SPARX STATOR REPAIR

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You can get high temperature "furnace" cable with Teflon insulation from McMaster Carr by the foot. It isn't cheap but is good to 840F and is oil resisitant.

I have used it to repair the Hall effect sensors on my BMW oilhead as they are prone to failure of the factory insulaton, but have never had to repair a Norton stator.........yet.
 
Hi Ron, your wires are interesting , as I would like to put an oil temperature gauge with a sensor in my oil tank and thus I need some oil / high temp resistant wire to fit in as well ....!
 
gripper said:
The standard wire coming out of a Lucas 3 phase stator is 14 strands of 0.28mm (that's about 0.012"). I've dug down to level with the steel plates, can I go deeper?


If you dig on the opposite side directly across from where the wires disappear into the steel plates, you'll find the actual connections to the stator coils.

Mine tested good, circuit-wise, so I just dug out the front and soldered on some new wires. I'm waiting for a long length of shrink tube which will go all the way to the metal and then be encased in new marine epoxy. If you go all the way to the connections on the back side, that will have to be repotted with epoxy, too.

My wires were ok, but the old casing, which had become brittle and stiff, was broken right where the wires turn and go into the front. Since the wires had been previously shortened to make new connections, I just cut them off and attached new wires rather than try to split the casing and reuse what was left. I think hot oil was gaining entry at that point and causing an intermittent short of the output circuit.
 
oil will not cause a short. if that is the trouble you are having you need to look elsewhere.

Danno said:
I think hot oil was gaining entry at that point and causing an intermittent short of the output circuit.
 
marinatlas said:
Hi Ron, your wires are interesting , as I would like to put an oil temperature gauge with a sensor in my oil tank and thus I need some oil / high temp resistant wire to fit in as well ....!

The wire used is a Belden product. There are two options, High-Temperature Shielded Cable for Ovens, with a maximum temperature of 390F and High-Temperature Cable for Furnaces, with a maximum temperature of 840F. Both are Teflon insulated, but Furnace cable has a mica and fiberglass shield for additional temp resistance.

I hope this helps.
 
I've dug out the resin right through to the back face and chased two of the wires about 1 inch in opposite directions along the back face and one short wire close to where the three of them come through. I've got rid of the multi strand wires and soldered on new ptfe insulated wires, heat shrink, and some further fibreglass sleeving to come followed by resin and hardener. better than new........maybe :lol:
 
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