Shindengen (open type SCR) Regulator Installation MK II

Triton Thrasher said:
Does this make sense?

Regulators/Rectifiers | Motorcycle Products | SHINDENGEN ELECTRIC MFG.CO.,LTD

Introductions to Shindengen Regulators/Rectifiers information.
www.shindengen.com www.shindengen.com

A Shindengen open-type reg appears to be twenty times the price of an EBay Honda shunt or short type. That’s a disadvantage to me!

There appears to be a limit to the current carrying capability of short types, in terms of heat dissipation and waste of engine power, so a 600W alternator may require the series or open type of reg.

I will say the £11 Chinese Honda short type works very well, long term on my 140W single phase Alton alternator. Some of you guys are on 180W 3-phase, I know, but that’s not a vast difference.
Click to expand...
I'm not seeing 20X the price. Maybe 1 1/2 times the price ($160 compared to $100) IF you are comparing genuine Shindengen products. The genuine Shindengen regulators have a SS [late on the back. The cheap $20 knock-offs are potted on the back side. If the eBay add does not show pictures of the back of the regulator, it is most likely NOT a genuine Shindengen regulator.

I paid $100 for my SH775 open type.
 
Last edited:
I’m often out of date and always approximate!

I haven’t looked at Shindengen open or short types prices for a long time.

The generic Chinese CBR600 shunt type that I use cost me £8 new, delivered.
 
YING said:
Dan,
Excuse the ignorance but what is the difference between an open type and a short type regulator and what is the advantage?It looks like a nice set-up
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
worntorn said:
Hi Mike


The stator didn't care if it was sending 100 watts to the battery for electrical loads or to ground through the Pod.
So I've moved on to worrying about other things:)

www.accessnorton.com

Stator heat test

I've done one half of this test. It is a simple test to determine if the Podtronics regulator creates a lot of extra heat in the stator. It's been suggested that it does and that this excess heat will cook the stator eventually. The first half of the test involved starting the cold bike (65...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
Click to expand...
Ah but therein lies the difference.

The open type actually regulates the output of the stator. It only sends as much current that is needed to keep the battery voltage at optimum. It basically shuts of the circuit. No current flow, no output. No parasitic HP loss either.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
I’m often out of date and always approximate!

I haven’t looked at Shindengen open or short types prices for a long time.

The generic Chinese CBR600 shunt type that I use cost me £8 new, delivered.
Click to expand...
You can get Chinese knock-off open types for about $25 with the connectors.
 
Dan1950 said:
I am also running a 3-phase stator. I have the Sparkbright Eclipse voltage monitor LED and it revealed a lot about the difference between "short" type (Podtronics in this case) and the "open" type Shendengen SH775.

With the "short type" regulator, when the battery voltage reached max at cruising speed the "short" to ground would result in momentary discharge (flashing red) warning from the LED.

This might last for several seconds before returning to the "green" charging indication. Probably not something to be overly concerned about, but it can be a bit disconcerting at times.

With the Shedengen SH775 open type regulator, aside from extended idling with the headlight on, I seldom see any discharge warnings. When I was running the Podtronics, as soon as the engine went to idle even without the head on, I would get the discharge warning.

With the SAH775 at idle with the headlight on I usually get the orange "OK" indication and only after extended idling with the headlight on do I get the flashing red discharge warning. The battery also seems to hold a better voltage between use.

It just seems to me that the SH775 creates a more stable charging map and the battery seems to benefit too. It is said to reduce heat in the stator and perhaps extend stator life especially if one is running LED lights that would result in more of the short to ground situation with the "short" type regulators.

I must have gotten lucky with the price when I bought my SH775, but even at the higher current prices, knowing what I know now, I would still opt for the "open" type SAH775.
Click to expand...
Was your Podtronics an old pre-Mosfet thyristor device? They were said to be slow-responding and hot running.
 
Please note; The Shindengen SH775 rectifier/regulator is for 3-phase alternators as is the FA20AA.
 
Last edited:
The
Triton Thrasher said:
So you can actually only get six of them with the rather pricy cable and plug, for the price of a series Shindengen.

I used individual spade connectors.
Click to expand...
The point is that the cheap knock off short types are $10 when converted to $ and the knock off series type are $23 with connectors.
 
Dan1950 said:
The

The point is that the cheap knock off short types are $10 when converted to $ and the knock off series type are $23 with connectors.
Click to expand...
Yeah sorry I misread.

I’m happy to report good service from the Chinese shunt type. And I’m not alone.

Right now I’d be wary of your $23 open type, unless I had good reports that I trusted.
 
Dan1950 said:
Ah but therein lies the difference.

The open type actually regulates the output of the stator. It only sends as much current that is needed to keep the battery voltage at optimum. It basically shuts of the circuit. No current flow, no output. No parasitic HP loss either.
Click to expand...

Shutting off the AC circuit of a permanent magnet alternator can cause voltage surges. Circuitry to deal with that, may be one reason the open type costs more.
 
With all the talk of "series", "open type", "short type", and "shunt", most aren't considering the business end of the charging system.

To me, what matters is does the battery stay fully charged at all reasonable engine speeds and electrical loads and is the power clean so as to not interfere with the ignition and any devices being used (cameras, microphones, intercoms, etc.)? The stator simply provides varying voltage AC current. The rectifier/regulator converts that into usable DC current at a stable voltage to run the bike/charge the battery.
 
Nothing wrong with the Shindengen other than price and the strong possibility of a fake unit.
Some of the fakes now have SS backs.
In my experience, there's nothing wrong with the POD either. The 26 year old unit works just fine with its 54 year old stator, battery stays charged.
The parasitic loss in a fully charged situation should be less with the Shindengen.
For example, if cruising at 70 mph and producing 120 watts the bike with Led and EI uses about 70 watts for ignition and lighting ( heated vest off, warm day)
That extra 50 watts shunts to ground with the POD.
One hp = 746 watts so that is approximately 1/15 of one hp that should be on tap with the Shindengen.
This would only be after the battery is fully charged.

The stock Zener system also seems to work well for a very long time.

Glen
 
Last edited:
Dan1950 said:
You are comparing the price of a cheap Chinese knock off to a genuine Shendengen regulator.
Click to expand...
Don’t buy one that spells it “Shendengen.” It’s not likely to be a genuine Shindengen.

As someone said earlier, the cheap regulator isn’t that much of a knock-off or fake. It’s just a cheap regulator that works well.
 
worntorn said:
Nothing wrong with the Shindengen other than price and the strong possibility of a fake unit.
Some of the fakes now have SS backs.
In my experience, there's nothing wrong with the POD either. The 26 year old unit works just fine with its 54 year old stator, battery stays charged.
The parasitic loss in a fully charged situation should be less with the Shindengen.
For example, if cruising at 70 mph and producing 120 watts the bike with Led and EI uses about 70 watts for ignition and lighting ( heated vest off, warm day)
That extra 50 watts shunts to ground with the POD.
One hp = 746 watts so that is approximately 1/15 of one hp that should be on tap with the Shindengen.
This would only be after the battery is fully charged.

Glen
Click to expand...
What is shunted in your example is something over 4 amps current, across the total voltage drop in the circuit (stator, transistors, wiring). If the voltage drop is less than 12 V, the power dissipated as heat is less than 50 W.
 
I've never paid more than £2 for a reg/rectifier
I just buy a Honda superdream one from an autojumble , the one on my Norton is 40 years old
They work single or three phase they are the shunt type
They don't go wrong
 

Similar threads

jaydee75
  • Locked
Jeans Voltage Regulator Installed, Performance (2015)
2
Replies
22
Views
3,638
maylar
maylar
Back
Top