Shindengen (open type SCR) Regulator Installation MK II

Don’t buy one that spells it “Shendengen.” It’s not likely to be a genuine Shindengen.

As someone said earlier, the cheap regulator isn’t that much of a knock-off or fake. It’s just a cheap regulator that works well.
My misspelling, it is Shindengen. Now I know why spell check was not liking Shendengen.
 
The reason I was steered towards the series type regulators is that I am running all LED lighting with the exception of the indicator warning lights in the headlight bucket. Everything I have read recommends series type regulators for LED lighting with 3-phase stators applications. The less current being used the more current being shunted to ground.
 
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I've never paid more than £2 for a reg/rectifier
I just buy a Honda superdream one from an autojumble , the one on my Norton is 40 years old
They work single or three phase they are the shunt type
They don't go wrong
Actually, my oldest bike, a 67 Triumph 500 still has all the original charging equipment and it still works. I also have a 74 Trident that is still all original and working. When building and/or wiring bikes I install the Tri-Spark MOSFET as it (like the others) requires less wiring, has basically no current draw when not running, and charges better at low RPM than anything else I've tried, especially with three-phase. It too is quite expensive,
 
worntorn said:
Isn't 50 watts = 50 watts?


Watts = amps x volts
Volts = amps x ohms.

It would be 50 watts if the shunted 4.2 amp current goes through a 2.9 ohm resistance. If the impedance of the alternator and the reg is less than 2.9 ohm, then the power expended is less than 50 W. I just tried to measure the resistance across my alternator and it’s a fraction of an ohm.

The permanent magnet alternator is (within certain parameters) a constant current generator.

If your electrical load is leaving 4.2 amps unused and shunted across a low resistance, there won’t be much heat generated. It’s not like shorting the battery, where the current shoots up to hundreds of amps and burns the wires. The current the reg/rec is shunting won’t go much higher than 4.2 amps, because the alternator will only generate enough current for the load plus the 4.2 amps.
 
I've never paid more than £2 for a reg/rectifier
I just buy a Honda superdream one from an autojumble , the one on my Norton is 40 years old
They work single or three phase they are the shunt type
They don't go wrong
I’m extravagant. I bought new at £8.
 
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Watts = amps x volts
Volts = amps x ohms.

It would be 50 watts if the shunted 4.2 amp current goes through a 2.9 ohm resistance. If the impedance of the alternator and the reg is less than 2.9 ohm, then the power expended is less than 50 W. I just tried to measure the resistance across my alternator and it’s a fraction of an ohm.

The permanent magnet alternator is (within certain parameters) a constant current generator.

If your electrical load is leaving 4.2 amps unused and shunted across a low resistance, there won’t be much heat generated. It’s not like shorting the battery, where the current shoots up to hundreds of amps and burns the wires. The current the reg/rec is shunting won’t go much higher than 4.2 amps, because the alternator will only generate enough current for the load plus the 4.2 amps.
Anyway you look at it the shunt reg wasted power is going slow the bike down as much as a small leaf getting stuck under the fender brace.

Glen
 
I’m delighted that people who are so inclined, buy themselves a $160 series regulator. Shindengen look like a respectable company and people here say the reg works well.

I take issue with people (who, like me, are obviously no kind of electrical engineer) advising that it is imperative to use a series regulator, to prevent your stator going on fire, because that’s not true.
 
In Jean's test the (stationary) current draw was measured for the Podtronic "shorting" type regulator as well as the Zener rectifier, both of which were hooked up to a fully charged battery.
Jean did not mention current draw of the "open type" regulator such as Shindengen SH775. Does anyone know?

- Knut
 
In Jean's test the (stationary) current draw was measured for the Podtronic "shorting" type regulator as well as the Zener rectifier, both of which were hooked up to a fully charged battery.
Jean did not mention current draw of the "open type" regulator such as Shindengen SH775. Does anyone know?

- Knut
Jeandr did test it and said, "This regulator/rectifier is very “kind” to the alternator, it does NOT short out the stator windings so this means less stress on the alternator, the wires and all the connectors leading to the alternator."

About halfway down this page.


And Grant has some good explanation of it.

 
In Jean's test the (stationary) current draw was measured for the Podtronic "shorting" type regulator as well as the Zener rectifier, both of which were hooked up to a fully charged battery.
Jean did not mention current draw of the "open type" regulator such as Shindengen SH775. Does anyone know?

- Knut
Jeandr did test it and said, "This regulator/rectifier is very “kind” to the alternator, it does NOT short out the stator windings so this means less stress on the alternator, the wires and all the connectors leading to the alternator."

About halfway down this page.


And Grant has some good explanation of it.

I have found that with the SH775 my battery voltage is much more stable at cruising speeds (no discharge warning as the battery reaches peak voltage and the Podtronics regulator shunts current to ground) and the battery voltage after engine shutdown tends to show a better state of charge.

I have the Sparkbright Eclipse voltage monitoring LED shown here mounted between the turn indicator warning light and the headlight switch..

Shindengen (open type SCR) Regulator Installation MK II
 
Gortnipper, Dan1950,

Neither of you answered my question. I am not able to see where Jeandr tested the current draw for a non-running motor, as opposed to the other candidates. I'd appreciate an answer.

- Knut
 
Gortnipper, Dan1950,

Neither of you answered my question. I am not able to see where Jeandr tested the current draw for a non-running motor, as opposed to the other candidates. I'd appreciate an answer.

- Knut
I bought a Shindengen SH775 R/R for my carbed 08 Triumph T100 back when the price was around $100.00, later when my Thruxton needed a R/R I bought a Shindengen FH020AA for it. The Notton has a Podtronics R/R.
Today I tested them for current draw... Draw for the SH775 is 1.492 ma, draw for the FH020AA is .026 ma, draw for the Podtronics is .556. All tested with my cheap Harbor Freight multi meter on the 2000 micro amp scale.
 
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I bought a Shindengen SH775 R/R for my carbed 08 Triumph T100 back when the price was around $100.00, later when my Thruxton needed a R/R I bought a Shindengen FH020AA for it. The Notton has a Podtronics R/R.
Today I tested them for current draw... Draw for the SH775 is 1492 ma, draw for the FH020AA is 026 ma, draw for the Podtronics is 556. All tested with my cheap Harbor Freight multi meter on the 2000 scale.
Those numbers are terrible but I think the decimal point is off by 1000. See this: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/charging-system-leakage-current.31273/.

1492 ma = 1.492 amps. It's probably a 2000 microamp scale not a 2000 milliamp scale.
 
Can anyone provide a source for genuine Shindengen regulators. I have had no luck with what was recommended.
Thanks, Mike
 
Can anyone provide a source for genuine Shindengen regulators. I have had no luck with what was recommended.
Thanks, Mike
On his website he does say to check your spam folder as that’s often where his replies end up…
 
On his website he does say to check your spam folder as that’s often where his replies end up…
Nigel,
I sent a message to Shindengen and they replied that they don’t sell these regulators to anyone other than OEM manufacturers.Do you know where I should look for as far as a snowmobile or ATV brand that I could check. Thanks,
Mike
 
Nigel,
I sent a message to Shindengen and they replied that they don’t sell these regulators to anyone other than OEM manufacturers.Do you know where I should look for as far as a snowmobile or ATV brand that I could check. Thanks,
Mike
Which one are you looking for Mike, the SH775 ?
 
So if Shindengen only sells them to OEM manufacturers, then all of the units being sold by retailers must be fake?
Some might be good fakes that work for quite awhile.

As Triton Thrasher has found, even the cheapest Chinese regulator can do the job for a long time.
The failure rate on some cheap Chinese regs is pretty high though, according to Paul Hamon. For a short time he supplied cheap Chinese regs with the Alton, but a significant number failed.
Many years ago he switched to Podtronics and that solved his regulator failure problems. Not that they never fail, but it is rare.

The Podtronics are also entirely made in China, however they are made to Bob Kizer's specifications. Bob passed away some years ago. John Healey, of Coventry Spares, owns the company now.
The overall failure rate on the Podtronics has been very low. By the early 2000s when I first chatted with him, Bob had sold several thousand and only had 3 defective units.

Glen
 
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