found it, it was a simple fix and at least as you say you have the rest of the riding season ahead - Happy Days !!


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
SgtUSAF80 said:
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!! The hose that goes from the IAVC to what is called the IAVC Take Off ( a short piece of aluminum tube located between the throttle bodies just behind the cylinder) had popped off. That was 100% the reason for all the trouble. I pushed the hose back on, cranked the starter, it fired right up and settled down to 1200rpm about as fast as it ever has! This hose is just pushed on at both ends. There are no clamps of any type. So....get on out to your bikes and check this hose and give it a downwards tug if necessary.
Click to expand...

Now that's new one to log into the book of potential 961 issues.
Good work.
 
speirmoor said:
Where is this "air box air temp sensor" located on the Dominator?
Click to expand...
I’m sure this is it ,answering my own Q here
Starts but won't run
 
SgtUSAF80 said:
I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!! The hose that goes from the IAVC to what is called the IAVC Take Off ( a short piece of aluminum tube located between the throttle bodies just behind the cylinder) had popped off. That was 100% the reason for all the trouble. I pushed the hose back on, cranked the starter, it fired right up and settled down to 1200rpm about as fast as it ever has! This hose is just pushed on at both ends. There are no clamps of any type. So....get on out to your bikes and check this hose and give it a downwards tug if necessary.
Click to expand...

dammit. Sorry man. I didn’t even think of that. That hose blew off on me so many times in the past. The only way to get a clamp on it is with a lot of work. Like TonyA said, we clamp them all now. Its from those shitty silicone hoses. Otherwise wouldn’t need a clamp. At one point I shoved in a chunk of sponge found on the side of the road to get me home. The next day I took the hours to clamp it. Haven’t had an issue since. Glad you found it.
 
richard-7 said:
dammit. Sorry man. I didn’t even think of that. That hose blew off on me so many times in the past. The only way to get a clamp on it is with a lot of work. Like TonyA said, we clamp them all now. Its from those shitty silicone hoses. Otherwise wouldn’t need a clamp. At one point I shoved in a chunk of sponge found on the side of the road to get me home. The next day I took the hours to clamp it. Haven’t had an issue since. Glad you found it.
Click to expand...
Don't worry about it. All the suggestions/recommendations that were posted were good ones that will probably be of use in the future. How exactly did you get a clamp on that end of the hose? What type of clamp did you end up using? Any shortcuts to doing it now that you have all that vast hose clamping experience? What about sourcing another hose of "better" quality?
 
SgtUSAF80 said:
Don't worry about it. All the suggestions/recommendations that were posted were good ones that will probably be of use in the future. How exactly did you get a clamp on that end of the hose? What type of clamp did you end up using? Any shortcuts to doing it now that you have all that vast hose clamping experience? What about sourcing another hose of "better" quality?
Click to expand...

not sure the exact name but first I used a self clamping clamp. Angled needle nose squeezing and once in place let go. But it only worked for a month or so then back fired (actual bike backfired) and blew off. At first I wasn’t sure what happened but if I kept it running I could hear the air sucking in. but with the throttle body off I was able to use a small stainless hose clamp with a bolt to tighten. Only thing was its a nightmare to tighten because its soo deep in there to get over the lump on the spigot so that shit silicone hose wont slip off. Took many attempts. the right thing to do is use a rubber hose and push it on with angled hose nose pliers. Those Silicone hoses are too slippery for the fitting it goes onto. Especially with oil residue in there.
 
I'd swear that this bike is trying to get back at me for leaving it out in the open for 5 days during our recent fire evacuation....the latest is that it is surging like a buckin' bronco at partial throttle inputs. It starts right up beautifully, briefly goes to 2000rpm and settles down to 1200-1300 just like it is supposed to. I have checked hoses again for a loose one, have switched back and forth between the original NGK's it came with and the Iridiums, checked the airbox and cleaned the air filter and emptied the gas tank and put in fresh fuel. I haven't ridden it yet since the fresh fuel was put in. Also, both types of plugs get a nice even coating of carbon after only a short ride. Any ideas Gentlemen?
 
Lowering the airbox then throttle bodies is the best way . But removing the fuel tank helps alot.
 
Last edited:
richard-7 said:
not sure the exact name but first I used a self clamping clamp. Angled needle nose squeezing and once in place let go. But it only worked for a month or so then back fired (actual bike backfired) and blew off. At first I wasn’t sure what happened but if I kept it running I could hear the air sucking in. but with the throttle body off I was able to use a small stainless hose clamp with a bolt to tighten. Only thing was its a nightmare to tighten because its soo deep in there to get over the lump on the spigot so that shit silicone hose wont slip off. Took many attempts. the right thing to do is use a rubber hose and push it on with angled hose nose pliers. Those Silicone hoses are too slippery for the fitting it goes onto. Especially with oil residue in there.
Click to expand...

Hello Richard-7 , Are you still getting the backfiring ? Is this since the change to New Omex and Omex Map ?
 
SgtUSAF80 said:
I'd swear that this bike is trying to get back at me for leaving it out in the open for 5 days during our recent fire evacuation....the latest is that it is surging like a buckin' bronco at partial throttle inputs. It starts right up beautifully, briefly goes to 2000rpm and settles down to 1200-1300 just like it is supposed to. I have checked hoses again for a loose one, have switched back and forth between the original NGK's it came with and the Iridiums, checked the airbox and cleaned the air filter and emptied the gas tank and put in fresh fuel. I haven't ridden it yet since the fresh fuel was put in. Also, both types of plugs get a nice even coating of carbon after only a short ride. Any ideas Gentlemen?
Click to expand...
Check the IAM bolts, one of the Brits (fan or twit) has had similar issues when the bolts were only very slightly loose.
John
 
Eljahara said:
Check the IAM bolts, one of the Brits (fan or twit) has had similar issues when the bolts were only very slightly loose.
John
Click to expand...

Britfan60 had the "crazy/wild" idle problem that he traced back to loose IAM bolts.

Surging at partial throttle openings could be an issue with the throttle position sensor.
Check the TPS connections.

If the surging is that bad, you know the ecu is having trouble, and is issuing fault codes.
Best thing to do is get an OBD reader to check for ecu fault codes.
Readers are inexpensive, and the codes will help you to narrow down the potential problem(s).
 
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